I have the printer working now I got missing parts yesterday and completed today , and fitted a mk3 alu heated bed and extra 24v psu
first print pla buildtak worked very well , too well was a bugger to get item off bed , suspect head was too close on first layer
all seems good works well will post more info on bed installation tomorrow
[quote=“commanderK”]I have the printer working now I got missing parts yesterday and completed today , and fitted a mk3 alu heated bed and extra 24v psu
first print pla buildtak worked very well , too well was a bugger to get item off bed , suspect head was too close on first layer
all seems good works well will post more info on bed installation tomorrow[/quote]
Looking forward to this!!! I will order an MKIII right away… 
will upload pics when back had to go away other night bk tomorrow
I am eagerly awaiting this… 
I have just received my MK3 as well as insulating stuff, screws, brackets and a few power expanders…
No news yet?
sorry had family commitments over the holidays ill try and outline what I did briefly
I got a 24v 15a psu and mounted it on standoffs , underneath at front of machine and wired heated bed through the reprap power expander , the heated bed itself is mounted as follows on top of the alu z plate I have a 3mm piece of silicone rubber sheet then the aluminium mk3 bed on top of that then the glass plate on top of that and am using 2 stationary clips either side to secure with buildtak on glass sheet
I used a b3950 100k thermistor from bed between silicone sheet and bed and wired to thermistor pins on k8400 controller , I needed no resistors it seems I get an accurate reading on bed temp
my heated bed still took along time to heat up so I ended up adjusting the 24v power supply output to 18v and wiring up through the 12v pads on they heated bed , it seems many people do this for faster heat ups of bed I get to 100deg in just over 2 mins like this, some are fine , it may be dependent on where you get your bed from , I suspect mine may be a copy and not official reprap bed but its working well in this configuration
the reprap power exander is is provided a signal from the 2 outer pins of the heated bed connector on k8400 controller , and the firmware remains unchanged it works out of the box so to speak
hope this helps will try and put some pics when I can get home and to computer , added this from my phone any questions fire away but when using a power expander its pretty str8 forward
I have had good prints from the machine and heated bed , you can print very small abs parts with this machne without a heated bed but unless you want warping you need a bed the buildtak is ok and things stick at times too well , but it does not last for ever I got about 20 to 30 prints before bits start coming off and it needed replacing , but heated bed and buildtak seems to be best so far
Thank you commanderK! Will the MK3 mount diretly on the holes in the Vertex alu plate?
no some would but would not give best position of the bed if you wanted to mount like that would be easy to make new ones
I used silicone sheet and then some at sides toi support glass ill try and get some pictures up sorry
mounting of the plate is not final on my build I was just experimenting but it has worked well, at first I just stuck buildtak to the mk3 alu bed but sometimes things stuck so well they were pretty hard to remove, so I added glass also so I could simply remove bulldog clips and take glass off
I used to silicone sheet to protect the plastic parts of the vertex from heat of bed as others on other builds had used cork
it make the whole build platform about 11-12mm thick so I had to fully adjust the build height adjuster on the z axis to the max to accommodate and stop any nozzle strikes
Have you tried to print anything without glass and buildtak? As far as I understand it should be possible to print directly to the heated aluminium as seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0HZn7aoYb8
Which would be really cool imo… But I guess the aluminium would need to be pretty flat in order to do it…
I read many people do print str8 on bed , I have not tried this only sticking the buildtak sheet to it, but results would be same with krypton tape ect im sure , when printing without buildtak and abs ive found acetone abs slurry works realy well and easy to remove
If anyone is looking for a cheap way of controlling a heat bed I used a DC 12V 1CH 1 Channel relay module Load AC 250V/10A, DC 30V/10A Expansion Module which cost £1.50 ( about two euros). It will handle 10 amps so on 23v you can supply 240 watts, The power for switching is supplied from the heated bed connector on the motherboard and it only draws about 60mA. This then switches 24v that is supplied to the other side of the relay by an additional psu. Wire it up as ‘normally open’ and when the thermostat is below the target temperature the mother board supplies the power to pull in the relay, So far seems to work fine and the temperature is held constant.
Preaheating bed on the LCD menu doesn’t work. The target temperature stays on 0°
Or is it just a firmware setting? Heating the bed with Repetier works flawless.
Cheers,
Dylan
[quote=“minitreintje”]Preaheating bed on the LCD menu doesn’t work. The target temperature stays on 0°
Or is it just a firmware setting? Heating the bed with Repetier works flawless.[/quote]
You have to set the desired temperature in the configuration.h file of the marlin firmware :
look for #define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 0 and #define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 0 and replace the zeros with the temperatures you want.
Alright, a firmware setting. I already thought it was something like that
Cheers,
Dylan
I’ve installed a MK3 heated bed, I used a 150W 24V powersupply and power expander from reprap and the plate incl. isolation ( ordered from reprap also ). Is the same height as a glass + buildtak plate so fits rather well. ( it is a bit smaller so I can print only from 10-190 on the X-axis.
I use some hairspray on the plate and have not encountered any problems with sticking so far, I print PLA straight on the bed with bed heated to 60 degrees. A very nice feature of the setup is that the items come off after printing very easiliy.
Page to my octoprint portal and Timelapse of Marvin, printed with 0.05 layer thickness.
vanduijnict.nl/?page=3dprinting
I will make a writeup with photo’s of the complete setup with heated bed probably this weekend.
hi everyone,
i wanna replace the original vertex psu to use only one when i install a heated bed on a later time.
As im not so perfect with electronics can someone please tell me if this is a powerfull enough replacement
reichelt.de/Schaltnetzteile- … eschlossen
it has 321W at 15V with 21,4a
is that enough to power the vertex with dual heads and the mk3 heatbed ?
i hope someone can help me i would really like to install a heated bed.
[quote=“MavRaven”]hi everyone,
i wanna replace the original vertex psu to use only one when i install a heated bed on a later time.
As im not so perfect with electronics can someone please tell me if this is a powerfull enough replacement
reichelt.de/Schaltnetzteile- … eschlossen
it has 321W at 15V with 21,4a
is that enough to power the vertex with dual heads and the mk3 heatbed ?
i hope someone can help me i would really like to install a heated bed.[/quote]
320w should be mora than sufficient for your planned configuration.
The heaters us about 40w each, so you have about 240w left for the heatbed.
[quote=“ichbinsnur”]
320w should be mora than sufficient for your planned configuration.
The heaters us about 40w each, so you have about 240w left for the heatbed.[/quote]
thanks that sounds good, then i order one at reichelt, i dont like the idea of ordering one in china over ebay and waiting 3 weeks for it to be delivered only to see
that its bad quality psu, so im going with the safe bet which is reichelt in this case
I’ve installed a heated bed with instructions on the site below:
k8xxx-3dprinters.crimed.be/w … heated_bed
Parts used:
I use a little hairspray on the board and can then print PLA with board set to 60 degrees. I haven’t encountered any problems with it so far.
Can someone tell me what are good power supply to use instead of the original from velleman?
