Can someone point me to where I can get a good z-axis flex coupler and better rod in the U.S.?
Also, there are several z motor holders on thingiverse – any recommendations for which one is best? Thanks
Here is the motor mount I used. It is a little taller than stock so you will need to shim the Z axis nut holder about 1mm. Loosen the Z shaft nut support and see what the gap is and adjust accordingly. Flat washers will work.
thingiverse.com/thing:144813
The Z axis flex coupler is available at Amazon. Just search for 5mm to 8mm flex coupler. Lots to choose from. I have not found a better Z axis shaft yet. I’m considering going to a trapezoidal (ACME thread) shaft in the future. Right now the shaft on my K8200 is pretty straight and is holding up well. I use a drop of Mobil One synthetic oil on it about once a week. If it is good enough for my 370Z it should be good enough for the K8200 :^)
My next mod will be to install the zero backlash z axis nut. thingiverse.com/thing:235494
Good luck!
^^ I use the same Z motor mount, works great.
For the couple, I just used a universal joint off an RC car. i.imgur.com/hwjyPkP.jpg
What exactly does the backlash eliminator accomplish? aren’t all the Z movements, upwards and against gravity? Is backlash really that big of a deal? Or are you doing a Z lift for every move to prevent it dragging across the surface of the print?
Correct, gravity is pulling the Z axis back down but I would like to try a “forced” method to see if it improves the print quality. From my meager experiments I have found that each improvement adds to the quality of the print. I haven’t found any one thing that has made a big difference but they do seem to add up. Plus it is fun to experiment with!
The best mod so far has been the addition of a micrometer to set the Z axis stop switch. It is much easier to make small changes in the z axis using the fine thread adjustment plus it has a lock to keep it set.
I’m yet to find a need for the mic Z axis adjuster. I have a set of feeler gauges that range from 0.03mm up to 1mm which I use to set the Z height and level the bed manually. I find them far better than the “piece of paper under the extruder” method I saw mentioned somewhere. I don’t have any issues getting fine adjustments out of the Z screw stop. Then again, I put the screw in upside down to what the instructions said (like this thingiverse.com/thing:154762 ) so I can adjust it quite easily without having to move the Z axis up or down.
Either way, I also printed the anti backlash thing last night, got it going right now but I honestly can’t see any difference in “up only” printing. Maybe if I went back to doing a Z lift on move it might do something as it brings it back down again.
[quote=“ntoff”]I’m yet to find a need for the mic Z axis adjuster. I have a set of feeler gauges that range from 0.03mm up to 1mm which I use to set the Z height and level the bed manually. I find them far better than the “piece of paper under the extruder” method I saw mentioned somewhere. I don’t have any issues getting fine adjustments out of the Z screw stop. Then again, I put the screw in upside down to what the instructions said (like this thingiverse.com/thing:154762 ) so I can adjust it quite easily without having to move the Z axis up or down.
Either way, I also printed the anti backlash thing last night, got it going right now but I honestly can’t see any difference in “up only” printing. Maybe if I went back to doing a Z lift on move it might do something as it brings it back down again.[/quote]
The anti-backlash part works like a charm on my printer. I noticed a huge difference in the print quality. Much less ridges on the sides of the prints. My printer has seen a lot of hours and the Z axis screw is probably showing some wear by now so you may not see any difference at first but it will help out as the screw shaft wears.
If you ever need to use painters tape to print a small object on, the micrometer mod makes it it simple and quick to adjust for the thickness of the painters tape and back.