I am using my K8200 for approx 1 month now, and am slowly optimizing my 3d prints.
Things are visually looking better but I am now trying to get the measurements right, as I want to print parts.
Does any one know or have experience with what print resolutions can be reached, with both stock and E3D hot ends ?
I am currently reaching an accuracy of +0.1 - +0.2 mm on my outer perimeters, and -0.5 mm on my inner perimeters.
I have calibrated my extruder (and adjusted the default extruding factor in slicer back to 1.0), autotuned hotend heater and have done some experimenting with my PLA printing temperature as I have the feeling that I am overextruding.
My circles are also not 100% round by deviate a ±0.1-0.2 mm in diameter.
Note: that I am still using a stock 8200 machine (only with some software tweaks).
Do I want to much ? or is there still room for improvement ?
I have an accuracy of .1 mm on a fairly standerd K8200. No modification to the X and Y axis. On the Z axis I changed the motor mount, replaced the existing M8 rod with a new one and added a flexible coupler. Am using Cura at a print speed of 20 mm/s.
I have a flexible coupler as well, and use repetier with 50 mm/s print speed.
Is your 0.1 mm deviation constant ? For both small and large objects ?
I noticed that my outer dimensions are mostly quite accurate (as they are larger) but inside they tend to deviate more.
If I print smaller features like 3 mm diameter studs in a larger print, they turnout much larger 3,5 mm.
What jerk value did you set for X and Y ?
At that speed setting the moving mass of the bed will have a big influence on accuracy.
That is why i changed the X/Y belts for GT2 2mm and 16 teeth pulleys.
I haven’t fine tuned the precision right now, but it is already way better than with the original belt drives.
edit :
I just printed a 50mm hollow cube with 1mm wall and 0.6mm nozzle.
Outer dimensions are quite perfect (just 0.1mm maximum difference)
Inner dimensions are about 0.3mm off, (wall thickness is actually printed about 1.3mm) but i think that is caused by the big nozzle i chose.
Thanks for the feedback.
My XY Jerk is set to 10 mm/sec
Is this OK, or do you suggest a different setting ?
What kind of GT belt and pulleys are standard ?
You mentioned that you are using a 0.6 mm nozzle, on a E3D ?
How does the nozzle size compare to accuracy ?
Are walls always (N * nozzle size) + error margin (fi. 0.1 mm) ? (when they are thin offcourse ?)
[quote=“RobinS”]Thanks for the feedback.
My XY Jerk is set to 10 mm/sec
Is this OK, or do you suggest a different setting ?
What kind of GT belt and pulleys are standard ?
You mentioned that you are using a 0.6 mm nozzle, on a E3D ?
How does the nozzle size compare to accuracy ?
Are walls always (N * nozzle size) + error margin (fi. 0.1 mm) ? (when they are thin offcourse ?)[/quote]
I have all available nozzle sizes for my E3D v6 here.
Normally i print with 0.4 or 0.35 nozzle.
For bigger parts or flex i go with at least 0.4.
If i choose N*nozzle size the wall width is pretty close to what it should be.
But that depends on many factors, as layer height, speed, temp and filament.
If you need really exact wall width you have to fiddle around a bit, depending on the part printed.
I used GT2 2mm belts (6mm width) and 16 tooth pulleys for my x and y axes.
That increased my steps/mm from 64 (stock t5 belt) to 100 (gt2 2mm belt)
I fond it to give the bed more smoothness, precision and torque.
I can now print with 15 or even 20mm yerk (for smaller parts).
10mm/s² is a good setting for the t5 belts. I used that too before.
I created an accuracy print test to test and tweak my printers settings for parts.
Sofar I am not very pleased with the results as the general accuracy is ±0.5 mm, and my print is getting strings, but has smooth surfaces.
Tweaking the extruder flow and or temperature will improve the accuracy but will put holes in the surfaces.
I blame my older PLA as it also breaks sometime, so will test with others as well.
So if you like to print something else than the owl ; )
Mods to printer: 10mm trapezoidal Z-axis and Alu heatsink with fan fitted to hotend in stead of the teflon tube. ( Design can be found here thingiverse.com/thing:186014 )
[quote=“sceptic”]Ok, after some tricks an tweaks I’m happy with the results.
Owl scale 0,4 layer 0,20 print time 58 min. with slicer.
Some images dropbox.com/s/30n3ukbwm05tf … 5.jpg?dl=0 dropbox.com/s/cuouja01pqgv5 … 6.jpg?dl=0 dropbox.com/s/cve52dzxvj175 … 0.jpg?dl=0
Stock K8200 printer with stock extruder. Z-ax motormount. On the X and Y-ax some belt tensioners. A flexcoupler and some anti vibration dampers.[/quote]
Wow… do you have pictures of your printer? Im curious to see the changed you did.
Is it possible for you to share your settings please? Do you use slicer or curaengine???
[quote=“Bigskill”]
Wow… do you have pictures of your printer? Im curious to see the changed you did.
Is it possible for you to share your settings please? Do you use slicer or curaengine???[/quote]
[quote=“sceptic”][quote=“Bigskill”]
Wow… do you have pictures of your printer? Im curious to see the changed you did.
Is it possible for you to share your settings please? Do you use slicer or curaengine???[/quote]
