Well if you intend to use the 12V for the heatbed only then yes it is enouph. It is larger then needed for it.
nopsā¦rather replaceā¦I still might try to reuse a pc psu 
think i still a 350W laying around
Found a doc around today explanningā¦
I changed the 15V original with a 15V 500W PSU at 80EUR.
I took the 500W for further use with different improvmeents
The 15V to the heat bed is ok, it warms up in a few minutes, connected as with 12V.
No prob at all.
The MeanWell PSU RSP-320-15 costed me about 60 euroās.
https://www.meanwell-web.com/nl/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=rsp-320-15&search_in_description=1
The MeanWell PSU RSP-320-15 costed me about 60 euroās.
https://www.meanwell-web.com/nl/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=rsp-320-15&search_in_description=1[/quote]
Just got the price on that oneā¦121 eurosā¦Welcome to Portugal
Thatās weird. Try another internet shop. Mouser.com; Alibaba; Conrad, they all can deliver this PSU.
I bought mine here: http://www.koningenhartman.nl/nl/webshop/industrie/industriele-voedingen/ac-dc-industriele-voedingen/mean-well-ac-dc-psu-rsp-320-15-enclosed-15v-214a Donāt know if they deliver in Portugal, but you can alwayās tryā¦ By the way, delivery time is about a month. (Itās all made in China 
Thatās weird. Try another internet shop. Mouser.com; Alibaba; Conrad, they all can deliver this PSU.
I bought mine here: http://www.koningenhartman.nl/nl/webshop/industrie/industriele-voedingen/ac-dc-industriele-voedingen/mean-well-ac-dc-psu-rsp-320-15-enclosed-15v-214a Donāt know if they deliver in Portugal, but you can alwayās tryā¦ By the way, delivery time is about a month. (Itās all made in China :)[/quote]
Portugal has a 23% VATā¦However I like this store so I donāt mind the difference. Iām counting to have 1 by the end of next week
distrelec.nl/en/switched-mod ā¦ ggest=true
Distrelec have it for 65 Euro in the netherlands
eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean ā¦ uDt4RWmQ==
Mouser have it for 62,70 Euro
// Marlark
[quote=āMarlarkā]http://www.distrelec.nl/en/switched-mode-power-supply-321-output-mean-well-rsp-320-15/p/11041318?queryFromSuggest=true
Distrelec have it for 65 Euro in the netherlands
eu.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean ā¦ uDt4RWmQ==
Mouser have it for 62,70 Euro
// Marlark[/quote]
mauser.pt/catalog/product_in ā¦ s_id=71876 at ā¬109ā¦
@Marlark:
Confirming the arrival of heatbed.
Now I just need the PSU and waiting on PE and thermistor.
@svdv and @marlak in your pdf guide there isnāt a word mentioned about bridging pad 2 and 3 otherwise only 1 section gets hot and the other stays cold. At least thatās what mine doesā¦ I could be missing something elseā¦
Thanks for pointing that out ā¦ It is true ā¦ if you use the 12V curcuit you need to bridge the 2 minus pads in this case Pad 2 and 3. works exactly the same on the standard MK3 heatbed like on this one or you will end upp with a half side heated pad.
Might be a good idea to add that Svdv in your PDF file.
// Marlark
I still have alot of bedās left so if someone want one it is just to contact me. Going to take a while before i run out of them i think 
Thanks Jeafke, I edited the instruction to v2. See my original reply previously in this post on page 7.
Good job svdv!
Just a quick question, what did you guys use to solder those pads? The heatbed absorbs the heat so fast its nearly impossible to solder those with a 45watt solder station, not even with my gas powered pen soldering tool. I had to go out and buy a cheap 80 watt iron which just nearly could heat them up, but just like I wanted it toā¦ Like let the iron max out, touch the pad add solder and the iron got stuck rofl! But it worked out eventually not perfect as I wanted it toā¦ But it worksā¦ Itās a thing new folks keep in mindā¦ BTW Iām not a soldering Virgin Iām just not used to this heavy stuffā¦ Only small tiny smd stuffā¦
Kind Regards
JeAfKe
I used a 48W soldering iron on 350-400 degrees C. It took about 20 minutes to reach this temperature, but it worked. I had soldered the wire-ends beforehand, that helped, I think.
Customized the ABS cable-connection also. More room for the bridge-wire. Widened it just between the aluminium cut-out of the bed-plate.
Success
I also used a 48W temp controlled unit for it. Took about 10 min for me. But i solder a lot so i have a lot of practice in the fingers. The trick is getting a little solder on the pad and keeping the heat up. Wish is not easy with the aluplate transfering the heat away. In my case i used a heatgun to help with that. I just made a simple contraption to hold the plate laying the heatgun on the table and aiming it on the backside of the plate and then soldering on the other. PS keep distance between heatgun and plate. Not to close!
// Marlark
Has someone a g code for the single extruder?
Like the one in the manual for dual ewtruder.
@3Design: You lost me on that oneā¦ Maybe (M140 S100) For turning the heatbed on to a 100Ā°C ?) Idfk what it else could be your looking forā¦ Not really anything to do with single or dual extruder though.
On topic: Yeah but Iām not used to keep applying heat to a solder pad 
I lifted to many small ones of them in the past. But just wanted to mention that itās not your regular wire tinning solder job. You need a decent bolt and a slightly different approach. Which I underestimated at first. I had one MK3 (El cheapo aliexpress) and that one soldered way more easy tbhā¦ But I guess this is the quality difference. And this custom one dissipates heat way better.
Kind Regards!
JeAfKe
Yeah i could by a bed from you 
I just bought my vertex printer and is in the middle of assembling it.
And why not upgrade it in the early stage? 