Ayant installé un MK3, je confirme; c’est idéal. Il a juste la bonne taille.
Le thermistor SMD se soudant en bordure du lit, il n’y a aucun problème pour l’intégrer sur le châssis de la K8400.
salut
c’est du cable pour HP que tu as utilisé ou raccorder ton plateau à l’alimentation ?
[quote=“monchyv62”]c’est du cable pour HP que tu as utilisé ou raccorder ton plateau à l’alimentation ?[/quote]Oui en 2x0.75 mais pour le lit n’importe quel fil 2x0.75 convient puisqu’il n’est pas polarisé.
J’ai utilisé du cable HP pour le thermistor, et du câble électrique 2x1.5mm2. Ce dernier est un peu rigide, mais cela fonctionne. Le câble HP avec une alimentation 200W avait tendance à un peu chauffer. Je n’ai pas voulu prendre de risque.
J’ai utilisé pour connecter le thermistor, le lit chauffant et l’alimentation ces connecteurs:
Au niveau puissance, ils sont limites (prévus pour 12V/5A et je suis à 24V/8.5A), mais ils ne chauffent pas et ils ont l’avantage de ne pas avoir besoin de soudure. Je tiens à rendre l’alimentation et le lit chauffant amovibles. Je les garde en attendant de trouver une solution plus élégante ou des connecteurs plus adaptés.
I read the conversation regarding heated bed and also the conversation which is related to K8200.
I will make a conclusion and please let me know if I am right.
To install heated bed MK3 which is actualy smaller (21x21cm) on both direction I also need a controler, (who will switch on/off the heating so the temperature will be exact) thermistor (for detecting/reading temperature) and additional powersupply.
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The actual temperature of the board is detected by the termistor which is located on the board and needs to be purchased/installed seperatly?
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I can use Power Expander (reprap) for on/off switch?
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additional PSU is requred 24V/350W
All the items are connected according to the shema below:
Will this work???
A 24V/200W power supply is enough.
Be careful of the polarity for the connection between the PowerExpander and the main board.
And for a 24V power supply, you need to attach the power cable to the pins 2 and 3 on the bed.
So all this components (PowerExpander, MK3 Bed, board K8400) are compatible?
Original plate is than not in use anymore? Only MK3 bed is in the printer?
What if I would like to remove the plate outside of the printer so I can remove an object when MK bed is not inside? Can I add another glass layer above the heated bed?
[quote=“Jurij”]So all this components (PowerExpander, MK3 Bed, board K8400) are compatible?[/quote]Absolutely!
[quote=“Jurij”]Original plate is than not in use anymore? Only MK3 bed is in the printer? [/quote]The glass plate is not needed but you can use it if you will (better use thermal compound between hotbed and glass) but you will loose a few mm in heigth.
I use a Mk 2 heat bed with a piece of 210 x 210 borax glass sitting directly onto the heat pad, and some ‘Pritt Stick’ glue. I have only used it for PLA and at 57 degrees the print sticks every time and when the bed cools the object just lifts off, I use 57 degrees as my heat pads is not that even in its heat output and I want to ensure that the minimum temperature at any point is 53 degrees.
I found the buildtak very effective but I didn’t want to keep replacing it so I have found it much cheaper to install a heated bed and very simple to fit. I do not use any thermal compound and a simple two euro relay control to switch the heat bed on and off.
[quote=“VEL417”]Vertex does not come with a heated bed.
Buildtak allows printing of ABS without the need for a heated bed.
The Vertex main board has heated bed output and current firmware supports it.
At this time, we have no plans to release a heated bed.[/quote]
Buildtak say themselves that a heated bed is required even with Buildtak.
The 150W power supply is too weak for a heated bed anyway.