Finished my larger made Vertex. Bought new rods and tweaked the side panel drawings to the new sizes to lasercut them in 4 mm MDF. Printsizes are about X=265; Y=260; Z=370 mm.
Yet I have to solve some minor issues like the fastening of the belts on the carriage. I got open ended polyurethane belts and they are so smooth they easily slide out of the belt-clamp.
Used Marlark’s heatbed and because it is of course smaller than the glass plate (289x268), I made ABS parts to fix the heatbed in the middle under the glass. This package is mounted on the original alu bedplate. Glass is Borofloat (thanks Jeafke).
To avoid Z-wobble because of the larger threaded rod and the flexible coupler, I made a second bearing just above the coupler and aligned the hole very carefully. With the first bearing on top, now the rod doesn’t make the slightest tremble.
The side panels are as steady as the original polycarbonate, the only thing is to use washers between the bolts. Deleted all the unnecessary holes and made some new ones. The glassplate now can be removed horizontal over the full build height. The room on the bottom is made higher to hide the electronics more easily.
Thanks for posting pictures, looks really impressive. Keep us updated on how well it prints.
The lower mounted bearing on your Z-rod is a sweet solution man!
I seriously dig the logo you added to the front panel. And the power cord and button on the Leftside & Back is just where it should have been in the original kit imho!
@jakemog22
Depends on where you live, but I think you can order them yourselves? This panels are lasercut in Rotterdam (NL) by Snijlab.nl and it costs me € 55,-- (including € 6,70 transport). But I think it could be done everywhere. I can send you the right drawings and I will even make some small adjustments to improve some holes.
Btw, you realise this panels are made for a larger printer and so you have to order longer rods, extend the wiring and make an adjusted and larger build platform?
[quote=“svdv”]@jakemog22
Depends on where you live, but I think you can order them yourselves? This panels are lasercut in Rotterdam (NL) by Snijlab.nl and it costs me € 55,-- (including € 6,70 transport). But I think it could be done everywhere. I can send you the right drawings and I will even make some small adjustments to improve some holes.
Btw, you realise this panels are made for a larger printer and so you have to order longer rods, extend the wiring and make an adjusted and larger build platform?[/quote]
Yes i realize that rods and stuff needs to be modded, and if you could send me the drawings that would be amazing. Thanks!
I was wondering if you had drawings for that case but just taller not wider? so i don’t have to but new belts and all new rods…
Very nice work! I’m thinking seriously about doing something similar. I’m already drawing actually. I see you’ve used the original Iglidur nut for the Z axis. Now you say you have replaced it by a longer one, may I ask where you bought it seeing it fits the original one?
[quote=“svdv”]@Wirecase
You mean the longer threaded rod? I bought it here: http://www.llamatech.be/shop/nl/
And I added a bearing just above the Z-axis motor coupler.
You don’t have to draw it again, I have the customized drawings available…[/quote]
Thank you for the quick reply!
May I ask by how much you increased the size of the outside casing? I myself was looking to increase X and Y by 10 cm or at least so that the build plate becomes 30cm x 30cm or even 40cm x 40cm. The total Z height would depend on the lenght of the leadscrew I can get. I’d like to at least get 50cm height in…
The casing is of my printer is 40 x 40 cm, so 5 cm larger in both horizontal directions, and 20 cm higher. The buildsize (right nozzle) is X=265, Y=240 and Z=370. The threaded rod is 50 cm, but because of the added bearing I lose 3 cm.
My main point was to print heigher. And deliberately I didn’t increase X and Y more then 5 cm, due to the risc of sagging of the 8 mm rods.
You have to realise too that with larger printsizes, the printing time will increase in such a way, you have to cut the G-code in two or even three parts to prevent the machine to print day and night and even longer. Myself, I only want to print at daytime. So it takes some extra efforts.
