I have been looking to get this printer working with Cura, but have had no success. The prints turn out really bad everytime I use Cura to slice it.
Tryed to find an earlier post here on the forum regarding the g-code settings that could be entered manually in the CuraEngine.
Can someone help me out here?
I know that the question is of topic in here, but I hope thats ok.
Btw. just ordered the print from reprap.me that will enable a second PSU for the heatbed, hopefully by next week I will be printing ABS on the Velleman.
Peter
[quote=“EmracingDK”]I have been looking to get this printer working with Cura, but have had no success. The prints turn out really bad everytime I use Cura to slice it.
Tryed to find an earlier post here on the forum regarding the g-code settings that could be entered manually in the CuraEngine.
Can someone help me out here?
I know that the question is of topic in here, but I hope thats ok.
Btw. just ordered the print from reprap.me that will enable a second PSU for the heatbed, hopefully by next week I will be printing ABS on the Velleman.
Peter[/quote]
Do you mean the Cura program or the cura engine slicer on repetier?
The Cura Slicer on the Repetier Host. I downloaded the new version that has both the Cura and the Slice3 build in.
Are you guys using another program?
I have only been using Repeater Host, but one of my fellow Makerspace nerds bought the Simplify3D software, which he loves.
Peter
[quote=“EmracingDK”]The Cura Slicer on the Repetier Host. I downloaded the new version that has both the Cura and the Slice3 build in.
Are you guys using another program?
I have only been using Repeater Host, but one of my fellow Makerspace nerds bought the Simplify3D software, which he loves.
Peter[/quote]
Here are my profiles for cura engine, you can use them as a start :
dropbox.com/s/0dv0zr9w2dfbu … 6.rcp?dl=0
dropbox.com/s/pi39vp4e8niht … e.rcf?dl=0
Thanks Christian.
I downloaded Cura software, and have tried to print some things. I noticed that the slicing is much faster, but some of the prints have problems, compared to Repetier Host / slicr3.
Printing a small treefrog leaves a hole between the eyes of the frog, but when I use Repetier Host and slicr3 there is no problem.
I will try and add the settings to Cura, hopefully it helps.
When I get the new heatbed PSU running, I will focus on the hotend and replace it with the E3D v6 one you have.
I was looking at the reprap.me page and noticed that there are two different models, besides the 1.75 mm and the 3.00 mm. A direct or a Bowden model. Do you have any idea what the difference is.
Peter
[quote=“EmracingDK”]Thanks Christian.
I downloaded Cura software, and have tried to print some things. I noticed that the slicing is much faster, but some of the prints have problems, compared to Repetier Host / slicr3.
Printing a small treefrog leaves a hole between the eyes of the frog, but when I use Repetier Host and slicr3 there is no problem.
I will try and add the settings to Cura, hopefully it helps.
When I get the new heatbed PSU running, I will focus on the hotend and replace it with the E3D v6 one you have.
I was looking at the reprap.me page and noticed that there are two different models, besides the 1.75 mm and the 3.00 mm. A direct or a Bowden model. Do you have any idea what the difference is.
Peter[/quote]
I think you misunderstood me.
I use the curaengine with repetier host 1.0.6.
For the K8200 you will need the 3mm direct version of the E3D v6.
The stock extruder is made for 3mm filament, so changing itto 1.75 will need more modification.
Also it will print fexibles less good.
The difference between bowden and direct is, that on the bowden version the filament is fed through a tube into the hotend
and the extruder motor is mounted away from the hotend itself. No good design for flex printing, but good if you want to
lower the mass for moving hotend machines.
cheers,
Christian
Hi Christian, I just imported the files you have shared. I wondered about the filament temperature, in the file “cura settings pla filament”, it’s set to 245. Normally I use 195 degrees for PLA. The 245 degrees must be for ABS right?
Peter
[quote=“EmracingDK”]Hi Christian, I just imported the files you have shared. I wondered about the filament temperature, in the file “cura settings pla filament”, it’s set to 245. Normally I use 195 degrees for PLA. The 245 degrees must be for ABS right?
Peter[/quote]
No, it is for some not so pure Orbitech PLA.
I had some trubles with nozzle blocking, so i set the temp up till it printed well.
The E3D tends to need about 15-20°C higher temp, because of the smaller melting zone.
I just got my Volcano kit and fitted it with a 0.6mm nozzle.
That allowed me to lower the temp with this filament to 200°C while printing at 60mm/sec.
30mm /sec also works with about 190°C.
The Volcano is a really good choice, especially for flexibles, wich work much better with it.
I Just printed to pads for my vice in ninjaflex.
Worked really good with 50mm/sec and 230°C.
cheers,
Christian
I got the heatbed upgrade, now I am at 80-90 degrees in less than 5 minutes, and startet to experiment with ABS.
I ordered a E3D v6 direct, and now it looks like there is an upgrade for that 
To print using flexible filament is a goal, so maybe I should just go ahead and order the Volcano upgrade right now.
I use esun filament, only one I have tried so far, seems to work ok, once you get the temperature dialed in.
Peter
I started printing using ABS. I tried to be systematic about my approach, changing one thing at a time, but I still cant seem to get i right.
I use esun ABS (red), the suggested temperature range is 220-250 degrees celsius.
At 220 the filament wouldn’t run evenly, allmost like it wasn’t melted. Turned up the heat +5 a few times, and at 235-240 I think the result looks ok.
The heatbed I had to run, at a 100 degrees celsius, or else the prints came loose, edges bending upwards.
My problem is, that when I look at bit closer at the print, it seems like the extruded lines are not really melted together. Any ideas on what I could do different?
I run at 235 degrees, speed is 30 mm/s, and heatbed 100 degrees.
[quote=“EmracingDK”]I started printing using ABS. I tried to be systematic about my approach, changing one thing at a time, but I still cant seem to get i right.
I use esun ABS (red), the suggested temperature range is 220-250 degrees celsius.
At 220 the filament wouldn’t run evenly, allmost like it wasn’t melted. Turned up the heat +5 a few times, and at 235-240 I think the result looks ok.
The heatbed I had to run, at a 100 degrees celsius, or else the prints came loose, edges bending upwards.
My problem is, that when I look at bit closer at the print, it seems like the extruded lines are not really melted together. Any ideas on what I could do different?
I run at 235 degrees, speed is 30 mm/s, and heatbed 100 degrees.[/quote]
Can you post a picture of your print?
Maybe you don’t extrude enough material for a nice layer bond.
cheers,
Christian
[quote=“EmracingDK”]Here are a few pictures https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=4A8A19DBEDAD590!49814&authkey=!AFX8OHLESKph3vo&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=4A8A19DBEDAD590!49815&authkey=!ALMuV3QMWxBFnyE&v=3&ithint=photo%2cjpg
On these pictures you can see what I mean.
/Peter[/quote]
You extrude to less material.
Try increasing the flow rate in repetier manual control during print in steps of 2%, till you get solid layers.
Then set that new flow rate as default for your abs filament.
cheers,
Christian
I was looking for info on installing the E3D v6, but can only find guides to assembly of the hotend.
I printed the mount ichbinsnur postet on Thingiverse, unfortunatly I printed it in PLA, and it got soft when I testet the hotend. Also didn’t have any 2mm bolt, so I drilled the holes to 3mm, proberbly not a good idea.
Anyway, I wanted to ask about the fan on the hotend. Should that be on all the time? If so, how did you guys connect it to the board?
I could just use the power in from the Velleman PSU, that’s 15 V, but could do the trick I suppose?.
Anything else I should know. Does the printer need a firmware upgrade?
I did manage to print one testprint and noticed that the E3D v6 was more precise, I set the Extrusion multiplier to 1.05, and the temperature to 210 using esun PLA.
[quote=“EmracingDK”]I was looking for info on installing the E3D v6, but can only find guides to assembly of the hotend.
I printed the mount ichbinsnur postet on Thingiverse, unfortunatly I printed it in PLA, and it got soft when I testet the hotend. Also didn’t have any 2mm bolt, so I drilled the holes to 3mm, proberbly not a good idea.
Anyway, I wanted to ask about the fan on the hotend. Should that be on all the time? If so, how did you guys connect it to the board?
I could just use the power in from the Velleman PSU, that’s 15 V, but could do the trick I suppose?.
Anything else I should know. Does the printer need a firmware upgrade?
I did manage to print one testprint and noticed that the E3D v6 was more precise, I set the Extrusion multiplier to 1.05, and the temperature to 210 using esun PLA.[/quote]
As i mentionend in the description on thingiverse you should drill the Filament guide to AT LEAST 3mm, better 3.2mm. NOT 2mm!
How did it go soft?
The hotend should be completely cool from the heatbreak above!
Didn’t you use the cooling fan?
The cooling fan for the heatsink of the hotend MUST BE ON ALL TIMES!
Even after the print it should run till the hotend has cooled down, to prevent jams.
I run mine with the 12V heater cartridge from e3d connected to the 15V heater power from the k8200 controller for month now.
No problems at all.
cheers,
Christian
Ok, so the new mount should also have 3mm holes, I can do that.
And no, I didn’t use the fan, I guess that’s why the mount went soft.
I will hook it up to the POWER IN then
Thanks for the fast reply, I guess by wednesday I will be up and running again.
/Peter
[quote=“EmracingDK”]Ok, so the new mount should also have 3mm holes, I can do that.
And no, I didn’t use the fan, I guess that’s why the mount went soft.
I will hook it up to the POWER IN then
Thanks for the fast reply, I guess by wednesday I will be up and running again.
/Peter[/quote]
Good you posted here, so i could prevent you from ruining your hotend through totally jamming it. 
If you have further questions, just ask.
cheers,
Christian
Thanks for helping out Christian
I got the part printet in a special hard ABS, should be fine now, also connected the fan to the POWER in, so now it’s running all the time.
I set the Extrusion multiplier to 1.1 in my slic3r setting, but it still looks weird. With the new E3D v6 hotend, the layers have a weakness. Last night I printet with infill = 1 should give a solid structure, but it didn’t, any ideas why?
I run 205 degrees using PLA from esun. I feel the quality is worse than before, so I guess I am looking for some tweaking advice.
I use the K8200 Repetier Host and Slic3r.
I am thinking about buying the simplify3D software, if I cant get this working soon.
[quote=“EmracingDK”]Thanks for helping out Christian
I got the part printet in a special hard ABS, should be fine now, also connected the fan to the POWER in, so now it’s running all the time.
I set the Extrusion multiplier to 1.1 in my slic3r setting, but it still looks weird. With the new E3D v6 hotend, the layers have a weakness. Last night I printet with infill = 1 should give a solid structure, but it didn’t, any ideas why?
I run 205 degrees using PLA from esun. I feel the quality is worse than before, so I guess I am looking for some tweaking advice.
I use the K8200 Repetier Host and Slic3r.
I am thinking about buying the simplify3D software, if I cant get this working soon.[/quote]
Step up the temp a bit more.
The e3d needs more temp, caus it’s melting zone is lots smaller.
Try repetier 1.0.6 and it’s builtin cureaengine slicer.
It’s way faster and mostly gives better results.
Hello Christian, I am now using Cura slicer in Repetier Host 1.0.6 and uploaded your settings.
I have a few questions:
The speed you have in the settings, is that ok 30 slow and 60 fast?
Infill only set to 15% is that what you normally use?
How thin a layer can this printer manage - 0,1 mm right? I am asking because there is a setting for 0.05 mm layer thickness.
Writting this, while I wait for my treefrog testprint to finish up
/Peter
