I’m using the E3D v6 (3mm direct) for quite a while now.
The retraction distance is set to 1mm and the e-steps are 694.00 with the stock extruder.
If you set the retraction to more than 2mm you are likely to pull the molten filament into the cold part of the heatbreak
making it stick there and block the hotend. Normally 1mm should be way enough.
The only jams (in real clogged nozzle) i had so far were causes by bad (impure) filament.
cheers,
Christian
Well, there’s a huge difference between 5mm and 0.8mm. I use 1.4mm retract. 1.3mm is just a little too less. I really tried to get it as low as possible without any blobs.
Don’t you two (ichbinsnur and cpmedia)think it’s weird that we three set the Esteps that different although we all use the Stock Extruder? Well, i changed my hobbed bolt, but that needed just about 5 Steps to compensate.
Ichbinsnur: 694 Steps/mm
cpmedia: 800 Steps/mm
cantax: 615 Steps/mm
I work with the exact right size of the filament and a Multiplier of 1.0 (100%).
Did velleman ship the K8200 kit with different hobbed bolts? Otherwise cpmedia would extract about 30% more filament than me.
Perhaps the difference is caused by combined mechanical differences in the gear and hobbed bolt.
I tend to set the filament diameter to 3mm fix and set the extrusion by changing the multiplier.
This gives better reults most times.
The retraction length itself (if not set too high) is less critical than the retraction speed.
I set it to 150mm.
cheers,
Christian
That’s interesting. I set my retraction speed to 35mm/s. Before that, i set it really high but then startet again with a low value and slightly rise it to the speed that is the minimum necessary retraction speed. That was before i solved my jamming problems, but this had nothing to do with it.
Here’s an example. A birdfeeder i printed and needed a looooooot of retract.
thingiverse.com/thing:359618
printed with esun filament (glow in the dark green)
retraction speed: 35mm/s
retraction distance: 1.4mm
I am really satisfied with the print result.
Hi Christian,
just to let you know, your reworked E3D mount fits like a glove and works perfect.
PLA en NinjaFlex slide in smoothly, no problems anymore with feeding the filament into the extruder.
Thanks for the design.
We did a replacement on two K8200 printers without any issues.
cheers,
Guzzler
[quote=“Guzzler”]Hi Christian,
just to let you know, your reworked E3D mount fits like a glove and works perfect.
PLA en NinjaFlex slide in smoothly, no problems anymore with feeding the filament into the extruder.
Thanks for the design.
We did a replacement on two K8200 printers without any issues.
cheers,
Guzzler[/quote]
Nice to hear it workes for you too.
Did you guys order a new hobbed bolt from Velleman, or did you buy a standard reprap hobbed bolt?
I found this 3deksperten.dk/m8-hobbed-bolt.html and it looks like it would work. What do you think?
If anyone has an idea how to improve the standard hobbed bolt, that would be great to.
/Peter
[quote=“EmracingDK”]Did you guys order a new hobbed bolt from Velleman, or did you buy a standard reprap hobbed bolt?
I found this 3deksperten.dk/m8-hobbed-bolt.html and it looks like it would work. What do you think?
If anyone has an idea how to improve the standard hobbed bolt, that would be great to.
/Peter[/quote]
I still use the stock hobbed bolt with my E3D mount.
Although i cut the teeth a little deeper (with a Dremel and a thin cutting disc) to sharpen the corners.
That gives nice extrusion results and the filament didn’t grind or slip anymore sice i did.
cheers,
Christian
Hi
What voltage are people ordering the E3D in, given that the K8200 supply voltage is in the middle?
Neil.
[quote=“NW27”]Hi
What voltage are people ordering the E3D in, given that the K8200 supply voltage is in the middle?
Neil.[/quote]
I would choose the 12v heated one.
I use it with the E3D 12v heater for over a Year now, without problems.
cheers,
Christian