First of all i would thank you all for the fast replies, good tips and experience you give further on this forum.
On second, i think the K8400 is a great printer for less money, and really have a good price-performance ratio after you got the right settings and everything is calibrated rightly.
So for the second you one i really need your help. After i solved the problems I had, I could started with my first print. The first print wasnt that bad and i wanted to print a 3D Hub Figure as second and ran into new problems. I think there aren’t really problems with the mechanics or the printer itself its more or less a problem with the settings and the repetier host. So I want to answered some questions.
I think the Repetier Host isn’t take my slicer settings to my printer. When I set the filament temp to 200 and started to print, the vertex started to heat up to 210 degrees. An so I have no trust that the printer is using my other settings like flow rate etc… (i used the settings from H60 as i mentioned in the Share your print settings thread -> http://forum.velleman.eu/viewtopic.php?f=61&t=13483). Should i print over SD card? Or how can i verify which settings the printer is really using. Should i start repetier as administrator?
When the printer started the first layer its not extruding well at the auto-home position and started to spread the filament. And so the support bed around the object doesn’t have the right form. And starts to warp. This is going to be better and better and on the 5 layer or so i think it stop to spread and the layers are build proper.
At the 50 layer or so, the nozzle started to stick to the object and the object it self wasn’t sticked anymore to the platform, so the object was attached to the nozzle and the object moved with it.
As is sad, my objects doesn’t stick anymore to the BuildTak, i will try to clean it wit spiritus or a bit of alcohol as i read you shouldn’t touch the bed.
Many thanks and kisses to everyone who is helping my trough this. I really look forward to have a printer which is printing continuous good objects.
To get your prints sticking you must set the nozzle-bed distance to 0.2 mm and of course have a clean surface (you can easily have some oil dripping from the axis).
If you set 200° in your Cura settings you should have that temp in your sliced file. Check the filament settings in Cura.
You mean the calibration with the double folded paper? This should be good, i really check this often with the paper?
Or do you mean a setting in the Repetier
Thats my filament settings. I think i did this right, but as i said heater is heating to 210 degrees.
The Print settings were set to standard values. may i can test H60 print settings today
Speed was set to low
[quote=“crzdg”]Thats my filament settings. I think i did this right, but as i said heater is heating to 210 degrees. [/quote]
This on it’s own isn’t enough - you should be saving these settings with a new name and making sure your new profile is selected for the correct nozzle.
Hmmm, I thought I posted an answer but it seems gone, let’s try again…
I currently calibrate my print head distance to 0.25mm using a feeler gauge. Because my bed is not completely flat, I get 0.25mm on the edges and about 0.15-0.20mm in the center. I then always print my first layer at 0.21mm, with a flow of 110% to squeeze the first layer onto the print bed.
If you are still working with the original extruder settings (flow: 75%) then your first layer might need 82% flow.
Calibrating with a folded paper might easily get you into trouble if you don’t know the physical thickness of the paper.
Normal 80rgs copy paper is about 0.11-0.13mm thick, so folding it 2 times, gives you 0.44-0.52mm distance which is way too much.
First of all, cleaning the bed with window cleaner (witch contains spiritus) really helps to get the buildtak sticking again.
Now i also understand more of the repetier host and the slicer.
Nozzle-bed distance is now set to about 0.2mm (one folded paper)
I tried to print the 3D Marvin key chain, with the settings from H60.
The outline which it print around the object, was printed really proper and smooth.
Then the first layer from the object was a bit of blobby on the first foot of marvin, on the second it was a good one i think.
But then on the second layer i ran into layer shifting. Read about its a mechanical problem and i have to realign the rods and check the tension of the belts.
Could it be that the printing speed from H60 is a bit to high for the start? may lower it, try to get smooth and good shaped print and the increase it step by step?
Think i made a step further. Hope i will soon get a continuous printing printer .
Could manage the shifting on layers with bigger surface and the quality is i mine opinion very good and the settings for H60 works well (i lowered the travel speed a bit to 180mm/s).
But when the printer has to print a a small surfaced layer i ran into the same problem. Will post a picture later.
Is think the printer has to stop, retract, wait and go back to make the next layer that the printed layer can cool down and the filament goes hard. Is this right?
Can I tune this settings under the retract settings? Should I lower the speed there to prevent layer shifting?
sorry for the really bad camera quality, but my iPhone camera is really scrapped. but to show what i mean it should be enough.
