Hey, I have a roll of ABS, 2.93 mm diameter on average. I have installed repetier 1.06, however there are no configuration files for ABS in that new version. Anybody got a decent config for abs? I don’t mind changing temperatures or such. I have a 110 degrees bed and 245 extruder.
Which slicer do you use ? curaengine or slic3r?
If you use the latter you can simply import the Velleman settings from their repetier version.
(i mostly use cura engine , it’s way faster)
cheers,
Christian
I haven’t used curaengine yet, what kind of settings do I need for it?
You can use on of mine for a start:
cura engine profile pla 0.4mm E3d v6: dropbox.com/s/0dv0zr9w2dfbu … 6.rcp?dl=0
cura engine setting pla filament blue: dropbox.com/s/pi39vp4e8niht … e.rcf?dl=0
You’ll have to change nozzle diameter, retract and your temp settings for using the stock hotend, as i use an E3D v6.
cheers,
Christian
Does that work for ABS as well?
Yep! Just set the right temp and diameter in the filament profile.
You can make a different profile for every type of filament you use.
Just save it under another name.
cheers,
Christian
I just bought a Velleman k8200 and I have been reading a lot of posts in here.
I have a question for you Christian, you say that you use the E3D v6 hotend. Would that be an upgrade worth doing?
So far I have only printet PLA, takes forever to heat up the heatbed for ABS. I plan to use an extra PSU (24V 4.5 A right here next to me, waiting to get connected)
But did the hotend give you a better printresult, or what made you upgrade?
Thanks
Peter
[quote=“EmracingDK”]I just bought a Velleman k8200 and I have been reading a lot of posts in here.
I have a question for you Christian, you say that you use the E3D v6 hotend. Would that be an upgrade worth doing?
So far I have only printet PLA, takes forever to heat up the heatbed for ABS. I plan to use an extra PSU (24V 4.5 A right here next to me, waiting to get connected)
But did the hotend give you a better printresult, or what made you upgrade?
Thanks
Peter[/quote]
Yes, it’s absolutely with the effort to upgrade to an E3D hotend.
The print quality is much better (almost no blobs or stringing) and you can print higher temp materials, as it is all metal.
Additionally you get a wide range of available nozzle sizes, letting you chose smaller ones for finer nad bigger ones for mora coarse parts.
I also swapped my hotend thermistor for a thermocouple type-K for better temp reading stability and range (for high temp filaments),
but this is not a requirement.
Using a 24V supply for the hotend is also a good idea.
I suggest you to put a 3mm cork plate under the PCB for heat insulation too, and a glass plate with thermal compound on top of the heatbed PCB.
This will make heating faster and more evenly spread.
For printing flex (works also for non flex) maybe look at my hotend modified mount : thingiverse.com/thing:548827
cheers,
Christian
Are you using two PSU for your printer?
It´s clear to me that the printer needs more power, but I don’t want to destroy the print or motors.
Peter
[quote=“EmracingDK”]Are you using two PSU for your printer?
It´s clear to me that the printer needs more power, but I don’t want to destroy the print or motors.
Peter[/quote]
Yes, i use a second 24V power supply for the heatbed.
The stock heatbed draws about 5 Amps at 24V, so i used a 24V 5A supply from MeanWell (Notebook style) and switched
it over a small relay circuit.
cheers,
Christian
Yes, indeed!
Ichbinsnur,
The parts you have to print for that hot end can it be printed in PLA or do you have to use ABS?
[quote=“Wrong Way”]Ichbinsnur,
The parts you have to print for that hot end can it be printed in PLA or do you have to use ABS?[/quote]
PLA is just fine, mine are also from PLA. Temp stability is no issue, cause the hotend is not even getting warm at the mounting side.
It is likely preferrable to use PLA cause it doesn’t wear as much as ABS when the filament slides through.
cheers,
Christian
Thanks
I think I have found a source for the USA and after seeing how well the K8400 does with a smaller nozzle I think I want to try it on the K8200.
[quote=“Wrong Way”]Thanks
I think I have found a source for the USA and after seeing how well the K8400 does with a smaller nozzle I think I want to try it on the K8200.[/quote]
I think it is more the better design of the hotend that makes the difference.
Using the E3D i get nice prints even with 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzles.
Thanks Christian, I am printing the parts right now 
I bought this Velleman K8200 just to get familiar with 3D printing, and plan to build a Mendel90 with 30x30 heatbed and 2 hotends.
But I think I will stick with the Velleman for a while and optimize it a bit. I mean even with the basic setup, it can create some pretty ok prints.
The part from reprap.me will that work right out of the box? Looking at it, the 24 V PSU should be connected to the power in, and the existing cable from the controller should be connected to signal in, and POWER OUT should be connected to the heatbed.
Almost looks to simple.
I have never bought something from reprap.me, but can see that the company is Danish (like me) so I guess they are ok…
Another question, should I buy heatsinks for the drivers, they seem to run hot?
Peter
[quote=“EmracingDK”]Thanks Christian, I am printing the parts right now
I bought this Velleman K8200 just to get familiar with 3D printing, and plan to build a Mendel90 with 30x30 heatbed and 2 hotends.
But I think I will stick with the Velleman for a while and optimize it a bit. I mean even with the basic setup, it can create some pretty ok prints.
The part from reprap.me will that work right out of the box? Looking at it, the 24 V PSU should be connected to the power in, and the existing cable from the controller should be connected to signal in, and POWER OUT should be connected to the heatbed.
Almost looks to simple.
I have never bought something from reprap.me, but can see that the company is Danish (like me) so I guess they are ok…
Another question, should I buy heatsinks for the drivers, they seem to run hot?
Peter[/quote]
Hey, same reason why i bought mine 
I think it’s a really nice and open (modifyable) design.
The part you mention, is it some kind of “power expander”? (perhaps post a link)
Heatsinks for the drivers are no bad idea. I glued some on mine too.
The problem is, the chips have their thermal pad on the bottom side.
So glueing a heatsink on top will help a lot, but not as much as it should.
So normally the PCB should cool them through a copper plane, which unfortunately is not present in the pololu style ones.
I Have made raby’s housing with a 40mm fan, now everything is protected and also keeps nice and cool.
Have a look here : thingiverse.com/make:119334
cheers,
Christian
I’ve bought my MK3 heated bed from reprap.me. They’re reliable. I made the power expander myself (very easy, needs only a few components : you can have a look here).
[quote=“EmracingDK”]The part from reprap.me will that work right out of the box? Looking at it, the 24 V PSU should be connected to the power in, and the existing cable from the controller should be connected to signal in, and POWER OUT should be connected to the heatbed.
Almost looks to simple. [/quote]
Actually it is that simple
I’ve also installed heatsinks on the drivers to be on the safe side but without them (but with the 40mm fan blowing on them) I’ve never had any problem.
Jack
[quote=“raby”]I’ve bought my MK3 heated bed from reprap.me. They’re reliable. I made the power expander myself (very easy, needs only a few components : you can have a look here).
[quote=“EmracingDK”]The part from reprap.me will that work right out of the box? Looking at it, the 24 V PSU should be connected to the power in, and the existing cable from the controller should be connected to signal in, and POWER OUT should be connected to the heatbed.
Almost looks to simple. [/quote]
Actually it is that simple
I’ve also installed heatsinks on the drivers to be on the safe side but without them (but with the 40mm fan blowing on them) I’ve never had any problem.
Jack[/quote]
Yep, same for me.
Thanks again for the case design Jack.
cheers,
Christian