Why install e3d v6?

I see on this forum that several people upgrade their k8200 with a different extruder, the e3d v6. I am looking into the “why” part. In general I am quite content with the stock extruder.

The only one problem I have is that it is hard to print small objects such as a rocket tip or the head of a lego figure. When I was using Slic3r every small thing ended up as one big blob.

Than I switched to craftware which prints significantly slower for smaller parts. You can set in a minimal layer time. Every layer must Always take atleast a certain ammount of seconds to be printed. This resulted in better prints but it still not perfect as the extruder also tends to leak or ooze which eventually results in over-extrusion for the last few layers. So I still get a blob but it is significantly smaller than Slic3r’s blobs.

It is my understanding that the e3d v6 was primarily ment for higher temperatures to print better with ABS, nylon and polycarbonate and it has a smaller nozzle of 0.25mm. Now I print with PLA because it simply works and gives me good prints.

To reduce the leaking or ooze I was thinking more to buy a different nozzle of 0.3mm instead of a new extruder. conrad.nl/nl/sproeikop-03-m … f=Homepage

I understand that a smaller nozzle also means smaller layerheights and as such longer printing times. And smaller nozzle also means smaller perimeters what results in either less stability or more print time.

I suppose that if I want to print small space marines a smaller nozzles would be beneficial, but if I want to print large thunderbirds I suppose I am better off with a bigger nozzle. If I buy the 0.3mm nozzle I can even exchange them with relative ease for when I go from printing TBs to printing space marines.

So other than the ability of printing with more materials and a better resolution (with longer print time) why would I buy a fancy looking active cooled E3d v6 extruder. What is so much better of it when printing with PLA?

The design of the E3D V6 is way better than the stock k8200 extruder’s.

If gives you greatly reduced stringing anb blobbing, as well as much better overall printing performance.
(more consistent flow rate, more controlled heating)
That’s why i bought it in the first place.

It also has a large variety of available nozzle sizes, wich can be handy especially for larger parts.
The all metal design eliminates the failure of plastic hotend parts due to overtemp.
The higher temp range is a nice additional feature.

The melt zone of the stock hot-end is rather large, which is why you tend to get the blobbing and stringing.

Slic3r has settings for minimum layer time, but if your minimum print speed is too high it can’t achieve that time.

Same reasons for my upgrading. The original nozzle is good for the price of the kit but there is always better to be had if you want to spend the money. My prints had gone from strength to strength with the original one but the blobbing was always an issue. e3D was installed and it solved the issue but I had to modify the H configuration file because the heater would overshoot so much it couldn’t even run a calibration test.

Also adjust the retract length in your slicer, if its left as the original setting it will pull the molten filament into the cold part and clog it up.

I see, if I am to print small space marines or lego figures I need a new extruder. Smaller melt chamber allows for less blobbing and oozing. I think I need to buy me one :slight_smile:

@Moorron what I find odd is that Conrad asks 90€ for a loose extruder. And on E3d-online I can get one for 72€ incl VAT and shipping.

Especially the first layer print was extremely better with E3D.
Take care of the cooling, i put 15V at the included 30 mm fan, works good.
I took it from 123-3d.nl

I installed the E3D and wasn’t blown away. The stock extruder is fine, and is designed as part of the kit. The E3D was a pain to install. It has been a pain calibrating the printer again. My prints are not noticeably better.

It might heat up and cool faster, but that isn’t a big deal. You can print higher temps, I think that is the most compelling reason to do it.

As far as mods for the k8200, i’m suspecting the 24v supply for the heatbed is a good one, and upgrading the leadscrew.

I don’t think you’ll notice any improvement using the E3D hotend if you haven’t upgraded the z-axis leadscrew.

It’s kind of like competing noise sources. You can’t hear the noise reduction difference of turning off your car ignition when you are parked next to a jet airplane.

In my opinion, after 2808 hours of printing with the Velleman K8200:

The biggest value upgrade in terms of quality is a dual leadscrew upgrade.
The next one is GT2 x and y belts/pulleys.
The last one would be an E3D hotend (or a K8203, which is what I use)

The biggest convenience upgrade is a 12v and 24v (with mosfet power expander) power supply.
The next would be a raspberry pi/octoprint controller.
The last would be a LED light ring for the extruder.

For me, the biggest improvement after installing E3D was the first layer printing, really much better adhesion than with the stock extruder.

My top 3:

  1. E3D
  2. 24V power supply for heatbed
  3. Flex coupler/trapezoidal leadscrew for Z-axis