I bought today two original E3D V6 1.75 in the NL.
Got it for 59,50 each with free shipping in NL
I guess it is a good price
Unfortunately, they do not ship to Germany, only NL and BE, but got a friend in NL who ordered it and will ship it.
I found the shop because I was in NL yesterday
I will rise some questions in this forum while I am installing them 
Best
Frank
[quote=“frank.von.thienen”]Dear all,
I have been thru all pages and would like to rap everything together as far as I understood it right:
We have to adjust some voltage for the fans, even if I am thinking, that 15V would not kill the fans.
But to be on the save site, we should use the K8400 heaters.
Did I missed one, or did I mixed it up?
Best
Frank[/quote]
Hi Frank,
as i just have been trough the same Thing i will try an answer some of your questions
i also ordered from the netherland but i payed more and they shipped it to Germany, even tough i could have driven to pick it up because i live quite Close to the border (30km)
To your questions:
I also bought the original one, i payed more because they shipped to Germany but im quite happy with it, i Think you can easily see the differences between a clone and the original if you look at the Quality and one of my main Goals was to not have so much clogging of the nozzle and easy Access to replacement parts of good Quality, thats Why i Chose the original e3d v6
Yes you can use the original heater and after talking to my local electronics guy he said the terminal connectors on the original pcb should handle the increased power more than fine, but if you want to do it the safe like i did use the original vertex heaters, i have been Printing with them for more then 2 weeks now and they still work like a charm, only Thing is the cables are a Little short after the Change to e3d but it fits only Thing is the e3ds heat up faster but to be honest i have no Problem waiting a Minute longer to heat up.
when Printing something that takes 3 or 4 hours does it really make a difference if it heats up a Minute faster ?
use the fans from e3d put in a resistor the right size and hook them up to the powersupply directly, so they spin up everytime you start up the Printer. there is a spare 15v connector on the Mainboard so thats the easiest way i guess.Anyway thats how i did it
But Keep in mind if you disconnect the big original fan on the vertex you have to Replace the resistor on the pcb with a stronger one so that the small fan does not get to many power and eventually burn out
it works perfectly and is much much better then the original vertex if you ask me. Simply because ist more sturdy and easier to Mount or Replace if anything goes wrong
i hope i could help you
if you want you can also hit me up on Twitter nickname is: MavRaven i would be happy to help
best regards
Markus
Hi Markus,
thanks for wrapping up your experience.
That is of big help to me.
Despite the fan, I was mostly correct, so I have to pay attention to the fan issue.
Will do!
If I get some more questions, I will contact you via twitter (if I remember my name there… never used it)
Or drop a line here.
So far
Thanks a lot
Best
Frank
Hi everyone because i didnt like the fact that i loose some mm on the x and y axis when mounting the e3d V6 hotends i went on to Build a new cooler which doesnt waste and Build space:
Its made to work with a 40x40 Fan which i bought of eBay with the same voltage and Current specifications then the old 30x30 E3d Fan, But the fan moves more air so it should be okay to ventilate both the heater sink and the print at the same time, of Course you loose the possibility to Control the fan on the print but i mostly print with the fan on 100% so it doesnt really affect my Printing.
I already printed it but didnt have the time to install and test it yet.
If anyone is interested i will upload the stl files to Thingiverse
Best Markus
Hello,
do you have some images with installed E3DV6? And yes upload this files please.
regards
Wolfgang
Hi all,
just finished the reassembling of my print head with two new E3D V6 heads.
I have to get some screws (3x60) from a special dealer, since such screws are not available in the DIY-Shop.
A few questions remain, which one of you could probaply solve with an answer
I found in the schematics PL1 and PL2, but on the PCB ist is PL2 and PL3.
Both of them supplying 15V. Some have more electronic parts around the other not.
But both deliver 15V
I have connected the E3D fans to those two pins and reduced the 15V down to 12V by a 36Ohm resistor. The fan is 12V 0,09A.
Where 36Ohm is correct to loose 3V on the way.
Question is: The resistor gets little warm, because of its job, but what is the required Watts for the resistor.
I mounted the heater block upside down to have the block away from the printhead holder on the bars.
Having it in the “correct” position, was to close for me. The heater was act 1mm from the black plastic.
I guess, installing it upside down, shouldn’t make any difference
I have to make some adjustments with the Multiplier etc, and find the correct set ups for S3D.
I got the settings from MavRaven which I can start with.
So far not a big deal.
Most tricky:
Thanks to MavRaven for the assistance via Twitter, that was really a nice information source :-))) Cheers mate!!!
Best
Frank
I upgraded to E3Dv6 however when I print an object sometimes a layer doesn’t stick on the previous one.
The consequence is that an object is ripped:
Also the retraction settings aren’t good for PLA, which settings are you guys using for the E3Dv6?
Dylan
I got a real prob with the PLA sticking on the heated bed.
I am setting up the system in the way, that I try several settings.
If I am finished and satisfied, I will report back here.
At the moment, I got everything printed and it sticks on the plate. I am not sure why it did not stick yesterday,
but I do not ask, since it is doing it now.
I keep you informed
No Problems, allways happy to help out 
Hi Wolfgang,
sorry i havent had time to install the cooler, im planning on maybe doing it this Weekend, but im still Printing some parts for one or two other modifications i want to try out and implement at the same time.
I uploaded the files to Thingiverse thingiverse.com/thing:1354817
Feel free to try the cooler design, and i would really appreciate some Feedback
best regards Markus
Does anybody have like a general guide for this?
I’m really thinking about changing my aswell to an E3D v6, but I’m not entirely sure about what is needed to be done. You can still use the pcb of the k8400?
If anybody has the time to make a guide for this, please do Would make it much easier for me and many others with still a lot of questions for this mod.
Cheers!
Hi Markus,
the new design fits now the cooling, but it is too easy to break ( thickness!!!) — also the airchannel to the hot end do have a leakage, an open part.
I use the Simplify3D Software and the Flashforge Dreamer printer, my vertex K8400 is still down until the new Hotends were working.
regards
Wolfgang
[quote=“preuswo”]Hi Markus,
the new design fits now the cooling, but it is too easy to break ( thickness!!!) — also the airchannel to the hot end do have a leakage, an open part.
I use the Simplify3D Software and the Flashforge Dreamer printer, my vertex K8400 is still down until the new Hotends were working.
regards
Wolfgang[/quote]
Hi Wolfgang,
thanks for the Info, i saw that after Printing it some time ago, Problem is that in the lasts weeks i didnt really have much time to modify it and test it again.
starting today i have 1 1/2 weeks of Holiday so i hope i will find time to fix it
I’ll give you a heads up when i have found time to make the modifications
Hi Markus,
Thanks, it is not urgent-- I do have a second printer.
best regards
Wolfgang
[quote=“preuswo”]Hi Markus,
Thanks, it is not urgent-- I do have a second printer.
best regards
Wolfgang[/quote]
Unfortenatly i dont so its in my own interest to get it working, those original fans are driving me crazy, at the beginning it wasnt that loud but after i installed some Motor dampeners the Printer
is now really quit Only the e3d fans are still loud 
Had some time this morning and did some changes to the v2, actually now for me i have a v7 im Printing at this Moment with some walls thickend and some curves repaired so that there are no more holes in it.
2 hours to go and i will see if it fits i will Keep you informed.
btw: i can really recommend stepper Motor dampeners, they cost me about 14 € and decreased the noise of the Printer dramaticly!
best regards
Markus
Hi all, i think this fits into this thread,
i ordered two “E3D-V6 All-metal 3D Printer Extrusion Head Nozzle With Fan” from banggood. You can get this replica for less than 12,50 € each with delivery included to Europe !
They are delivered now (after 11 days) one with 0.3 mm nozzle and the other with 0.4 mm and i am surprised about the quality. Very good CNC-made and totaly complete (you should order the “long distance” type, means that the extruder-motor is part away from the hot-end, so you get the tube and the quick fastening also)
The only rap i can find: there are very smal ridges conditional of manufacturing, easy to remove with a grindstone by hand in a minute.
And the fans don’t have ball bearing, but doesn’t matter, i want one bigger fan for both hot-ends at top of them.
As soon as possible i want to change my printheads, thinking of milling a mount in aluminum …, but i have to produce lot of parts i need for work, vertex is running all the time now.
How was it possible to get along before without a 3D-printer ? :-))
A question to Velleman Support please:
I measured the original heating cartridge of one print head at 13.8 Volt. This means it takes apr. 25 Watt
The E3D will take apr. 50 Watt each at 3.8 Ohm.
Are the heater-outputs and the powersupply of the Vertex strong enough to deliver that apr. 50 Watt additional Power ?
(each 25 Watts more)
Ive read in several places its highly recommended you use the velleman heat cartridges on E3D hotends (or clones).
Let me know if they fit, Im considering ordering a pair of clones as well. I absolutely love the original E3D on my K8200, but 2 of them becomes a bit pricey for the vertex.
Even under normal condition, meaning with the original heaters, the connector can burn…
I have had an issue, while one of the connectors on the main board were bruned.I had to replace the connectors on the mainbaord. But will replace them a second time with some screw connectors like we have for the main power of the circuit board.
The reason is, that oxidation will react with the pins and will lead to extra resitance in the connector.
This can lead to the problem.
So taking twice the current, would not be recommended by me.
You can use the original E3D cartridge if you modify the firmware to limit the current (PID_MAX setting).
AFAICT, in firmware you could at most throttle the average current through PWM. You’d be drawing the full amps, but in short intervals. Im not sure how safe that is, I guess much depends how fast it switches on/off, but why take the chance if you can just reuse the original heating elements?
