Hi,
I´m new to this with 3d-printing and i haven´t even got my printer to work yet but i´m allready thinking of upgrading to E3D V6.
My question is which version are you using? I´m looking on this site e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit and there are some differens to them, which should i choose?
You need the e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/v6-3mm-Direct
You will also have to print the fixture for it to fit the K8200.
Regards
Ok, thank you. Do you have a link to the fixture?
Kuraasu’s E3D mount :
My Inlay rework/mount for E3D and flex filaments :
enjoy!
ichbinsnur ! is the E3D hotend really better than the stock hardware ?
am really interresting by changing it.
how is your printing quality now with the hotend and the 8204 kit ? could you please post some pics of a piece that you are proud of ? 
thank you
I just finished printing the parts for mounting my K8204 leadscrew with hanging z axis.
I’ll post pictures of it during the day.
If it all works as it should i thik i’ll try some spiral vase thing and post the result.
And about the E3D, Yes, it is absolutely better 
Especially if you want to print materials that need high nozzle temps, such as ninjaflex.
I am thinking about all kind of upgrades of my K8200.
One of them is a E3D v6 hotend, I have heared both great and bad stories about it.
The good:
-Prints great, good quality
-Lost of nozzle sizes
The bad:
-Filament jams (seem to be related to the cooling of the first heatsink rib)
-Filament leakage after some time.
I have read some things about the fact that is vital to heat the unit to at least 300 C before first use.
Regarding the filament jams I read conflicting things; One needs to use the standard Fan and mount as the airflow seems to be vital for good operations. The other that the original cooling is not sufficient and that the first rib is not cooled suffiently.
Can any one relate to these issues ?
Or share experiences / insights ?
Thanks,
Robin
I have the E3D v6 running on my k8200 for 3 month now.
I print about 5 to 8 hours every workday.
The only nozzle clogging i experienced so far was caused by bad (impure) filament.
I use the stock E3D fan with its stock mounting clamp.
The hotend is mounted to the extruder with this part : thingiverse.com/thing:548827
Make sure to let the heatbreak fan on till the hotend is cooled down after printing and don’t use
too high retraction length, as with that the molten filament would jam, being pulled up in the heatbeak.
I use 1mm retraction for all othet materials than NinjaFlex, for which i use 3mm because of the higher compressibility.
I had no leaking thus far.
If you tighten the nozzle against the heatbreak (careful not to bend or break it) instead of tightening it
against the heater block, leaking should normally not occur. I change nozzles frequently and never had any leakage.
cheers,
Christian
Hi Christian,
I’m using the E3DV6 also for some time and can confirm that it is a real improvement on the K8200.
I made a lot of prints without already and had no problems with it.
Only question I have is about your designed mount for the hotend.
At the moment I use Kuraasu’s version, which works fine, however I have some problems in getting the filament into the extruder, because it is normaly bend coming from the spool.
I noticed you made a new filament guide on top of the extruder, does this help solve the issue of getting the filament straight into the hotend without twirling around to find the hotend entrance ?
Well, i got an E3Dv6 and i got jamming problems.
Jamming only happened when i printed innofil3d. Printing with igo3d, velleman or esun (Hobbyking) filament works fine.
Maybe it’s because this filament is about 2.96-3.02 mm in diameter but i think it’s because this filament needs a bit higher temperatures to print and tends to “grow” more than other filaments. First, i tried to install a second fan that sucks the air out of the heatsink. That didn’t solved the jamming. I tried to mount the original Fan lower for better cooling of the first heatsink, too. I think jamming is not a cooling problem because the area it jams is the point where the noozle and the heatbreak touch. And that point is inside the heater block and not inside the cooled area inside the heatbreak.
Long story, short, i drilled my noozle a bit bigger. I think the problem is the difference between the diameter of the heatbreak and the noozle at the point where both touch inside the heaterblock.
You can read more about this here: forum.e3d-online.com/viewtopic.p … t=90#p1735
I drilled my noozle up to 3.55-3.65mm. After drilling it up i printed a 12 hours print with the same filament that jammed before. I think the problem is gone.
However, i am disappointed about the accuracy of the heatbreak. If the diameter of the heatbreak would be 3.2mm as it is shown in the E3D documents, there probably wouldn’t be any jamming problems in the first place.
Let’s talk about the good things.
It’s a nice hotend. It prints very good quality. You don’t need a lot of retract because the area where the filament melts is very short. I don’t have any oozing.
I would say the biggest advantage of the E3Dv6 is that it’s really easy to switch between different noozles.
You should buy it if you don’t care spending the money. If you got jamming problems you can solve them by drilling the noozle, but the majority of E3Dv6 Owners don’t get any jamming. It looks like jamming depends on the filament, too.
I don’t think a jhead is a real alternative to an all metal hotend.
But, there is one hotend you may look at:
It’s a simple china metal hotend that seems to work pretty good.
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=12705
youtube.com/watch?v=Fv7Gkp8-Mh8
I don’t have any experience with this hotend. You could try to ask the user m600 for details in the thread posted above.
Don’t get me wrong, i don’t want to say that the E3Dv6 is crap, but i expected it to be a bit better considering what i paid for it and the time i needed to get rid of the jamming problems.
Now, i am really happy with it and i wouldn’t change it.
@Guzzler: To change the filament: First, you should cut the tip of the filament you want to insert to ensure it’s not bigger than the overall filament diameter. Second, bend the first 5 to 10cm to get it straight. If your filament breaks while bending you can heat it a bit with a lighter, then bend it. Still problems? Check the washer you printed to mount the E3Dv6 Hotend. Try to drill the hole of the washer a bit bigger.
Hi Guzzler,
my extruder inlay rework was mainly designed to print flexibles, but it also works well on any other filament i printed until now.
I had the same problem as you describe when i first mountet my E3D with kuraasu’s mount.
But that is more a problem of the filament guide the stock extruder comes with.
If the heatbreak bore and filament “outlet” of the extruder are not properly aligned the filament can hook up
in the small edge where hotend and extruder meet. (sepecially if the filament is bent)
My part exactly centers and aligns the filament guide and the hotend.
That (what i found) makes it lots easier to insert bent filaments.
As cantax mentioned, you sould cut of the molten part from trhe filament tip to get it in easy.
cheers,
Christian
Well, i had no issues with it at all. (knock on wood) 
Perhaps you got a bad manufactured one. I heard about manufactoring problems with the heatbreaks.
But it seems they have solved that now.
Thanks guys for the advise.
I’m sure the issue I have is related to the fact that heatbreak and extruder inlay are not fully alligned (or diameters are not exactly matched).
I always remove the fillament when ready, just because leaving it on the machine it will break it after a while.
So before I start a new day of printing I cut about 10cm of fillament, molten part and the part where the extruder bolt made grooving.
I noticed indeed that straighten up the fillament before inserting it in the extruder helps, but trying to straight the fillament at the end of a spool is a drag…
I store my fillament rols in airtight boxes (cookie jars) with bags of silicagel powder. The humidity in the box is measured about 5%.
So I can bend the fillament almost to all directions without breaking it.
I will surely try your mounts Christian, I will print then this weekend.
Best regards,
Guzz
Nice to hear, Let me know how it works for you.
cheers,
Christian
Thanks for all the info.
@Cantax:
Sure the price matters, but I do not want to buy imitation stuff and run into all kinds of problems, just to save € 15 or so.
Because than cheap becomes expensive as I then will need to buy the original anyways.
/
Its good to hear that most of the posted problems were related to production issues, that are resolved by now.
Which should mean that when I buy one, the heartbreak jamming issues are gone.
The oozing reductions sounds really great as I have loads of problems with it on my original hotend.
Do not seem to be able get rid of it by fiddling with the temperature and retract settings, so I have stringing and blobs on my prints that I need to remove manually (but this could also be worstend by old crappy filament which breaks once a day…)
Have some test pieces of prime filament laying around but want to print some needed parts before I try and fiddle with the good stuff… Which might fry my original hotend due to the high temp specs, and then I need an E3D asap ; )
Best regards,
Robin
Here is my experience with it so far:
I had jamming and leaking issues at the start, I followed an instruction video on youtube that wasn’t an official one from E3D and that is where my problems were.
The Jamming issues were solved by changing the retract distance to 0.8mm, as recommended by E3D.
The leaking issues were solved by heating up the heatblock when tightening the nozzle against the heatbreak. I found I was able to get half a turn out of the nozzle when things were heated up!
I now have very few jamming issues, the only jamming issues I have had are when I have changed the filament and stuffed it up.
Thanks for the feedback.
By change I watched some videos about the same subject yesterday.
Its good too read that this solves the most prominent issue with the E3D v6, filament jams.
Which extruder mount are you using ?
I just printed this one.
thingiverse.com/thing:411716
Best Regards,
Robin
That’s the one I am using and it works fine, I just had to file away a little bit at the back to get it to fit properly but it holds the V6 quite snugly with no movement.
First time i heard that lowering retract distance solved jamming.
Another thing i don’t get is that you set your Esteps to about 800steps/mm.
For me and my stock extruder ( new hobbed bolt ), i use about 615steps/mm.
This is no critisism, i am just surprised how different the solutions for the same problem can be.
That’s a nice mount. I wanted to use this mount but didn’t because i didn’t wanted to disassemble my Extruder.
If you use this mount: thingiverse.com/thing:349095
You can use the two screws of the stock hotend to mount it without disassemble the extruder.
Lowering the retract value works on the V6 because of the way its designed. The hot part of the hot end is everything below the heat break, so if you retract too far you could have melted plastic enter in the cooler part of the heatsink where it will cool down slightly, then it gets pushed back down with quite a force. It ended up causing large blobs to form within the heatbreak tube that I had to drill out at one point. Since going to 0.8mm retract (I was on 5mm) I have had no jamming issues.