Heated bed and buildtak

Can someone confirm if there is a heated bed as well as buildtak included in the Vertex package? If not, what is required for the heated bed (which I guess is really needed for ABS parts).

There is NO heated bed delivered with the vertex, but the board supports a heated bed already.

Velleman says :

If you want do do it yourself get a heatbed pcb, a thermistor, a second power supply (24v i suggest) and some power control circuit for the heatbed.
You can use the MOSFET driven electronics available here on the forum or a simple relay to break out the heatbed power to the secondary supply.
I used the “relay version” on my k8200.

Vertex does not come with a heated bed.
Buildtak allows printing of ABS without the need for a heated bed.
The Vertex main board has heated bed output and current firmware supports it.
At this time, we have no plans to release a heated bed.

Although I have never actually tried buildtak, I have tried several tall and wide ABS prints and without a heated printbed it is virtually impossible for me to avoid delamination of the layers (although I have never tried to up the extruder temperature to 280 deg C which someone wrote somewhere).

In any case, the Vertex schematics seems to support output to heated bed, can someone recommend something which fits the Vertex? (I have just ordered the Vertex and hopefully will get it before the weekend, but I also would like to print ABS parts right away).

Just compare the measures of the heatbeds available.

I think a MK II will fit.

[quote=“VEL417”]Vertex does not come with a heated bed.
Buildtak allows printing of ABS without the need for a heated bed.
The Vertex main board has heated bed output and current firmware supports it.
At this time, we have no plans to release a heated bed.[/quote]

Hello VEL417,
I understand Velleman has no plans to release a heated bed. We love our Vertex3d but the Buildtak was destroyed after the first print. Then I looked at the homepage form Buildtak and saw that every 10-15 printing on the same place the user should buy and install a new Buildtak anyway(not really cheap). Because of this I would like to install a heated bed. Can you please help me for putting a shopping list together for upgrading to the heated bed?
1_ Which heated bed MK3 or FC16C-3/SPPCB(K8200 heated bed, but I can’t find specifications)http://www.reichelt.de/VM-P8200BED/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=446&ARTICLE=138439&artnr=VM+P8200BED&SEARCH=k8200.
2_Thermistor http://www.reichelt.de/VM-NTC100K-1206/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=446&ARTICLE=138437&artnr=VM+NTC100K-1206&SEARCH=k8200
3_Power supply (I will upgrade second Extruder in my Vertex3d Printer. Has Vertex3d printer power supply enough power for all this included the heated bed or should I install an external power supply?). Like this one http://www.reichelt.de/Netzteile-Festspannung/MW-GS60A12/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=148081&GROUPID=4950&artnr=MW+GS60A12
4_ Biggest question: which connector do I need for the heated bed connection to the mainboard heated bed control output. And do I also need any Relais or anything else?

Thanks for your comments

Regards
Niyazi

I have installed an MK3 Alu-heated bed. It’s has an integrated alu bed plate. No need for a glass plate. You can print directly on the alu plate. It’s a perfect replacement for the actual glass+Buildtak plate. You can still use the old bed if needed, it takes 30 seconds to swap it.
The MK3 is 21x21 cm but as the most left 4 cm are only used to rest the hot ends it’s not an issue.

You’ll need a 24V power supply like this one : http://www.reichelt.de/SNT-MW100-24/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=446&ARTICLE=57489&artnr=SNT+MW100-24&SEARCH=mw100-24
and a small easy-to-build electronic control circuit :


The connectors for the heated bed and the temp sensor are ready on the Vertex Controller board.
You’ll need two connectors like this one : http://www.reichelt.de/VM-NTC100K-1206/3/index.html?ACTION=3;ARTICLE=694;SEARCH=PSK%20254/4W one 2 pins and one 4 pins.

You can read this topic (it’s for the K8200 but the electronics are the same) :http://forum.velleman.eu/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9598&start=240.

Should you need more explanations you can email me (raby at crimed dot be)

[quote=“raby”]I have installed an MK3 Alu-heated bed. It’s has an integrated alu bed plate. No need for a glass plate. You can print directly on the alu plate. It’s a perfect replacement for the actual glass+Buildtak plate. You can still use the old bed if needed, it takes 30 seconds to swap it.
The MK3 is 21x21 cm but as the most left 4 cm are only used to rest the hot ends it’s not an issue.

You’ll need a 24V power supply like this one : http://www.reichelt.de/SNT-MW100-24/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=446&ARTICLE=57489&artnr=SNT+MW100-24&SEARCH=mw100-24
and a small easy-to-build electronic control circuit :


The connectors for the heated bed and the temp sensor are ready on the Vertex Controller board.
You’ll need two connectors like this one : http://www.reichelt.de/VM-NTC100K-1206/3/index.html?ACTION=3;ARTICLE=694;SEARCH=PSK%20254/4W one 2 pins and one 4 pins.

You can read this topic (it’s for the K8200 but the electronics are the same) :http://forum.velleman.eu/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9598&start=240.

Should you need more explanations you can email me (raby at crimed dot be)[/quote]

Hello Raby,
your answer is already helpful. But I’m searching an alternative solution to upgrade the Vertex3d power supply with a stronger one (Vertex power supply specification 15V / 10 Amper). Because of this I tought about notebook/laptop power adapters (they are smaller and secure then normal power supplies). What do you think?

Regards
Niyazi

The 15V-150W power supply of the Vertex is perfect without a heated bed. You’ll need at least 12V -10A (120W) for the heatbed alone. Using a 24V PS for the heated bed speed up things or it takes ages to reach more than 50°.

You would need a 15V 250W power supply to replace the original supply (which is a good one by the way). Laptop PS are less reliable for this job, and their usual voltage is 19V and the most powerful I could find is 150W.

Something like this : aliexpress.com/item/CE-appro … 45350.html
15V 350W

[quote=“raby”]The 15V-150W power supply of the Vertex is perfect without a heated bed. You’ll need at least 12V -10A (120W) for the heatbed alone. Using a 24V PS for the heated bed speed up things or it takes ages to reach more than 50°.

You would need a 15V 250W power supply to replace the original supply (which is a good one by the way). Laptop PS are less reliable for this job, and their usual voltage is 19V and the most powerful I could find is 150W.[/quote]

Hello Raby,
when I find a power supply with 15V/250W it will be okay for Vertex3d Printer but how can I connect 15V to the heated bed. On the MK3 there are soldering points for 12v or 24v then should I use the 12v soldering points?

Regards
Niyazi

[quote=“Tops”]Something like this : aliexpress.com/item/CE-appro … 45350.html
15V 350W[/quote]
This one would do the job.

[quote=“raby”][quote=“Tops”]Something like this : aliexpress.com/item/CE-appro … 45350.html
15V 350W[/quote]
This one would do the job.[/quote]

Hello Raby,
Vertex power supply is this one http://www.reichelt.de/Schaltnetzteile-Case-geschlossen/SNT-RS-150-15/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=137113&GROUPID=4959&artnr=SNT+RS+150+15. Because of the space under the Vertex is not much (Lenght, width). I would like to install this one (15v/16A 240watt) http://www.reichelt.de/Schaltnetzteile-Case-geschlossen/MW-SP-240-15/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=147871&GROUPID=4959&artnr=MW+SP-240-15.

Only five more questions.
1_Which thermistor should I install for the MK3 heated bed that runs without any firmware thermistor data table changes. http://forum.velleman.eu/viewtopic.php?f=63&t=13164?
2_ Which cable thicknessshould I use from heated bed to power supply also to Controlling circuit like you showed for 15v/16A?
3_ When printing on the MK3 heated bed aluminum (We don’need glas?) should iI use glue stic too or sanything else?
4_ Canyou also tell me for ABS printing should I use the same settings like for PLA except temperature (245?)
5_ I can’t find MK3 in Germany “trusted” online Shops. I found only the MK2b http://www.amazon.de/Kompatibel-Printer-Heatbed-RepRap-Drucker/dp/B00G458DFY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421856754&sr=8-1&keywords=mk2b or this one http://www.2printbeta.de/Elektronik/Aktoren/Beheiztes-Druckbett-Set::266.html.

Thank you
Regards
Niyazi

The power supply is fine. You can connect the 15V output to the 12V input of the MK3 it will speed up the heating (it’s the contrary on the 24V input).

You can buy the MK3 [color=#008040]here[/color]. You’ll also find there the NTC and an isolating pad to put under the bed.
There you also can buy a power expander (http://reprap.me/heatbed/power-expander.html if you don’t know how to make one (which is quite easy).

You don’t need to put a glass on the alu bed. You can print directly on the alu bed.

I print ABS with the same settings as for PLA (default settings but 75% flow and 235°).

bonjour raby

petit question cette alimentation la (reichelt.de/SNT-MW100-24/3/i … H=mw100-24) remplace celle d’origine si tu veux connecter un mk3 ou vient elle en supplement ?

merci

On ne peux pas alimenter la Vertex en 24V. L’alim 24V vient donc en plus.
Le lit MK3 consomme entre 5 et 6A, il faut donc prendre une alim de 150W.

L’alternative est d’utiliser une seule alim 15V plus puissante en sachant que le lit alimenté en 15V sur l’entrée 12V peut consommer jusqu’à 225W! La vertex a besoin de 100-120W s’il y a deux extrudeurs.
Il faut donc au moins 350W en 15V.
J’ai opté pour une 2ème alim 24V 150W.

tu peux la fixer sans soucis sur le boitier ?

celle ci serait interessante ?
http://www.reichelt.de/Power-Devices/SNT-RSP-500-15/3/index.html?&ACTION=3&LA=2&ARTICLE=144820&GROUPID=4959&artnr=SNT+RSP-500-15

[quote=“monchyv62”]tu peux la fixer sans soucis sur le boitier ?[/quote] La mienne oui.
Celle que tu proposes je ne sais pas. Elle pèse 1.3Kg et n’a que des attaches latérales et ses dimensions ne sont pas fournies. Sinon côté puissance pas de souci. Elle n’est pas donnée par contre. Une 24V 150W coûte moins de 30€.

bonjour
et avec cela ça peux fonctionner
http://www.reprap-france.com/produit/1234568342-patch-chauffant-polyimide-12v-120w

[quote=“danydan”]bonjour
et avec cela ça peux fonctionner
http://www.reprap-france.com/produit/1234568342-patch-chauffant-polyimide-12v-120w[/quote]
Ce patch chauffant mesure 225x225 ce qui est plus grand que le lit et donc posera problème pour le fixer (et il faut encore trouver une plaque en alu plane) alors que le MK3 a juste la bonne dimension.