[quote=“VEL337”][quote=“Deskstar”]I’ve ordered a BuildTak sheet and will test this on the K8200 with and without heating the bed.
I’ll let you know the results.[/quote]
I have done that at home with heated bed and objects that are 195mm wide stay flat on the bed and don’t curve[/quote]
Do you mean you tried a heated and non heated BuildTak sheet on the K8200? Or a heated BuildTak on the K8200 and a non-heated one on the K8400?
Were they both ABS prints and were the results equal?
[quote=“ichbinsnur”]p.s. i bought the K8200 myself deliberatly, but knowing is’s not the most highend one.
I did this to learn about the Technology while using and improving it.[/quote]
I bought mine for the same reason! I’ve learned a lot about3D printing. My K8200 print now well, after many modifications. The K8400 is very similar to the Ultimaker printer. It’s a different architecture and a new challenge. I’vd ordered mine, but it will be available in Switzerland only at the end December 
I have built a few of the K8200s.
Regardless of what others have said about the printer I think it’s a great machine.
Still waiting for the K8400 to come to the USA.
But I have a question about the BuildTak sheet.
If you get oil from your hands on it (it will happen) can you clean it with alcohol to remove it.
Will it damage the sheet?
quote=“Wrong Way”
If you get oil from your hands on it (it will happen) can you clean it with alcohol to remove it.
Will it damage the sheet?[/quote]Yes, you can. This is from the BuildTak homepage:
Thanks for the reply Deskstar
I will wait to buy the printer until they solved the heatbed. I understand that abs will stick to the buildtak service, but abs will definitely crack between layers when printed on a cold bed. PLA has a much stronger bonding to its previous layer and does not shrink as much as ABS. After printing many ABS parts on my reprap i2 I learned that the only way is a steady temperature throughout the whole part, using a heated bed and insulated build chamber.
This printer is not capable for ABS because of lacking the heat bed and enclosed build chamber.
Although the board seems to support a heatbed, the power supply will definitely not support as it is not powerfull enough. The connectors on the board are also not capable for 20A+ current that the printer and heatbed will use.
Therefore for adding a heatbed an additional power supply is required together with an aditional switch board with a relais.
Warping of the heatbed is not an issue when using an aluminium heatbed
reprap.me/heatbed/alu-241.html , which is perfect together with buildtak. Or use a glass plate with a kapton heater film underneath.
I was hoping that this printer would be my follow up for the reprap but in its current state it is unfortunately not usefull for my purpose
I received my BuildTak sheet and tested it on the K8200.
For this test I applied the BuildTak sheet to a glas plate.
The first layer hight was adjusted carefully to the BuildTak recommendations.
The part I tried to print is this:
This part has an overall length of approx. 11 cm. The width of the middle part is 2mm, the two end have a width of only 1mm, so not much surface to hold the part to the bed.
I was not able to print this part on the standard K8200 PCB with ABS.
PLA was never a problem.
[color=#0000FF]Tests:[/color]
(All tests performed on the BuildTak sheet.)
First test: PLA on a non-heated bed (20°C): Part printed without problems. Holds very good on the BuildTak sheet.
Second test: ABS on a non-heated bed (20°C): The two ends curved upwards after about 7 layers. Print cancelled, part unusable. Sticks slightly better than on the heated PCB directly (80°C).
Third test: ABS on a heated bed (80°C): The part was printed perfectly. No warping.
[color=#0000FF]Conclusion:[/color]
For me the ideal printing surface is the BuildTak on a glas plate WITH a heated bed.
Although I guess most parts could be printed in ABS on a cold BuildTak bed, SOME parts will still require a heated bed to prevent warping.
Regards
/R
Thanks for that nice review Deskstar.
May i ask what you paid for that Buildtak sheet?
Hi ichbinsnur
I bought the 10" by 10" Buildtak sheet as I hadn’t decided at that time on what surface I would stick it too.
As I used the Velleman glas plate I simply cut it to size after applying.
It costed 12.75 € plus 8 € shipping.
Regards
/R
Well that’s quite affordable 
I think i will get me one too in the future.
But first i change the belts …
Does the firmware support a heated bed out of the box , after having a read it seems many have gr8 results with a reprap mk3 duel voltage heated bed running at 24volts as the power supply may struggle without extra power anyway I have a 24v power supply here anyway so wondering If I could do similar solution as k8200 users do
Questions
Can I simply hook the bed up to other power supply through a relay as such and simply place a thermistor on the bed and the control board will do the rest and turn bed on and off the maintain temperature ?
That probably should work, although i don’t know if the heated bed is enabled in the firmware cause the Vertex comes without it.
Maybe you have to recompile the firmware to enable the heatbed.
If you use a relay for breaking out heatbed power make sure you have a current limiting resistor and flyback diode at the relay coil, or you may blow the heatbed MOSFET.
It is possible that we release a heated bed addon in the future.
Thanks !
It is possible that we release a heated bed addon in the future.[/quote]
I noticed that but when , I did think it came with one at purchase
[quote=“ichbinsnur”]That probably should work, although i don’t know if the heated bed is enabled in the firmware cause the Vertex comes without it.
Maybe you have to recompile the firmware to enable the heatbed.
If you use a relay for breaking out heatbed power make sure you have a current limiting resistor and flyback diode at the relay coil, or you may blow the heatbed MOSFET.[/quote]
Thanks for reply , will have to look into this further
You can also use a MOSFET driven electronics board. The curcuit is available someehere here in the forum.
If you want i can post apicture of my relay switch.
(still stuck with the test build in lack of time for making a housing for it )
[quote=“ichbinsnur”]You can also use a MOSFET driven electronics board. The curcuit is available someehere here in the forum.
If you want i can post apicture of my relay switch.
(still stuck with the test build in lack of time for making a housing for it )[/quote]
Would be interesting , looks like I need to check firmware is not in Pwm mode also
when wiring a thermistor for this board for the bed does there need to be a 4.7k resister in line or anything ?
firmware states the likes of
// 11 is 100k beta 3950 1% thermistor (4.7k pullup)
or is this already on the board ?
