Z-axis backlash and 'curved' build platform

Now that I 've printed some first parts successfully I’m trying to calibrate my setup as good as possible. I printed a small mount unit for a measurement gauge to measure the behavior of my z-axis and help the calibration of the build platform. Reason I started this is because I noticed that my build platform is not perfectly flat, it is curved to a maximum of about 0.1mm in the center.

Here are my issues found so far, and where I’m looking for answers:

Z-axis backlash?
I measured the Z-distance per 0.1mm movement and I always see the first ‘layers’ being too thin.
First layer is always 0.06mm, next is 0.07mm, 3rd is 0.07mm and then each layer is a perfect 0.1mm.
I measured this in the center of the build platform with the measurement gauge.

‘Curved’ build platform
Already during the build stage I noticed that my aluminum build platform is curved. I measured 0.35mm difference between the center and the outer edges. In the center the buildplatform would be 0.35mm closer to the print head than on the outside… But because the glass had to be mounted too, I did not worry too much. But I found that after mounting the glass panel I still measured quite some difference between the center and the edges of the platform. I then tried to straigthen the aluminum plate and I added some filler (thick tape) to the corners to release the strain from the glass plate and it helped. But, I still have 0.1mm difference.

First of all, I know this is home-quality equipment, it is not a complaint as I’m very happy so far. But I quickly learned that fine tuning the system, has a great impact on print quality. What can I do to improve the quality of the prints? Is there any option to tell the software about the first 3 layers not being 0.1mm?

Thnks
Erik

This is just a guess.
Have you turned the glad plate over and looked for air bubbles between the glass and the Build Tak sheet?

I’ve noticed the very same on my Vertex. Even when I go very carefully through the calibration process with the folded paper I always end up with a higher central area. I have only printed small parts so far and they all were fine. All where paced in the middle of the build plate. But I will certainly run into problems with lager parts that cover the whole plate.

@Wrong Way: the BuildTak sheet is very precisely attached to the build platform using a film of water to avoid any bubbles.
It is exactly like Zefix says as well, the center is closer to the print head the the outer areas.

I thought of “adjusting” the alu plate by putting the four ledges of the plate under some even roof battens I have laying around and hitting the center of the plate with some heavy hammer…or something similar.

Most likely it is possible to slightly bend the alu plate as you describe. No need for a hammer though…

Nice setup h60! You have nearly made a coordinate measuring machine out of your vertex! :slight_smile: I might have to find myself a gauge too…

hi all with bended plates
I have posted about this in “asembling and …”
I fastened a side of the plate to workbench ,upside down,
and a 10 mm tube under the middle,then pressed down with
both hands on the free edge many times, checking often ,only pushed so the plate bended
and still kept its flexibility
I did this on both edges. and ended up with less than 0,1 mm faults. it was about 0,25 to 0,5 mm in the start
I have now mounted the glass plate and I have about 0,1 mm higher in the middle.
alex in Denmark

I ended up ditching the corner clips and tacking the glass down to the metal with 1cm squares of double-stick foam tape in the corners. The theory is that this will introduce enough distance/play to alleviate any warping influence from misshapen metal. It seems to have improved things, but does anyone see any reason why this solution might be a problem?

[quote=“h60”]@Wrong Way: the BuildTak sheet is very precisely attached to the build platform using a film of water to avoid any bubbles.
It is exactly like Zefix says as well, the center is closer to the print head the the outer areas.[/quote]

Interesting to see this come up again. Like you, I had the same problem and ended up hitting the aluminium plate with a hammer (which does work, but it’s ugly and slow). Padding is probably the right way to go, if you can find something hard to pad with.

But I’m curious to your reference about using a film of water to attach your BuildTak sheet to avoid bubbles - can you explain a bit more what you did?

That sounds like a page from the “how to install window tint film” discipline:
http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/installing-home-window-tint/index.html

It is indeed this application method, spraying a film of water (with one or two drops of soap) on the glass panel and the buildtak before applying it.
Erik

I tried that.
I think I used to much water and a little soap.
Worked pretty well.

Good tip that, thanks. Makes you wonder why Buildtak don’t recommend it.