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admin, can we have private messaging?!
For now I let the topfan in place… and as soon as I take it apart I will give it a good look and perhaps change the resistor…
Now it is sometimes easy to push the head around by grabbing the fan 
For now I let the topfan in place… and as soon as I take it apart I will give it a good look and perhaps change the resistor…
Now it is sometimes easy to push the head around by grabbing the fan :-)[/quote]
I would advise that you remove your post or at least your email address to avoid spammers. I have put the files on thingyverse. Let me know how you get one
[quote=“rrekwa”][quote=“mhensen”]if you want you can send it directly to my email hensen10(at)gmail.com? as there is no private message option…
admin, can we have private messaging?!
For now I let the topfan in place… and as soon as I take it apart I will give it a good look and perhaps change the resistor…
Now it is sometimes easy to push the head around by grabbing the fan :-)[/quote]
I would advise that you remove your post or at least your email address to avoid spammers. I have put the files on thingyverse. Let me know how you get one[/quote]
Top thanks… will take a look right away!!
I forget to mention that small fan duct is inclined at 20 degrees so when you print it, do so vertically and adjust the y axis in repetier by 20 degrees to put it flat on the bed.
Parts are printed and they look a lot sturdier then all other solutions…
Will have to wait for some more time so that I can replace the resistor … I guess it is the one standing upright at the lefthand back corner next to the condensator…
What you have as distance? I got 31mm
Do I need the part xy2_filler.stl??! As I don’t see where this should fit…
Yes that is correct as is the ditance which is 4 to 5mm wider than the existing hot end, but if I had put them any closer they would be touching the 8mm bar.
You strip the head down to the top plastic block, then insert the infills so that you have a flat solid surface. They must not sit pround. If they do either sand a bit off or modify the file and print them gain. You then put the mount your have made with the adjusting screw and their nuts already loosely fitted. Then you put extruder board on top and I made another peice about 2mm to sit on that so the screws didn’t dig into the board. If I have time later on I’ll send it to you. Bye the way I sent you an email did you get it?
Thanks for posting this! I’m printing the parts now and the hot end will be delivered this afternoon. Can’t wait! The original hot end has begun to leak a little melted plastic just above the heater so it’s really singing on the last verse.
I think I posted an earlier version of the support piece. By that I simply mean that there is a recessed hexagon to hold the nut that goes in the middle when you attach the bracket. In the version I posted that hole to get the nut in is at the bottom. It isn’t a problem as long as the nut is a tight fit, otherwise there is a danger you will push the nut out when putting the crew in and not be able to fasten that screw. Unfortunately there is no private messaging service on this forum otherwise I would send you the correct version with the holeat the top. When I get round to it I will post the correct version on thingiverse. Any problems let me know and I will see if I can help you
PS. Did you note that I posted a replacement xy2 carriage block with recessed nuts so that you can do all the adjustment from the top
I downloaded what’s on http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:750821 today, so that would be the latest I guess. A question: what screw dimensions do I need to get beside the four M3x60mm? For holding the little fan, and the adjustment screws?
If you are referring to the support you screw down with the long 3mm screws then no it is not, as I said I will post it when I get time which should be later on this afternoon. You will need three 25mm cap screws to clamp the e3d heats between the support piece and the bracket. You will also need four M3 cap screws for the adjustment/ I used 25mm as I had them but you could shorter ones. If I recall correctly the support piece is 11.85mm thick so I would guess that anything over 10mm would be fine.
I have posted the revised file and I suggest that when you print it you turn it upside down so that the four hexagon recesses are facing upwards.
Thanks! Will print later. Out shopping for screws right now.
Don’t forget you will need to make an extension piece for the x axis stop as the overall width on the x axix is reduced by 25mm so the stop need to extend the arm by around half this amount. You also need to make the appropriate changes in the config the file and ideally change the 10 ohm resistor on the extruder board to 80 ohms. If you don’t the small fan will be fed with 14.5v. I only had a 56 ohm resistor at hand but that dropped the voltage,if I recall correctly, by about 2.7v so my little fan gets 12.3 rather than 12v
Finally got hold of some M3x60mm… I also changed the resistor to 80 ohms. One more question: where did you connect the fan that cools the hot end? It should be on always but there’s no always-on-12V on the extruder board, is it?
I just used a 12v supply I had hanging around for a modem, If I recall correctly the fan only draws 60mA. If you don’t have one then you can pick them up from ebay very cheaply. One bit of advice, have it so it comes on with the power to the printer otherwise you will eventually forget to switch it on and block your hot end as the filament swells in the PTFE tube. Also don’t turn it off until the temperature has dropped below the melting point, or again, you will block hot end.
How did you get on with the mount?
Has anybody had to change the firmware stall for this mod does the e3d thermistor and everything work with normal pids , also what print settings are people using after mod , I’ve noticed extrusion amount has always been way off when I issue a command to extrude say 50mm , are people starting calibrating 8400 from beginning as any other reprap or using std settings ?
I used the thermistor that came with the e3d and re-used the velleman heater. I didn’t play with the PID and the heating side seems to work fine. With respect to the firmware I only changed the parameter relevant to the print shape and home position. As for settings I use 198 with PLA 70% flow and 1.01 scaling. I am quite happy with the results. What was critical was the cooling so I initially made a duct but have changed that to a different set up now.
Which mount did you use for the e3d?
I finally got time and spare energy to complete the migration to an E3D hotend, hold in place by rrewka’s design. The modification to my printer was to move the X axis stop end detector (drilled new holes for it and moved it 19mm to the left so the print head fan won’t smash in to the Y axis rod. I also added a regulated 12V supply for that fan so it’s always on when the printer is on. No changes to the firmware was needed (I have only one printhead and didn’t have to limit X travel).
I changed the Simplify3D setting to have a retraction of max 2mm (as per the guidance from E3D) and print PLA at 200°C. The first print just came out and is just about perfect. Yay!
The only negative thing is that the fan for the print head is quite noisy. But I can live with that.
I used the rrekwa design also its pretty good I printed all the design and had ago myself and it was defo the best mount I also only have one head at moment, mainly print abs and I think I need to mess more with this setup , I had it pretty dialled in before
im using the heater and thermistor from e3d and hAVe not change firmware yet the thermistor seems set on 5 and that’s same as e3d I tink
is simplify 3d worth it ive heard many talk about it
Have made a number of test prints with new head now and generally the quality is very good. One thing though: the adhesion of PLA to Buildtak is much less than with the old head. I have 0.2mm between head and bed. What settings for first layer height, width, speed and temperature have you had success with?