Guys this is bugging the hell out of me. Thick plexi glass on the heated bed at 55 degrees solves all the sticking and warping problems. No blue tape or hairspray or glue needed and when it cools down the print pops off no problem. Super clean and super efficient please start to include this in your kit. As this seems to be a pain for a lot of people. This is the solution. Thank you
LOL very good
Why use glue when you do not need to. Just use a slab of thick plexi glass and clip it to the bed. No glue or tape ever needed to be bought.
What is the height of your Plexi Glass ?
i got a 5mm plexi glass for my printer and yeah it prints well on it but def dont come off when it cools down it sticks to the plexi like a mad man i hade to use force to get it ro releas witch ment the print didnt fair so well what thikness do u use and is it some special kind of plexi glass
it worked for 2 months then it stuck way too well rendering it useless. there is a new product on the adafruit website that looks great for a bed cover to print large objects.
here is the link adafruit.com/products/2132
hope it helps for now i am back to using mirrors
Why use glue when you do not need to. Just use a slab of thick plexi glass and clip it to the bed. No glue or tape ever needed to be bought.
The original flat bad has good sticking properties. The problem is that it is not flat. Most people try to solve this by using another flat material (e.g. glass, plastic sheet, etc) to cover the original bed. The are working on the wrong side. The most effective way is to glue the original bed on a flat surface. I have used a 4 mm glass plate for this purpose, but also other materials can be used. The lower the weight the better I think.
I have very good experience with this solution.
[quote=“merallas”]The original flat bad has good sticking properties. The problem is that it is not flat. Most people try to solve this by using another flat material (e.g. glass, plastic sheet, etc) to cover the original bed. The are working on the wrong side. The most effective way is to glue the original bed on a flat surface. I have used a 4 mm glass plate for this purpose, but also other materials can be used. The lower the weight the better I think.
I have very good experience with this solution.[/quote]
Interesting idea, did you have to drill holes in the glass, to let the 4 countersunk corner screws in the PCB heatbed pass through to the aluminum plate? And did you drill a hole in the center to make clearance for the thermistor soldered to the bottom of the PCB? What kind of glue did you use?
Yes, I have drilled holes in the glass plate (4 mm thickness) for the screws and a larger hole in the center to make space for the sensor. In the first instance I used dubbel sided tape to glue the plates together. The idea was replace it by high temp (300 deg) silicone compound after testing the system. However, the dubbel sided tape seems to be stabel up to now, so I did not replace it yet, but is perhaps necessary when printing with ABS (higher temps). An additional advantage is that the sandwitch construction feels much more stabel than the original lightweight design.
hit link below for pictures
Very nice.
Ok maybe a dumb question
What did you use to drill the hole?
I have used diamond drills to make the holes. I have purchased them from internet. They cost about 10 euro. In particular for the large drill a stand for the drilling machine is required and cooling with water is recommanded. Furthermore a glass plate of 4 mm is easier to handel than thinner ones.
Hi
I am using mirror on top of the hot bed. then I use Lemon juice 
It works very well. Just add 3-4 drips and spread it with wide artist paintbrush and wait for it to dry.
Last for about 10-15 prints and then i use methylated spirit to clean it off and repeat the process.
Try it!
I put a glass plate (3mm) on my heated bed with a layer of thermal compound between PCB and glass plate.
Heats very evenly and is absolutely leveled.
Next i will try to add som insulating holders from underneath to reduce heat loss.
Is this just regular glass or is it tempered?
I want to do this but I don’t want to get hurt.
LOL
[quote=“Wrong Way”]Is this just regular glass or is it tempered?
I want to do this but I don’t want to get hurt.
LOL[/quote]
just and ordinary piece of 3mm flat glass (window glass)
Any glasser should have some for a few bucks.
Put a good amount of thermal compund underneath, cause the PCB buckles up when heated.
The thermal compund then will fill the gaps and allow the bed to heat much more evenly.
p.s. i needed 2 30g tubes to get enough to fill the gap…
Ichbinsnur,
Thank you for the reply.
I have glass on the top of my bed.
But I think I would like to mount it under the bed like merallas did.
i don’t think that will keep the PCB from warping, but i’m always glad to learn if you get good results.
[quote=“Wrong Way”]Is this just regular glass or is it tempered?
I want to do this but I don’t want to get hurt.
LOL[/quote]
I have used normal glass. It is not such a dangerous operation. Keep it wet and be not hurried.
At the end of the post below I have presented some measurements of the flatness. I think the adjustment can still be improved.
merallas,
Thanks for the update.
Ichbinsnur, You may be correct.
Just to go one step farther.
How do you think it work out if the bed was sandwiched between 2 pieces of glass?
Too much weight?
To long to heat?
Do you think it would be worth it?