I installed my mk3 heated bed over the weekend with a 240W 24V separate power supply and the reprap.me power expander. I opted to keep the original glass plate, partly due to my cheap chinese version of the mk3 heated bed inexplicably having a drilled hole in the center.
The glass plate is still quite easily removable, albeit not as fast as the original non-heated bed. I would imagine that this makes it much easier to remove the prints, although I haven’t tried removing prints printed off the bare aluminium of the mk3 heated bed.
I have noticed that it takes quite a long time for the heated bed to cool down even from 50C and removing the glass plate from the printer and my enclosure speeds the cooldown process immensely.
Installation method can be seen in the thread about alternative bed mounting here: viewtopic.php?f=64&t=13776
The original bed leveling thumb screws were also kept.
I used cardboard as an insulator and it is working fine, you can barely feel the heat on the flipside of the heated bed (at 50C).
I did also take the chance to install some other mods while I installed the bed. And now the bottom of my printer looks like this:
It is getting quite crowded down there!
Very happy with the mod so far! Where my buildtak were beginning to wear out of its “magic” capabilities the heated bed has reinvigorated it and I also believe that it has improved my prints in more areas than first layer adhesion as well. By keeping the temperature of the printed object more even throughout the print I would imagine.
Did my conversion too… Removed the original bed and put the MK3 in with the bolts glued to the Mk3 board…
With the extension board and a 24V power supply I have my bed up and running in nowtime…
All I did different was putting springs under the bed… I can tell you that this will make things quite a lot easier…
Just the slightest twist of the thumbwheel transfers to the position of the headbed…
So thanks for pointing me in the right direction with the headtbed implementation!! I can do ABS now …
Next up is a dual E3D v6 setup, (next month or so) … so I can start printing more materials… !!!
I have taken the instructions from viewtopic.php?f=64&t=13776. So credits goes to that original poster!!
I mixed some epoxy and dabbed the heads of the orginal bolt with it, stuck the bolts in the Z-bed frame and layed over the Mk3.
Waited for 20 minutes and carefully took it out.
Mixed a new batch of epoxy and really generous spreaded this up and around the bolt head.
Waited for it to harden out en pushed the cork isolation over the bolts and applied some glue to stick it to the MK3 underneath.
The height is still the same as before as but because of the springs instead of the double nut I lost q few mm of Z height. But I like the springs much better…
therefore I glued a spacer to the cork so that the pressure is only on the bolt and not on the glued section of bolt/Mk3
The glass plate is a touch bigger but that doesn’t matter to me… The Mk3 is big enough for my prints…
[quote=“graeddtarta”]
I did also take the chance to install some other mods while I installed the bed. And now the bottom of my printer looks like this:
It is getting quite crowded down there!
Very happy with the mod so far! Where my buildtak were beginning to wear out of its “magic” capabilities the heated bed has reinvigorated it and I also believe that it has improved my prints in more areas than first layer adhesion as well. By keeping the temperature of the printed object more even throughout the print I would imagine.[/quote]
Nice mod, could you describe all your modifications ?
is that enough to power the vertex with dual heads and the mk3 heatbed ?
i hope someone can help me i would really like to install a heated bed.[/quote]
Have you already replaced the power supply?[/quote]
Hi, no havent gotten the chance yet, i had some frustating issues with a partly clogged nozzle where i thought it was the filament that was bad but it turned out it was the clogged nozzle.
Now after some burned fingertips and a again clean nozzle the printer is working fine with 1 or 2 heads so im thinking of ordering the powersupply in the next week or 2, but due to to much work i wont be able to install it before the 30.march where i have a day of
to be honest my first plan was to buy and implement it much earlier but then everything went to hell and i got so many bad prints and problems with filament and the clogged nozzles that i decided my first priority is getting everything to work again and seeing if it stays that way for a week or two before i invest more money into the printer
but now everything is good so like i said plans are by the end of march to replace it.
my Last 2 print worked quite well
and this was before when the nozzle was already partly clogged
bonjour
j ai un problème , lit mk3 en place avec alimentation et tout les reste , fonctionne parfaitement en manuel via repetier
par contre quand je lance une impression le lit ne ce m et pas en chauffe
j ai pourtant bien suivie toute les instructions de configuration sauf celle du firmware http://www.k8xxx-3dprinters.crimed.be/w/index.php?title=Installing_a_reprap.me_MK3_heated_bed
Normalement avec la température dans le réglage filament et le code ad hoc dans le start G-code cela doit fonctionner.
Regarde le G-code généré par le slicing pour voir ce qui est pris en compte.
Also some isolation has been added (carton + cork) to speed up the heating process.
The carton fills up the 0,5mm space under the heated bed PCB (thickness = 1mm). The original Vertex glass has a thickness of ± 4mm (2,5mm + 1mm + 0,5mm).
It’s possible that I add some extra isolation in the future if necessary.
I took the schematic from the K8200 forum.
I coudn’t find the right MOSFET at the electronics store so I took another one but it doesn’t make a huge difference.
Like I said it’s a mesh… the PCB is an old one so the copper wasn’t good anymore, that’s why I soldered some extra wires on it.
It’s an experimental PCB, the definitely version will be much better with a printed case of course…
Hi,
Do You print directly on the mk3 heatbed?
What about the flatness?
The spec is not good on the paper. Å"Flatness across surface is approximately within ±0.2mm"
Normally it should be ~± 0.02 to be able to do a proper bed-nozzle calibration.
Regards L
Actually mine is flat.
Never tried to print directly on the bed. the surface is a bit grainy and not so easy to clean up. I’m using blue tape for PLA and PVC glue for ABS.
with a printed case of course…