vertex problem; buildplate aluminium part.
The plate bend a bit in both direction ,as it was a part of a ball-surface .
When a ruler is put on the plate, there is a quarter to a half mm bend on the middle.
Is there any problems with this fault ? or is this correct .
alex
My build plate had a 0.35 difference in the center too.
This probably puts some force on the glass plate which made it very difficult to calibrate to 0.35mm distance to the print head.
I then tried to put some force on it to straigthen it, and ended up adding some filler (thick tape) to the corners so my glass plate is not touching the aluminum plate in the center anymore. I now ‘only’ have 0.1mm difference center to outer edges which is fine for me.
I have the same problem with the plate not being straight. Will try and add some filler, maybe that helps when printing larger parts. Thanks for the tip h60.
Same here, If I adjust the 3 corners (printhead above adjustment screws) with 1mm distance, In the center the printhead is then touching the Buildtak.
I will try putting spacers in the corners.
Nice tip.
Best Wishes Everybody and happy printing
I’m having the same center height issue approx 0.5mm
Rather than adding material into corners, I’m thinking to flip alu base, redo the countersinks and then add material to the center if needed.
@ Finnman: Wouldn’t this give problems in mounting the locked nuts as the bottom-side would also be countersunk?
Good point.
My second nozzle arrived today so I’ll install that and then recalibrate z-distance. If the bed is still middle high, then the plan is to use set of small+large washers in original coutersinks.
Same here! The aluminium plate is not flat and thus bends the glass. Also thought to flip it over and redo the countersinks.
By the way, has anyone replaced the second thumb screw with a strong spring? Might be significantly easier to level the bed. Then use two thumb screws to lock the setup.
As in here for example:
thank you …hmm… seems all are higher in the middle.
I will first try to bend the plate a bit .
alex
Not yet on the Vertex but I’ve done this on my K8200 and it works like a charm.
Perfect! Now I need to source stiff enough springs somewhere…
However it seems that the bed is holding it’s level quite nicely!
I have adjusted it once using feeler gauge to 0,35mm gauge directly on top of the adjusting screws and haven’t had problems with PLA sticking to bed despite many times of removing the bed.
For large prints I need to sort out the flatness of the bed first.
I flipper over the aluminium plate and remade the countersinks. Some remarks:
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BE CAREFUL WITH THE HEIGHT OF THE BED! DO NOT SCRATCH THE BED WITH NOZZLE as I did
You should use washers on the side where you have the original countersinks to avoid nut misalignment. This will raise the bed and it may hit the nozzle when homing. This alone did not do much harm but as I accidentally moved X instead of Z I now have a scratch on the buildtak… not bad though! -
The metal clip mounting holes are on wrong place. These holes need to be remade if you want to use the clips as they are originally intended.
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As the aluminium plate still is not flat (corners are not at same level) it will bend the glass a little if you use clips in all four corners. I am now using only 3 clips.
Otherwise I have a feeling that flipping the plate was not a bad idea 
p.s. it seems that the glass plate is very flat and the aluminium plate is not. So the best way would be to have the glass plate supported from 3 points exactly above the adjusting screws and not pushed against the aluminium plate. Glass glue and some quick release mount perhaps…
I have bended the plate ,and it was not so hard to do.
The result is much better ; maybe 0,1 mm faults some places.
I put the plate upside down. lying on a 10 mm thick, 20 cm long ironbar in the middle.
then mounted the side to the bench.
Then pushing on the free side, with a piece of wood ,both hands on it.
I did not push more than I could feel the plate still just flexing.
after several times with measuring for flatnes, I ended with a plate that is more flat .
taking the other side ,the same way and after maybe 40 times with small push, I’m
quite satisfied with the plate.
when I reach to the height adjustment, I will se how nice it have been, but at the moment, I struggle with getting the XY motors to move the head… also not so easy.
alex
Bending the plate also did the trick for me, I have put the plate on the 5mm edge of the kitchen counter-top forced it down with all my weight did this for all 4 edges.
Now when I check with a flashlight is see approximately 0,5mm gap in the center, with all 4 corners touching the glass without being unstable.
This is working fine now.
You might as well attach the glass to the aluminium plate with SIKAFLEX. It will have a little flexibility and the glass is not bending anymore. I don’t think the aluminium plate is bended initially. The 3 mounting screws tend to bend the aluminium plate which then bends the glass.
Romania has several chains of DIY stores, but if you’re looking for anything more subtle than wallboard, tiles, nails or paint, you’re in for a struggle. I’d been banging my head on walls looking for springs suitable to use on my K8400 print bed to tension the adjustment screws as described in this thread. Nobody nowhere knew nothing. Then one day while cruising the automotive aisle in Praktiker, I found battery clamps:
Being on the stiff side, I cut each spring in half and used a carriage washer to stop them digging into the frame plastic. I moved the second thumbwheel from each adjustment point to act as a lock on the first thumbwheels. Works like a charm I must say!