My printer and some ideas from the forum

K8200 3D Printer K8200 - Your printer, creations, and ideas for imp
1

Here are some pictures of my 3D printer.
Modified parts:
The y-axis cable bridge, the spool holder, the fan nozzle, and the z-axis with a ball screw and a micrometre.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/sdcp90559mk0p05/p1jWUVYA5D#lh:null-SANY4498.JPG

Next project is a light for the bed, LEDs are ordered.

Thanks for some great ideas and inspirations.

2

good to see some different takes on solving the same printer issues problems:)

whats a ball screw?

keep posting your mods, i for one would love to see any future progress.

many thanks,

gary:)

ps are the / will these go on thingieverse?

3

a ball screw:

http://www.boschrexroth-us.com/country_units/america/united_states/sub_websites/brus_dcl/Products/Screw_Assemblies/Ball_Screw_Assemblies/index.jsp

I will share the link when I’ve uploaded the parts on thingieverse.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:161938
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:161957
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:167650
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:174247

4

@Chigu

I like your y-axis cable bridge but in my case the X belt touches the bridge even when putting some O rings to get it a bit higher. The problem is that the belt is not centered under the highest point of the bridge.
Any possibility you can change that and center the bridge over the belt?

thanks

5

My bridge also touches the belt, but the idea is fine!
I am not sure if centering it will solve the problem.
Increasing the height by say 5mm will solve it anyhow.

6

@Segaar

I’ve tried that but the belt touches the bridge on the side not the top. The bridge is not centered over the belt.

7

I do not know exactly where your x belt crosses the bridge. So I’ve uploaded 3 new versions maybe adjust them better to your printer.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:161938/#files

8

I had the same issue - see the photo and a “fix” to save reprinting at this stage

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/87706745/y%20axis%20bridge-2124.jpg

I also had an issue with my first effort - it warped off the bed as it printed - see photo.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/87706745/y%20axis%20cable%20bracket-2115.jpg

Like others have found - the bed is bowed in the centre (despite enlarging the holes for the securing fastenings) but I do not think this was the prime cause. I played with feed and speed the second time and it did stick better.

However I have noted there is a temperature differential across the bed of 10-15deg C (fan off) which may not help depending on the print start point. I use an infrared thermometer for live readings - which I will post on video IDC.

T

9

@Chigu

I have printer your version "y-axis_cable_bridge_5mm_extended_and_higher.stl’ and that works perfectly.
Much appreciated for your excellent support/effort.

10

Hi,

Great mods! Can you please upload the holder for the micrometer and the trapezoidal thread? (Maybe all the green stuff) The motor holder is the one edirol created?

Greetings
Patrick

11

Wow. Mod it and make it yer own! Way cool! :slight_smile:

So I wonder - what was the most beneficial change with regard to print quality, and why?

12

Hi,
maybe my solution for the y-cable can help.

thingiverse.com/thing:164554

13

@MisterDudeManGuy,

only the nozzle and the z-axis have improved print quality. Because the fan has only one side cooled. if you have printed a tube you could see that the side where the fan is, was better. The nozzle is cooled from two sides.
The new z-axis prevents that, you can see the M8 screw pitch on the outside of the part. but these are very small improvements to the print quality. The print quality was very good from the start. The best change in my opinion is the y-axis cable bridge which prevents pinching of the cable.
the z-axis operates smoothly without wobbling and noise. With the micrometer, it is easier to adjust the offset perfeckt.

14

Yeah the cable bridge should be in the test prints they put on the web site. Really, what were they thinking - bend the cable… Like it will not just revert right back to dragging on the timing belt… What’s supposed to hold it out of the way - wishes and goodwill? ^_<

The nozzle looks like a good thing for me to add. I appreciate your perspective on this. And again - nice job!

15

@PW-Sys

thingiverse.com/thing:167650

16

@Chigu

[quote=“Chigu”]a ball screw:

http://www.boschrexroth-us.com/country_units/america/united_states/sub_websites/brus_dcl/Products/Screw_Assemblies/Ball_Screw_Assemblies/index.jsp[/quote]

Can you say where is possible to buy thid ball screw and the price please ?

Have you change something on the firmware ?

17

Unfortunately, I do not know how many a ballscrew costs. I found it in my basement. You can buy these at the link.
Yes you have to make a change in the firmware. you must change the steps per unit.

Configuration.h

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {64.25,64.25,2560,600} (X,Y,Z,E)

The number 2560 are the steps that the motor makes to move one unit. with the M8 the extruder moves 1,25mm each turn. if you us a 8x2 ball screw the extruder will move 2mm each turn so you must change 2560 to 1600.
The Repetier 0.90C has a nice tool to calculate the steps.

18

Do you have a better print result with this modification ?

Can you share your ballscrew support stl file ?

19

Somebody has already done the modification with a ballscrew ?

20

Hi

I have a short question. How exactly can I change the settings in Configuration.h?
I couldnt find a manual on how to do this. Can you help me out there? Or do you have a link for a manual?

Best regards,
Christian