I struggle to think why a change of hotend should influence the adhesion to your bed. I would have thought that it is more likely that you have contaminated it with grease etc in installing the new hotends. I think buildtak recommend rubbing alcohol to clean it and advise against acetone.
I only used my buildtak a couple of times before installing a heat bed with a glass plate. I started out using PVA glue stick (Pritt Stick) with good results for both PLA and ABS but now I just us a PVA wash for PLA and an ABS slurry for ABS. I heat the bed to 55 degrees and wipe it three or four times between it drying. I have a gap between the nozzle of about 0.2mm and a temperature of 198 for PLA and 65 for the bed. It seems to work every time and leaves a good finish on the bottom layer. The nozzle is the standard e3d with a 0.4 mm diameter and 0.2 (0.2025) layer height. I don’t understand why people use more expensive surfaces when using glass and PVA solution (1:9) is so cheap and effective.
Increasing print temp and reduce fan speed has improved adhesion a lot. I guess that the new fan duct is just a bit too effective. I’m now printing at 80mm/s, 215° and fan at 50%. 0.2mm between head and bed.
I’m still fiddling with retraction settings though - there’s occasional hair strings and a few small blobs.
only a question-- my e3dv6 works, but how I can limit the x and y ( 20mm and 25mm) movement in the config-- home position is fine ( x end switch moved 20mm to left)-- but the x axis movement do not stop on left at 20mm and y axis movement not on front 25mm–?
So I was planning to print rrekwa: thingiverse.com/thing:750821 parts but currently my printer is broken down and I have had trouble fixing the current hotend.
I have already ordered the E3Dv6 hotends and wondered if I could print rrekwa’s parts with maybe shapeways or maybe someone here could print the parts for me? (I will pay you ofc.)
[quote=“Migon”]So I was planning to print rrekwa: thingiverse.com/thing:750821 parts but currently my printer is broken down and I have had trouble fixing the current hotend.
I have already ordered the E3Dv6 hotends and wondered if I could print rrekwa’s parts with maybe shapeways or maybe someone here could print the parts for me? (I will pay you ofc.)[/quote]
Hi migon, Where do you live?
I have a small 3d printing business, and maybe can make the parts for you.
[quote=“ichbinsnur”]
Sorry, but i live in Germany, shipping to Sweden is out of reach for me.[/quote]
Sorry to hear that you cannot ship to Sweden, any reason why? I have had no problems with shipping Germany/Sweden in the past and I would pay for the shipping.
I am going to upgrade also my extruder to a E3Dv6.
I am looking for a good mount. I only need 1 extruder however, most designs are made for 2 extruders…
@ruessel
Your mount is completely in metal? Can you post some detailed pictures how it works?
I would be easier to buy a sheet of metal then printing in ABS (I don’t have a roll of ABS laying around here and metal is much better then plastic)
after another Thermistor died on me because the cable got fried while trying to deassemble the printhead, im thinking about changing the hotend to a e3d one.
Were did you guys buy your e3d hotend ? i found 2 on Ebay, but they have quite the difference in Price, can you tell me which is better and which one i should buy ?
I ordered a cheap one from Aliexpress, I will let you guys know if it’s usable or not. However I can’t compare with an original one since I don’t have a genuine.
If you get the chinese working as you had intended I would say go ahead. But this is my experience with the stuff. Could be I ordered the biggest crap around and their is better Chinese stuff available…
Idk, at first I felt the original e3d stuff was crazy expensive and ordered myself 2 cheap v6 heads… They looked okay to me but because I would loose so much x and y build-space I just dropped the idea of mounting them… So I bought my an original e3d chimera hot-end which I felt was crazy expensive… But after opening the original package my jaw dropped… The nozzles, heat-breaks, heater-block, heater cartridge and heat-sink are just incomparable with the Chinese stuff! The original stuff is just so fucking perfect by the looks, but taking your calliper and measuring everything its just all machined within a 0,001mm³ margin. The Chinese nozzles by instances are a big quality difference, the original have a perfect smooth flat bottom (side touching the heat-break), the Chinese are curved which IMHO are prone to leakage. The Chinese heat-breaks aren’t the exact dimensions as in the datasheet etc… Also keep in mind most chinese come with a ptfe lined heatbreak! Most arent really “Full Metal” you need to order separate 2mm bored heat-breaks to use them without ptfe tube that touches the hot nozzle.
If I would know before I would never bought the Chinese stuff and went straight for the original stuff.
Ill post some pictures regarding the nozzles which are a easy comparison.
I’m now printing at 80mm/s, 215° and fan at 50%. 0.2mm between head and bed.
