Hi !
i just recently started to use my K8200 and am very satisfied with this product.
it seems that a i dont have a Z wobbling issue like i could see on internet.
but am looking for the impovement for higher precision and best results ! ???
Lets get this post group the best ideas for the k8200 !
will try to test some and post then back!
my suggestion, get a better hotend
Is the hotend that is supplied with the kit unsatisfactory for making precision prints?
Also, my tip is to mont a pane of glass or mirror on the heated bed (which many others have done), this eases calibration and ensures a very even surface
Is the hotend that is supplied with the kit unsatisfactory for making precision prints?
Also, my tip is to mont a pane of glass or mirror on the heated bed (which many others have done), this eases calibration and ensures a very even surface[/quote]
Yep, the stock hotend is quite hard do calibrate.
I use the e3d v6 and have way better prints.
Other mods i did :
Heatbed on secondary 24V power supply and glass plate on the heated bed. (3mm glass and thermal compound between)
Flexible coupler on the z axis rod to almost eliminate banding and wobble.
Better z axis endstop mount and adjustment.
Reworked extruder mount for e3d hotends and printing flex filaments.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:548827
Nice fan Nozzle for cooling fan.
Case for main PCB with cooling fan and heatsinks on the stepper driver modules.
I absolutely confirm
[ul]
[]secondary PSU for the bed is an absolute sanity saver.[/]
[]flexable z axis coupler (I belive these are the ones I got)[/]
[]mirror or glass on the bed as the PCB may not be exactly level[/]
[]reverse the z-stop adjustment screw, it’ll also save you heartache.[/]
[/ul]
I absolutly want to build a better mount for the z-stop switch, a fan nozzle, and I’m considering a e3d v6 hot end.
Scary PSU arrangement (until I can convince it to print a mounting bracket) - excuse the PLA cobwebs, still convincing it to print properly
Z-stop adjustment screw
[quote=“freman”]I absolutely confirm
I absolutly want to build a better mount for the z-stop switch
[/quote]
have a look at this, works great!
[color=#0000FF]http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:400280[/color]
thank you !
will test the glass heat bed theses days.
will aslo try the printed flexible coupler !
and let you know !
i printed this new support for the Z axe :
and now I have heavy Noise when the motor runs x) !!!
i think it’s from the bearing and the rod.
You could try backing the nuts away from the bearing to see if that helps.
And the adjust from there
Do you use a flex coupler for mounting the threaded rod to the motor?
will test adjusting the nuts, thx.
no, no flexible coupler!
i think i will order one theses days.
sorry for the double post.
but did you heard of this before ? https://www.facebook.com/k8400/posts/1496911340592104
K8204 modification kit ? x)
[quote=“xnordz”]will test adjusting the nuts, thx.
no, no flexible coupler!
i think i will order one theses days.[/quote]
That might be the cause.
The rod is likely to bind in the nut if it’s clamped too tight.
[quote]
have a look at this, works great!
thingiverse.com/thing:400280[/quote]
Works very well !
thank’s ichbinsnur !
i also used a glass plate ! and it’s really better !
Next Step : FAN mod !
My most favorite modifications are:
I designed a filament spool support. Works with the original M8 thread-rod filament rack. Makes printing a hole lot smoother and eliminates some danger of “squirts”
Print time around 1h
If only Thingverse would open up and let me upload it 
Will edit this post with link, if Thingverse gods are mercyful…
Nice,
Thank you!
Thank’s !
does we need to print 2 pieces ??
does it really inscrase the quality ? ( squirt issues 
)
I have performed some measurement on it in the past. The maximum force needed to unwind the filament is about 0.2 kgf. This load causes an uplift of about 0.04 mm of the nozzle. So I do not believe that this will influence the print quality significantly.