I did use a black and red permanent marker to put dots on each wire.
Example:
[ul]heater cartride : .
thermistor : …
extruder motor red wire : …
extruder motor black wire : [color=#FF0000].[/color]
extruder motor green wire : [color=#FF0000]…[/color]
extruder motor blue wire : [color=#FF0000]…[/color][/ul][/quote]
OK Got it - I saw dots here and there, but tucked away so didn’t know you had an actual reference going! Very cool!
How did you managed to run 2 z-motors on your K8200? [quote=“Barnabybear”][quote]Something I did notice is that it’s still a little wobbly at the top. Do you use any kind of top mount/brass?[/quote]
Put the motor at the top it works better for so many reasons (just rearange the standard parts).
[/quote]
You can run two motors on the Z axis by wiring them in parallel. You can either make a Y cable or simply solder the motor wires together. Just connect the same color wires from each motor together and then to the controller board as normal. Some 3D print controller boards even have a pair of motor connectors for the Z axis output that are connected in parallel.
In this arrangement, both motors are driven off of a single stepper driver circuit. This will generally work OK because the motors are each moving only half of the physical load.
[quote=“Dr. Vegetable”]You can run two motors on the Z axis by wiring them in parallel. You can either make a Y cable or simply solder the motor wires together. Just connect the same color wires from each motor together and then to the controller board as normal. Some 3D print controller boards even have a pair of motor connectors for the Z axis output that are connected in parallel.
In this arrangement, both motors are driven off of a single stepper driver circuit. This will generally work OK because the motors are each moving only half of the physical load.[/quote]
O.k. i try that. In the manual the stepper-value must be set to 0.425 vdc. Is this enough for the 2 motors?
I usually set all my driver reference voltages to 0.55v, but they do get hot.
(For the record, I am not running two Z axis motors on my K8200, but my first RepRap had them.)
I saw a dual z-axe mount on youtube on witch one had a motor on the left. The richt z-spindel was connected by a 2G-belt to the left spindel. So they turn on one motor totether.
I do think a 2-motor z-axe system is much more elegent.
b.t.w.
Resenty i did fry my controllerboard when i made a new printbed of 4 mm thick aluminium that does not bent. I placed the heatbed right ontop of the aluminium plate without the karton plat between them. I did not realise that the printer still was on so it didn’t do anyting anymore.
So the lesson is: Your thermistor can fry your controllerboard if shorted.
Now i did rout the aleminium plate 1,5 mm away where the thermistor is on the heatbed and with the carton plate i have about 2 mm space between the thermistor and the aluminium plate.
So you can imagine that i check every connection twice before turning the printer on again.
So if you ask yourself why i ask some questions twice is becauce i rather do that then fry someting again.
I’m glad i did manage to get the Extra Large Full Graphics Smart Controller working.
I also installed the E3D v6 with the E3D Titan.
I’m now rewiring all cables.
I must test everything ofcaurce.
If somewone can answer my questin on how to connect a thermocouple to my controllercard i would be very happy. It consist of a External thermocouple board & Thermocouple K welded tip (glass fiber).
see [size=120]https://reprapworld.com/products/extruder/temperature_control/thermocouple_k_welded_tip_glass_fiber/[/size] & [size=120]https://reprapworld.com/products/external_thermocouple_board_v1_0/[/size] for more info.
Thank you all.
Hi @VenHeelun,
In regard to the below, how did you mount the E3D Titan onto your frame? Do you have pictures and STL files if you made any additional brackets?
[quote=“VenHeelun”]
I also installed the E3D v6 with the E3D Titan.[/quote]
Thanks,
Neil.
The E3D Titan comes with a 3D printed motor mount.
One side has 2 rows of holes to mount the extruder somewhere on your printer.
In front of the motor is the drivegear for the fillament.
The whole extruder is smaller then the motor it self.
To stenghten the attachment-holes i placed 2 aluminium strips on top & below the strip (with the 3 holes) so it doesn’t bent when titening the screws to the frame.
This is not the final version. Because i cannot print at the moment i cannot print any holders.
When the printer is running correctly i’m planning to make the printer nicer.
b.t.w. The fan that comes with the K8200 uses 100mA. To my knowledge that’s the maximum the controllerboard can handle. I use 2 noctua fans that use each 50mA. so i can use 2 fans, one on the left & one on the right. I must print some fanducts for them. I like the Ultimaker style fanducts.
[quote=“NW27”]Hi @VenHeelun,
In regard to the below, how did you mount the E3D Titan onto your frame? Do you have pictures and STL files if you made any additional brackets?
[quote=“VenHeelun”]
I also installed the E3D v6 with the E3D Titan.[/quote]
Thanks,
Neil.[/quote]
Hey Fitchie, I really like your K8200 and I think that’s one of the reasons that helped me to modify mine! How did you calculate the new steps/mm for the extruder when you changed the hobbed bolt? Thank you 
I was also fooled by the looks of it. Very nice mods, this one looks better than the original. BTW, I’m also a proud owner of K8200 and I’m lovin’ it!
Hey Fitchie, I really like your K8200 and I think that’s one of the reasons that helped me to modify mine! How did you calculate the new steps/mm for the extruder when you view the phen375 results changed the hobbed bolt? Thank you
Is there any shot you have any more points of interest on the plexiglass, for example, size or measurements? I’m attempting to source a comparative one in the UK
Hi Fitchie and all other readers!
I really like the modifications you have done on your K8200 printer. It looks amazing while functioning very well, printing high quality models and all.
I am building myself a K8200 printer as well soon. Even though i had written down a lot of tricks and modifications possible from this post, I still have a lot to learn. Can you guys give me any advice or top tips in building the K8200 printer? It will be a great help to my progress. Really appreciate it.
Thanks 
Welcome!
My advice to the first-time K8200 builder:
1.) Get a borosilicate glass plate to top your heat bed. The flat (planar) build surface will save you a lot of heartache!
2.) The adjustment screw for the Z-axis limit switch is a bit flimsy. You will want to modify this to be more solid, for better repeatability.
3.) I put four small compression springs over the support screws for the bed, and only installed one thumbwheel at each corner. This makes bed leveling easier, as you don’t need to tighten the lower thumbwheel against the upper one.
4.) If you have a good supply of stranded wire, you might consider using it in place of the ribbon cable provided in the kit, although this is not strictly necessary.
Take your time building it, and make sure everything is square before you tighten any bolts.
Those are the most important enhancements during your initial build.
One last piece of advice: Eventually you will want to upgrade the extruder. Many folks here, myself included, swear by the E3D extruder, but fitting one onto your K8200 is a major project. If/when you do, you will probably find it best to switch to using 1.75mm filament instead of the 3mm stuff you are using now. So don’t buy too much 3mm filament right away!
Enjoy the build, and happy printing!
When setting the reference voltage for the stepper drivers.
Set them to 0.55 instead of 0.425 in the manual.
Do not go over 0.6 as this will cause them to over heat and do crazy things.
Use the software from this link version 0.95F This has the drivers and ini files in it so you can skip that part of the manual.
https://www.vellemanusa.com/downloads/files/downloads/setup_repetierhost_k8200_0_95f.zip
Thank you so much Dr_Vegetable and Wrong_Way. Your help is very much appreciated. I’ll be sure to upload my assembled printer here once it is ready soon.
Hopefully i can also ask you guys some more questions along the way.
Thanks again 
I found some old pictures of the two modifications I mentioned.
Z-Axis Limit Switch Actuator:
Bed Springs:
Have fun building!
When setting the reference voltage for the stepper drivers.
Set them to 0.55 instead of 0.425 in the manual.
Thanks for the terrific thread. I went through it once and be coming back more than once for more detailed infos.
In your early posts you’ve posted a project that includes all “improvements” on your printer:
There I found two parts for the fan (v5-10.stl and v5-14clip.stl). In your later images I can see that you have a different part to direct the air flow:
Two questions:
(1) is it better than the one of v5-10?
(2) Can you post the stl files to it as well?
I have the k8200 printer with the only Z-Axis upgrade (k8203?)
Cheers
Arturas
i want to have this in my house
