E3Dv6 on K8400 (Dual head)

Hmm im still not sure which one to order, i mean normaly i would by the expensive one, but are the cheaper ones really that bad ?

Im Really frustrated with the stock one, it died on me today because the temperature was not taken correctly so the printhead overheated and burned the plastic parts :frowning:

I mean it works once you have set it up but if you print alot and have a badly clogged nozzle and Need to dissamble the nozzle and the temperature sensor, its bound to break quite easily.

this is the second one that broke :frowning: the first time i got a replacement from Velleman wit a new heaterblock and temperature sensor, wich lastet more then a couple of prints but after about 6 months its now broken again and i really dont like the assembly of the heatblock and the nozzle because its really hard to disammble and “repair” or unclog.

So now i will definetly go and get a pair of E3D V6 or maybe 1 at first and then see how it works.

On the e3d nozzles, what is the purpose of the 6 inverted dimples on the hexagonal part ?

I admit the original nozzle looks better but does it really perform better ?

Those represent the nozzle size. It are only 3 in this case and that represents a nozzle size of 0,4mm.

Kind regards!
JeAfKe

[quote=“monza64”]On the e3d nozzles, what is the purpose of the 6 inverted dimples on the hexagonal part ?

I admit the original nozzle looks better but does it really perform better ?[/quote]

I looked into some Reviews and Tests of the chinese copies and the original e3d v6, and it seems that the chinese copies have a bigger Chance of clogging and arent that maintanence friendly because
of the bad Build Quality.

I now ordere my e3dV6 from reprapuniverse.com they are based in netherland and only take 4€ shipping to Germany and the 1,75 e3d V6 with the Bowden cost 72,49€ which i think is a reasonable Price if the Performance and especially the maintanence is easier then with the original hotends.

reprapuniverse.com/catalog/produ … cts_id=307

Hi everyone, so i ordered my e3d V6 hotends and they were shipped today so that im hoping for them to arrive in 2-3 days.

But i stillt have some ??? in my head, i hope you can help me clear those :slight_smile:

i read through all 5 pages of this thread and stillt im not completly sure if i can use the e3d v6 heater cartridges (40W) or should use the original ones (20W) ?

and besides that were on the Mainboard? or power supply did you guys power the fans for the e3d ? i think someone said that there should be a free 12v conncector but im not sure if on the Mainboard or the powersupply.

and at last, the resistor i have to Change is the one that sits on top at the end of the board that is over the hotends right ? i will go and buy a 80 ohm resistor tomorrow so that im prepared when the hotends arrive.

Sorry for all the questions, but i just wanna make sure im doing everything right when installing the e3ds.

Im thinking about doing some quick instructions after finishing the modifications for all that are as confused as im at this Moment ^^

The heater cartridges have a constant minus and the thermistors have a constant positive pole. So I just hooked it to those with a 22 or 10 ohm can’t remember exactly resistor in series. So when the psu turns on the fan turns on. I just hooked the 40 watt heaters without anything extra up to a homemade new pcb with decent terminals. And a extra terminal for the constant on fan. (the stock ones could melt due a higher current) Only did a pid tuning and changed those values in the firmware.

Kind regards
JeAfKe

[quote=“jeafke”]The heater cartridges have a constant minus and the thermistors have a constant positive pole.[/quote]Seems to be the opposite from the schematics :wink:

Totally tight Raby! That’s why I thought making a schematic would clarify some of my mambo jambo :wink:
But I guess you’ll get the point… If it sucks instead of blows… Well… That’s cool for me in certain cases :smiley: :smiley:

Kind regards
JeAfKe

[quote=“jeafke”]The heater cartridges have a constant minus and the thermistors have a constant positive pole. So I just hooked it to those with a 22 or 10 ohm can’t remember exactly resistor in series. So when the psu turns on the fan turns on. I just hooked the 40 watt heaters without anything extra up to a homemade new pcb with decent terminals. And a extra terminal for the constant on fan. (the stock ones could melt due a higher current) Only did a pid tuning and changed those values in the firmware.

Kind regards
JeAfKe[/quote]

thanks for the quick headsup :slight_smile:

i took a pice of paper and tryed to remenber what i learned back in School, if my calculations are right the Fan of the E3d V6 has 12V and 0.15A so the resistor schould take 3V/0.15A so basicly like you said 22 Ohm would be the next best alternativ. then just solder it in series with the fan and connect the one with the resistor to the + connector (pwr - red in your Picture) and the other one to the minus connector (pwr - blue in the schematics) and do the same with the second fan and they should automaticly start when i plugin the Printer right ?

and for the heater cartridges you didnt use any resistor because they are already 12v on the Mainboard and you only used a custom pcb because you think the higher Current could kill the connectors on the Extruder board right ?

i hope i know have everything right and can prepare for when the hotend will be shipped.

where did you get your connector for the heater cartridges ? eBay ? do you have a Picture of your assembly im not completly sure yet what Kind of connector i wanna use.

thanks again very much for all the help an clarifications :slight_smile: even thoug i learned all that stuff in School its already 5-6 years ago and havent used it really before getting a 3d Printer :slight_smile:

edit:

has someone tryed to use something like this thingiverse.com/thing:839620 to gain back the lost mm on the x-axis ? maybe with this fanduct we could get rid of the small fan all together and not loose anything on the axes ?

I forgot to take pictures when I assembled the PCB and traced it with solder…
Didn’t make any schematic except drawing it on the pcb before connecting the pads with solder.
But getting a volt meter and measuring between all the pins on the head-pcb is easiest. So you don’t need to add any extra wiring.
The Radial fan I reused as a print cooler and is just connected like before and can be controlled with G-code (It does not turn on when power on)
I used these SCREW02PG5 terminals rated 10A@300V
I used small BTWS1X2 connectors for the thermistors and fans (Which are UTTER CRAP to mount correctly btw!!! DO NOT BUY THESE!)

This is how it looks (It’s a chimera not a V6 but its all identical except for the heatsink & kraken heatbreak.)



Kind regards
JeAfKe

1 Like

thx for the Pictures, i see you installed 2 leds, i guess u use them to see if the heatcartridge is beeing powered at the Moment ?

did you put those in series ?

After all this confusion i think now i know everything i Need to start :slight_smile: thx again

Erm no in parallel with the cartridge but the led needs a 440 ohm resistor in serie but Velleman has a schematic how the original board is wired I used that as a guide line together with a multimeter to get it all like it should be.

Kind regards
JeAfKe

Its done :slight_smile: i finished the modifications 30 minutes ago and im Printing the vertex keylogochain at the Moment, everything Looks fine at the Moment :slight_smile:

thx for all the help, i was really confused at first but then everything was quite easy in the end :slight_smile:

At the Moment im still using the vertex heatcartridges i will Exchange them on a later time, but they work quite fine even if they are slower.

And i connected the E3D Fans directly to the free Slot on the 15V PSU and mounted a resistor in series for the fans so everything is working perfectly :slight_smile:

Only Thing is left is to calibrate the second nozzle which is currently too high, but i forgot to print the second filler so no calibrating at the Moment ^^

Here are some Pictures i took from my assembly:

Nice job enjoy it!

Kind regards
JeAfKe

Is there somebody here that can print those mounts in ABS?
I am currently waiting for the e3Dv6 but I don’t have ABS to print the mounts…

Dylan

As I’m only printing with ABS I can do it for you.

That would be great! However, there’s no PB on the this forum.
I think e-mail would be the best option.
Do you know how much money it will cost (approximately)?
Since we both live in Belgium, shipping will be cheap :slight_smile:

I think this mount is the best: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:750821

Dylan

[quote=“minitreintje”]Do you know how much money it will cost (approximately)? [/quote]I think 5€ shipping included will do.

[quote=“minitreintje”]I think this mount is the best: thingiverse.com/thing:750821[/quote]The design is OK. I’m less happy with the fan duct ; it takes a lot of place. Something like this one : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1196270 should take less space as the fan is lower than the belts. Of course it can’t be used as is and a new design is needed.

The fan duct is optional, I can use other fan ducts I guess?
Price is great, my email:

dylan (point) van (point) assche
(at) protonmail (point) com

Replace the spaces and (…) with the right symbol.

Dylan

Dear all,
I have been thru all pages and would like to wrap everything together as far as I understood it right:

  1. buy the original E3D V6
  2. we can use the provided heater from E3D (one say YES, one say NO)
  3. we can use the E3D fans with the original K8400 PCB on the print head
  4. we can use the E3D thermistor as provided

We have to adjust some voltage for the fans, even if I am thinking, that 15V would not kill the fans.

But to be on the save site, we should use the K8400 heaters.

Did I missed one, or did I mixed it up?

Best
Frank