Svdv : have you looked on the wiki? it have a fairly strait up simple page for this. I could make something for this but why when there is good pages for it already 
Link : http://www.k8xxx-3dprinters.crimed.be/w/index.php?title=Installing_a_reprap.me_MK3_heated_bed
// Marlark
For anyone that is interested : Im ordering home a set of new beds for anyone that would like one. Putting in the order for it tomorrow with my Contact.
// Marlark
@Marlark
I studied the wiki indeed, but still have a many questions about electronics, wiring and soldering. The MK3 connections are not similar to your heatbed.
Maybe I may ask you some direct questions by e-mail? That’s easier for me than this forum…
Thanks
Actualy it is the same just different locations. Shure you have my email address. It is just to ask on and i will defenetly awnser them, Ill sit down and do a Picture step by step document for the things i use. 
I send you an email Marlark, do you get it?
Nice work that you did 
Yupp saw it. I have been away today but there will be a return mail to you in an hour or 2
Did you already order? Still possible to joint?
thanks
[quote=“raby”]Here is the way it must be wired. check if everything is OK.
[/quote]
Where do you get the green PCB part? If you were using a 12V heated bed, and provided you had upgraded the power supply on the printer from a 150W to a 400W one, could you power the bed directly from that connection on the Arduino board?
Thank you.
[quote=“DanielDC88”]could you power the bed directly from that connection on the Arduino board?
[/quote]Absolutely not. A power expander is mandatory.
You can get one on the Reprap.me website or build one yourself (have a look at the [color=#408040]Wiki [/color]for the parts and layout).
[quote=“raby”][quote=“DanielDC88”]could you power the bed directly from that connection on the Arduino board?
[/quote]Absolutely not. A power expander is mandatory.
You can get one on the Reprap.me website or build one yourself (have a look at the [color=#408040]Wiki [/color]for the parts and layout).[/quote]
Thank you.
I do not wish to use an external; power supply. Instead I would like to replace the existing one with one of a higher power output. Possibly one with 12V and 24V out (for the Arduino and heated bed respectively). Do you know where I might get one?
I ordered this one for the heatbed from Marlark: http://www.koningenhartman.nl/nl/webshop/industrie/industriele-voedingen/ac-dc-industriele-voedingen/mean-well-ac-dc-psu-rsp-320-15-enclosed-15v-214a It has almost the same size as the Vertex PSU (MeanWell RS-150-15). Unfortunately the delivery time is about a month.
Just got it. Dimensions: 215 x 115 x 30 mm:
Good morning everyone
I just wanted to give some information on that for those that want a heatbed it will be possible to get the custom sized one again very soon. The order is sent for 100 of them and i have payed them so just waiting for them to be made and sent to Sweden.
// Marlark
Cool, thanks for the update!!!
I have been discussing these with others online and rather than getting a new power supply, it would be much easier to get a custom heated bed that runs at mains voltage. Then you just need a solid-state relay which costs about €5 to control it. These will also be more efficient since it’s not using a transformer.
DanielDC88 : The bed can use 12V 15V and 24V layout. However your gonna need todo 2 things regardless eather upgrade the main 15V PSU sins the original one is to weak. Or add an additional 12, 15 or 24V PSU. There are those that do use a upgraded 15V main PSU with this bed and it works just as good as using a additional one.
I am not saying that you can run the one you ordered on mains voltage. I am saying it would be better to get one that runs on mains voltage because you would not need to get an expensive, inefficient and heavy power supply. All you need is a €5 solid-state relay. Keenovo already sell a 220V 700W heated mat for 350x350mm build platforms, so a 300W would be fine for the Vertex. People vouch for them too.
They already sell one that would be suitable: ebay.com/itm/20-X-20cm-400W- … 3f33a84551
Ahh now i do understand what your thinking on. Yes using a SSR on the main 220-230V is one way of doing it however you have to remember that it is more then likly eating more Power over time that way and you get main Power inside the printer. Last i looked on that also is that it takes longer time to heat and the hot plate is thicker then a alu plate or a silicone plate. But it is one way that works also. Personaly i Think that is more a Quick fix from the past. I have tried it Before so i know where i stand on the subject so im not gonna say this or that more then. Defenetly do try it.
As i usualy say … It is fun trying things out and gaining experiense that way. So do try it out and give feedback on the solution. Both pro’s and con’s.
Myself i use a additional 24V PSU on the config i have but that is because i thought i might use it for future 24V needs for something else. I have been thinking on looking on a low Power SSR maybe instead of using the reprap PE. How that will work when i find a sutable SSR ill get back to then.
// Marlark
That silicone plate looks interesting thow in term of thickness considering it is a 220-230V one.
Been considering something like this instead of the PE
[quote=“Marlark”]Been considering something like this instead of the PE
This one is a DC - DC model. You need a DC - AC model to switch the bed.
