Using the Velleman K8200 without extruder and heatbed

Hello,

I’ve purchased a Velleman K8200 about 4 Weeks ago. I don’t need the printer itself, but what i need are the movement abilities.
So I’d like to ask if there are possibilites to drive the printer without mounting and connecting the Extruder as well as the headbed?
I’ve already built the K8200 as far as i need it. After installing the firmware and Repetierhost for K8200 I’m able to connect to printer.
Now if I want to use the manual controle funktion and press the home buttons (little house), the motors move perfectly fine into the start positions.
BUT!!! If i try to move them by using the arrows, it sends me an error message immediately:
[color=#0000FF]Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting): [/color]
Is this error relate to the missing components? What can i do to fix it ?

Thank you for your help

Kind regards
Robske94

PS: Sorry for the mistakes I’m from a foreign country:)

I am not 100% sure but I believe your problem is it won’t move without the thermistors connected to the control board it is a safety measure I believe. I could be wrong here, I think you can fix this in marlin. However I couldn’t tell you hows as I am new to these machines. Help can be slow on this forum so hang tight.

good luck

Thank you for your answer.

If it’s right what he says:

I’ve downloaded the repetier-host software made especially for the k8200 from the official website. Is it still possible to edit marlin firmware in arduino for example,
and load this onto my motherboard? And which Settings do I have to change to reach my goals.

kind regards

Yes, you can freely change the “Velleman” Marlin firmware with arduino.
Just make sure to use arduino Version 1.0.6, as the higher versions do not work with this “old” marlin.

I think you will need to disable the over/under temp protection in marlin to get the motors moving without Hotend.
The firmware normally prevents any motion and extrusion if the hotend doesn’t report reasonable temps.
What you can also try is, mount the hotend thermistor and try “printing” at “room temp” (i.e. extruder temp set to your current room temp)

Okay, I tried my best but couldn’t find anything like over/unter temp protection…

I’ve found cases like: setTargetedHotend, setTargetBed and functions from the menu like autotemp_min/autotemp_max=code_value();

I’ve downloaded the Marlin v1 from Velleman.eu…

If I would mount the hotend, were do i have to adjust the settings for printing at room temp?

Thank you really much for your help!

kind regards

These are the lines in configuration.h that set the minimal and maximal teperatures for the heaters:

[code]
// The minimal temperature defines the temperature below which the heater will not be enabled It is used
// to check that the wiring to the thermistor is not broken.
// Otherwise this would lead to the heater being powered on all the time.
#define HEATER_0_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_1_MINTEMP 5
#define HEATER_2_MINTEMP 5
#define BED_MINTEMP 5

// When temperature exceeds max temp, your heater will be switched off.
// This feature exists to protect your hotend from overheating accidentally, but NOT from thermistor short/failure!
// You should use MINTEMP for thermistor short/failure protection.
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_1_MAXTEMP 275
#define HEATER_2_MAXTEMP 275
#define BED_MAXTEMP 150[/code]

btw. Did you try to “dry print” with g-code generated by slic3r or curaengine?
Moving the axes should normally work without heaters on.
You just have to make sure ther are NO temp commands in the g-code.

Yes I did. I load in the preset fannozzel, sliced it and even delted the temp G-Code and enabled dry printing (bzw. den Trockenlauf). Thats what happens: All axes drive into theire home positions. After this is done the printer stopps and Spams this message (printer stopped due to errors etc.) inbetween sometimes there is a log like “prints layer 5 of 115”.

If I press on of the arrows nothing happens only the errormessage shows up down in the log. I don’t get it because everything works fine when it comes to drive intoo the home position…

found the code lines in the Marlin.ino. I’ll try later if that will work. If I want to upload the new marlin.ino which board should be selcted because the velleman k8200 board is missing in this list…

thank you for your help.

[quote=“robske94”]Yes I did. I load in the preset fannozzel, sliced it and even delted the temp G-Code and enabled dry printing (bzw. den Trockenlauf). Thats what happens: All axes drive into theire home positions. After this is done the printer stopps and Spams this message (printer stopped due to errors etc.) inbetween sometimes there is a log like “prints layer 5 of 115”.
[/quote]
The dry run (Trockenlauf) option works only when using the repetier firmware. Marlin does not support that.

[quote]If I press on of the arrows nothing happens only the errormessage shows up down in the log. I don’t get it because everything works fine when it comes to drive intoo the home position…

found the code lines in the Marlin.ino. I’ll try later if that will work. If I want to upload the new marlin.ino which board should be selcted because the velleman k8200 board is missing in this list…

thank you for your help.[/quote]

That sounds like you run into the endstops.
Which firmware version do you use?
The V2 and later disable the endstops during print, to prevent such errors.

If you can’t get it to run, post a link to the gcode, and i’ll give it a try on my machine.

FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:http://www.k8200.com/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:K8200 EXTRUDER_COUNT:1

echo:T?Invalid Extruder

Thats the message i recive when i connect the printer so i think I’m using Marlin V1^^
How can I upgrade to V2?
You can donwload the Data here : k8200.eu/downloads/files/dow … le.stl.zip

The reported Firmware name string is misleading. It’s hardcoded and doesn’t change between versions, as long as you don’t manually edit it.

If you never downloaded and flashed a different firmware, you pobably use V1.1.
You can get the later versions from the velleman download site.

okey I’ve found Marlin V2 with VM8201 Support on K8200.eu. How do I flash it with arduino on my board? Can’t find the Velleman board in the list…

I just sliced the nozzle and … douh!
If completely forgot that the slicer produces extrusion commands.

If i understand you right, you just want axis movement, right?
Then you can generate the g-code by hand.

Example :

G28 X0 Y0 F250; home x,y
G28 Z0; home z
G0 Z10
G0 X75 Y75
G0 X125 Y75
G0 X125 Y125
G0 X75 Y125
G0 X75 Y75

will “move” a 50mm square in the middle of the heatbed.

If you slice the g-code you would have to manually remove all E… commands to prevent extrusion.

What do you want to use the printer for?
As a “cnc” ?
Then maybe use a different g-code generator (made for cnc machining), that fits your needs better.

cheers,

Christian

At first, make sure you use arduino 1.0.6. Never versions won’t work!
You must choose Arduino Mega or Mega 2560.
Make sure the Jprog jumper is set while flashing.
Also make sure the printer is fully powered during flash. Only USB connection for power won’t work.

Same Problem with the handwirtten g-code. I stated the Job, axes drove into home Position, then:

5 Times: Printer stopped due to errors. Fix the error and use M999 to restart. (Temperature is reset. Set it after restarting)

I want to mount a hall-sensor instead the extruder for automatic magnetic field messuring just need the simple movements of the axes for some simple progamms. Can you please tell me how to Flash the V2 firmware? Maybe this will work.

Thank you so much for your time !!!

Thank you !

What’s the Jprog Jumper? And how can i set it ?

Here is the Jprog jumper shown. (the 2 pins shorted by the screwdriver)

I would suggest to use a jumper plug or some wire instead of a screwdriver.
If the connection comes loose during flash you can possibly ruin the bootloader.
That would require reflashing the bootloader with a programmer device.

But don’t be frightened, i never had such issue anytime.

should there be a Picture ? Can’t see one sorry…

sorry, i messed up the link

Would it be enough if I would just soldering a wire between the to Pins ? to be safe ?

You can do that, but i wouldn’t recommend it. It’s hard to revert.
I just used a small jumper plug from an old 3.5" HDD i had lying around:

Screwdriver will also work. Just make sure it stays connected.