Led looks nice. i am currently printing with the original electronics in the new setup.
I also like how you did the spool. my filament is constant breaking.
The filament spool holder is attached to the Z-axis which allows for the following advantages:
[ul]No tensile forces between printer frame and Z-axis
Filament form keeps retained
Less distance between spool and extruder[/ul]
If i want to do E3D upgrade, can i order only metal parts and print others parts or is there something what i need for that full sets? What is differents Bowden and direct hotend if i only buy metal parts? Which i should order? Thanks for answer.
Hi Potti5,
the original hotend is directly mounted to the extruder, without a bowden tube, so you’ll need the direct drive version. Using the “Metal Parts Only” variant is possible if you can re-use the heating cartridge from the original hotend (i.e. if it’s fixed with a grub screw instead of glue). But, depending on whether you already have those parts or not, you might like to order the fan (the E3D needs forced cooling) and the “Spare Fixings for v5” (set of screws), too.
The bracket for mounting both the hotend and the fan can be printed, you’ll find it on Thingiverse. Heater (see above) and also the thermistor can be used from the original hotend.
Cheers,
kuraasu
Ok. Thanks for help. Cartridge is fixed with a grub screw so i can use it. Fan i have obviously use resistor becouse it seems to be a 12V. Can i connect it directly on power supply(with resistor) or is there better way?
Just to be sure - is the size correct? Should be a 30 mm fan, not a 40 mm one like often found in computers.
Better yes, easier no.
You can build an extra circuit for the fan that switches it on depending on whether the hotend is heated or not. Or use an additional 12 V power supply (“wall wart” or similar). But the easiest solution is to hook it up to the 15 V supply including a resistor, as you suggest.
Connected directly to the power supply works well, the 12 volt fan will survive the over tension. An extra resistor in serie with the fan is actually better. Take a + 30 ohm resistor (2 watt for power dissipation).
Hi all !
I’m still very happy with my modded K8200 printer, so I would like to share my latest creation:
Fritz Hansen Egg Chair
Given the property rights, sharing the .STL files is probably not allowed, but please have a look at the Frits Hansen website, you’ll find lots of their 3D models. The resolution is rather rough but after printing nevertheless the result is satisfactory.
Browse to the Fritz Hansen website and click ‘for professionals’ and ‘3D & tools’ or use the following link:
http://www.fritzhansen.com/en/fritz-hansen/For-Professionals/3D-tools
About your improvements: they are impressive. I agree the K8200 is excellent for further tweaking and continued development by the user community.
I have been using the device now for almost one week and I am “hungry” and eager for all the hints and tips from you people.
What I was wondering about your improvements: your z-axis improvements will without any doubt improve the quality/stability of the prints. Using the standard lead screw and motor contruction I notice irregularities in the z-direction that without any doubt are caused by the z-axis movement.
However, using a 13mm trapezoid lead screw will lower the z-resolution, is’nt it? After all, the number of steps per revolution remains the same, but the movement in one revolution will increase by using a 13 mm trapezoid.
Or am I mistaken?
I’d welcome your clarification.
Hi majapinca,
you are right, the resolution on the Z axis will be lower with a trapezoidal rod. However, you actually don’t need that much resolution, so for printing it’s still ok.
The motors used in the K8200 have 200 steps per revolution. Since the drivers (A4988) are set to their maximum in terms of microstepping, x16, the firmware actually needs to send 3200 steps to the driver for one full turn of the motor. In case of the Z axis, both values are of interest for calculating the resolution: theoretically, each (micro)step will move the axis by 1/2560th of a mm, or ca. 0.4 micron, with the default M8 rod. However, due to a firmware setting it’s best to calculate the minimum layer height increment from the fullsteps resolution, which is 6.25 micron.
Usual trapezoidal rods have 1.5 mm pitch (TR8) or 2, 3, or 4 mm (TR10 and above). For these rods, the min layer height is between 7.5 and 20 micron. If you want to print at lower heights, you should indeed select a matching rod with very low pitch, apart from other mechanical changes that may be indicated in such a case. Otherwise, you’ll be fine with any of the standard pitch TR rods.
Cheers,
kuraasu
Thanks for your quick response Kuraasu! You’re right.
Brilliant job, fitchie. I am also thinking about upgrading to E3D hotend. What would be your suggestions for nozzle and filament sizes? Thanks
I’m using the original 3 mm filament and an additional E3D 0,25 mm nozzle. Print speed is rather slow, but the quality is superior.
Hi all !
It is again a while ago, but no news is good news.
Recently I decided to assemble a second K8200 to ease the tasks of the first one.
Planned upgrades during the building process:
[ul]All original aluminium parts are anodised to prevent oxidation
E3D version 6 hotend to use with 1,75 mm filament
Improved Z-axis holder to eliminate Z-axis wobble
Flex coupling with trapezoidal lead screw
Micrometer adjustment for Z-axis
150 Watt power supply
Improved cabling
Heat shrinks for stepper motor drivers[/ul]
But first things first, today I started the construction of the X-carriage:
And here is the improved Z-axis holder with flex coupling and trapezoidal lead screw:
Sources:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:234162
Further updates will appear regularly the upcoming days…
Hello, fitchie,
Could you please share the .stl file for the fan duct? Thanks
And in the meantime, the Z-axis with micrometer adjustment is also completed:
More in detail:
Yesterday I received my E3D order:
[ul]E3D V6 for 1,75 mm filament
0,25 & 0,35 mm spare nozzles
Kuraasu’s adapter to mount the hotend ont he K8200
[/ul]
In order to avoid cable clutter, I used some Molex plugs.
So here is the assembled hotend:
Hello, fitchie,
I am having some issues with the e3d-v6, could you drop me a line at linas@santavilte.eu, so I could ask you few questions? Thanks