USB connection to K8200 (Code 52)

K8200 3D Printer K8200 - Computer related problems
1

Hi,

I’m building a 3D printer from your kit, and I have finished the all the hardware and wiring. I’m trying to connect the printer to my laptop, drivers are loaded, Repetier installed, but the port is showing me Code 52 error, and so I cannot connect over in Repetier.

In Device Manager, Windows showed me this message in the port’s Properties: “Windows cannot verify the digital signature for the drivers required for this device. A recent hardware or software change might have installed a file that is signed incorrectly or damaged, or that might be malicious software from an unknown source. (Code 52)”

Repetier showed me this message: “The connection with the following error: The port ‘COM3’ does not exist… Make sure your printer is connected, enabled and connection data is set correct. Open printer settings?”

Both LEDs on the board is on, one red, one yellow.

My Windows is Windows 7 Professional 64-bit, the driver I installed is VCP 2.12.06 from FTDI, Repetier version is K8200 Repetier Host v0.95F.

Please help me, and let me know of any suggestion at all. I’m doing this project for a class. Thank you!

2

Try completely uninstalling the FTDI driver, then reboot and install it again.
Allow the (unsigned) driver to be installed if windows asks for the signature.

3

Thanks for the suggestion! My K8200 is now connected to the computer, and I’m checking if I wired thing correctly, however, the log doesn’t show the temperature of either the extruder or the bed, and when I tried manual control, it just stays there with 6 commands waiting.

What should I do next?

4

Check for the correct Communication Settings in Repetier.

Baudrate : 250000
Reset on Connect : disabled
Transfer protocol : Autodetect
Receive buffer size : 63

Set those and the reset the printer.

5

I realized I hadn’t flashed Marlin for the board yet, which may be why Repetier didn’t run (for the record, the instruction on Velleman listed that as the last step, and I’m a novice at this, never done any of this before). Anyway, so I’m trying to do that, however, it doesn’t seem to be uploading correctly. As I have already mounted the board on the side of my printer with everything plugged in, I unplugged everything and short the pins on JPROG as instructed, though that didn’t help and I keep having this problem:

avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_ReceiveMessage(): timeout
avrdude: stk500v2_getsync(): timeout communicating with programmer

I’m using Marlin v1, Arduino 1.6.5 IDE. The board is only connected to the computer. Should it be connected to the main power as well? Suggestions? Thanks!

6

Never mind! Manual control via Repetier is working now! I have no idea whether that was because flashing Marlin to the board again had worked or because of something else, but I’m moving forward to testing and calibrating. I’ll be back with more questions for sure!

7

Hi,

So I know that all my wiring is working, although my extruder motor is doing something funny. It only turns for a certain amount, in either direction, then it buzzes, but stand still. This is the link to the video of what happened.

youtube.com/watch?v=s_JUlfHB6MY

Any idea what went wrong?

Thanks!

8

Check if the gears aren’t set too tight, this may block the motor.
Also check if the Hobbed bolt and the filament bearing turn freely.
Have you already set the setepper drivers to 0.55V?
If not, do so.

9

I have set all the step motors to 0.425V, and the motors on the axes work fine, just this motor that is having a problem. I’ll check the other suggestion tomorrow when I come into the lab. I will also try to set the E-MOT to 0.55V if the other suggestions do not fix it.
Thank you!

10

Hi,

So I bought the long coil of filament from Velleman and it is ABS so I’m trying to get the printbed temperature to go up to 90C. However, it hovers at around 54C and doesn’t seem to be able to get any hotter than that. What I can do to bring the heat up?

Thanks!

11

I fear the only possible solution is to put a separate 24v power supply on the heatbed.
The stock 15V supply is simply to weak to get over around 60°c.

12

How can I do that?

13

You can search here in the forum -> Keywords 24v power supply heated bed

You will find a good amount of threads with different possible solutions.

14

I found a few that make a dual power supply, 24V for the printbed and 15V for everything else. But I’m just wondering can I just supply 24V for everything? Or will that damage the board/components?

15

The buard itself won’t live very long with 24V. The Power regulators for the 5V parts will get too hot.
But using a second supply is not very hard, and can be done for a reasonable price.

I used a “Laptop Style” 24v supply (150W) and a relay to switch the heatbed power.
The stock supply now only powers the controller, motors and the Hotend.
Cost me about 50€ in total.

16

I decided to buy a coil of PLA and have that working first, because I have a deadline to fill. I will probably fiddle with two power supplies for ABS later.

This is a video of my first print, and I noticed some uneven print, and the bed is shaking.

youtu.be/Hc181jRwDVM

Any diagnosis?