Not noticed anything wrong…
Nobody a solution for these circles?
Or motor belts too slack (these ones must be taut not the long ones)
I said that I tightened these motor belts to the ultimate maximum already, way to thight I guess, or can’t they be too tight? Pulley should have to be all good too normally.
Can you set the motor belts too tight? Maybe I can try even harder then?
[quote=“Andreas15”]Maybe I can try even harder then?[/quote]No it’s not necessary.
Maybe it has to be like this, it’s a super small part, so I don’t know, getting more tension on the belts gives me skipping, and the motor belts are maximum, pulley tightened…
I did some more test, I printed something that was 17mm on the X axis and 87mm on the Y axis. The 17 came out as 16,95 (acceptable) The 87 came out as 86,3, wich I find to much off, because it’s for a reprap build, could this be cause by too loose belts? What could be the cause, maybe this has something to do with the circular shape thoo? Help please?
[quote=“Andreas15”]I said that I tightened these motor belts to the ultimate maximum already, way to thight I guess, or can’t they be too tight? Pulley should have to be all good too normally.
Can you set the motor belts too tight? Maybe I can try even harder then?[/quote]There’s been stacks of posts about this. Loosen your belts - you don’t need them tight.
Please read what I say!!!: MOTOR belts!!!
It maybe possible that the motor belts can be to tight.
However biscuitlad is talking about the long belts.
If those are to tight it can cause binding.
What will to tight motor belts do? Cause the prints to be to small? I’m beginning to hate this printer, every problem comes with another one. The pulleys are still off, the shafts are not straight, not spinning straight anyway, and I have tried everything. I can’t take a video, it isn’t visible on video, I tried, but it is there. I can also feel it when moving the head across, there are spots with less resistance and spots with more. What I think of this printer now? Piece of crap…
If the motor belts are to tight they can bind if they are to loose they will slip.
It’s the same thing for the longer belts.
The Wiki page that Raby gave you the link to has very good instructions.
Once you get the printer up and running and you understand it better you will love it.
It’s not that’s not running, it is just not running correctly. I followed the wiki already, nothing there, and I don’t see or hear missing steps, that’s not the problem. Anyway, I think this isn’t helping. I have said my problems for about 100 times already, but it looks like nobody has a real solution. I don’t know what to tight or to loose is, how the F*CK do I even have to know if it’s binding?
It’s not that I don’t understand or something, I tried everything! I cadded my whole own printer now, don’t tell me I don’t understand it. I’ve never seen such a loose belts on printer like on this one, don’t know if you ever felt the tension on Felix printers, or RepRaps, that’s allot higher, and works perfectly. Or my parts are just very bed (like the pulleys I already mentioned) and the bent rods.
I’m think I’m just gonna try printing my own printer parts with these miscalibration and try to assemble that. I don’t like this system at all, only for the noise it makes I would change…
This is not like a topic closer or something, If someone maybe know a fix that would be very welcome, and I try everything you guys suggest, but it didn’t fix it until now…
I have fully dissasembled the printhead, rods and motors again. I tightened the motors with the help of my dad (allot more tension know) and it seems that did the trick for the most part.
Know the flat spost are gone, but it seems to be a bit oval. On a 12mm little circle, I get 11,93 as biggest diameter and 11,75 as smallest. But it’s clean round. How can I fix this? I can’t see the difference with my eye, but the caliper says it, hopefully somebody can help me with that? I’m so happy this thing is fixed already!
Ok, I have some good new to mention 
Now with the exams finished I had allot of time to tweak the printer. I got the printhead, tightened the motor belts even more. It was better but not solved. It couldn’t be the hardware anymore I tought so I began looking and looking in the firmware and such. I did a few 20x20mm cubes that came out always to small (about 0,5mm) wich is allot on such a small part I think, but it was on both sides. I calculated:
(20/19,5)*134,7 = 138,15. I put this in the firmware steps/mm for both axes (I measured more precise then 19,5 and calculated for both axes, but this is an example) I flashed again and tried a new calibration cube.
Tadaa, within 0,05 tolerance, wich I find acceptable, circles are within 0,1mm now, think I can get it even better, but I’m very happy now. I think it’s mostly due to some incorrect pulleys or belts, that the theoretically calculated 134.7 steps/mm is off for me.
Maybe it’s a wrong way of compensating it, I don’t know that. I don’t bother, it’s atleast better then making thing bigger in your design. Even inner holes (vertically printer) are in 0,1mm tolerance, wich is very good! Happy me, thanks for all your help. I can begin printing my self designed RepRap
Hi Andreas, great to read that it’s improving.
Coincidence? I am doing the exact same tests as you tonight, based on a 20x20x20 block to start with.
My X measured 20.10mm and Y measured 19.89mm with the default settings and I wanted to see if it could be improved.
The new calculated steps/mm were 134.07 for X and 135.49 for Y.
Next cube I printed: 20.04mm x 20.05mm :).
I will repeat the test with a 100mm square and see how that prints…
Erik
A 100x100 cube will probably could probably get you an even more accurate idea of how far he is off. I’m gonna do that when I have my new buildtak.
Also, as a side note, I made the edges round, because I know that when you print a cube with 90° corners, the cornes always are a little over extruded if you know what I mean, causing you to not measure from face to face but from corner to corner., because of the instant motion change, so I give them a small fillet.
Starting with 20mm is probably not the right method. Although the 200m box printed <.05mm, the large square suddenly had an error of 0.9mm. I’m recalibrating based on that 100m square, and print a 20mm square at the same time to check both results.
I did it with a 10x10x10 cube that had no top or bottom and no infil and 1 wall thickness. That way you have all 3 axis and the wall in the same messurment. Slow down the printspeed when doing it and set multiplier to 1 and flow at 100 and then do the calcs. PS make shure you have done the extruder fix first in the firmware sins it is way off the default value that velleman have added. the wiki have a 1 head version of the firmware for this fix. I can probably put together a Quick fix for you on the 2 head firmware for it if anyone need one.
Yes I did the improved extruder mod.
I use cura, so I don’t have an extrusion multiplier. But I also did a cube with 0,7 wall thickenss and hollow on the inside. And that came out very good. The wall thickness was around 0,72 after measurement, but sometimes smaller too.