One of the biggest issues about this printer kit is, that the heated bed is not flat.
Problems:
I have 1 to 3 millimeter differences from one edge to another. And the bed is higher on the middle. This is because the four screws bend the PCB bed.
The PCB bed is only 1,7mm, why not 2,0 mm ? Maybe because the heat will not go through.
The justification wheels below the heated bed DO NOT WORK. It’s not functional because there is no spring, etc. (mechanical engineering problem.) As the documentation suggests, you have to BEND the whole heated bed by hand… Funny… but it seems to work for some bit… I can only tell that serious mechanic engineering is something different.
Solution: - 1. Bend it. Bend it very carefully so that the heater resistant on the back does not break
Put TAPE on top. (Simple paper-tape would do it, also called “blue tape”, maybe also Capton Tape, or PET Tape). This makes the PLA sticks on the surface much better then just the plain PCB board.
Do a test print from the middle to the outside, just a circle to see where your heated bed is flat.
Done. Happy printing
NOTE: This is not described within the user manual. But it should be.
This printer has still some flaws, the warped bed is number one of it.
Secondly, the heating power is insufficiant, when you put a 4 mm glass on top off the bed, 60 degrees is not reachable anymore.
And how will we manage ABS, there we need at least 90-100 degrees.
[quote=“flag”]One of the biggest issues about this printer kit is, that the heated bed is not flat.
Problems:
I have 1 to 3 millimeter differences from one edge to another. And the bed is higher on the middle. This is because the four screws bend the PCB bed.
The PCB bed is only 1,7mm, why not 2,0 mm ? Maybe because the heat will not go through.
The justification wheels below the heated bed DO NOT WORK. It’s not functional because there is no spring, etc. (mechanical engineering problem.) As the documentation suggests, you have to BEND the whole heated bed by hand… Funny… but it seems to work for some bit… I can only tell that serious mechanic engineering is something different.
Solution: - 1. Bend it. Bend it very carefully so that the heater resistant on the back does not break
Put TAPE on top. (Simple paper-tape would do it, also called “blue tape”, maybe also Capton Tape, or PET Tape). This makes the PLA sticks on the surface much better then just the plain PCB board.
Do a test print from the middle to the outside, just a circle to see where your heated bed is flat.
Done. Happy printing
NOTE: This is not described within the user manual. But it should be.[/quote]
Really… ?! The (velleman et al) stated clearly in there brochure that this printer is able to print PLA and ABS … it’s a mess.
So with the heating bed that comes with the printer it will not be possible to print any ABS.
[quote=“RudydG”]This printer has still some flaws, the warped bed is number one of it.
Secondly, the heating power is insufficiant, when you put a 4 mm glass on top off the bed, 60 degrees is not reachable anymore.
And how will we manage ABS, there we need at least 90-100 degrees.[/quote]
[quote=“flag”]Really… ?! The (velleman et al) stated clearly in there brochure that this printer is able to print PLA and ABS … it’s a mess.
So with the heating bed that comes with the printer it will not be possible to print any ABS.
[quote=“RudydG”]This printer has still some flaws, the warped bed is number one of it.
Secondly, the heating power is insufficiant, when you put a 4 mm glass on top off the bed, 60 degrees is not reachable anymore.
And how will we manage ABS, there we need at least 90-100 degrees.[/quote][/quote]
Let’s say, that some printers, in perfect condition will maybe be able, but try printing a iphone case…
On the other hand, i hope i am wrong, and will wait for the abs profile that velleman has announced
Also, the power supply is already hot when printing at 55/200, and the power is almost constantly on on the bed, (15v over 8ohm), where i see other reprap designs going to 24v /1.5-2.5 ohms, big difference.
60 degrees celcius is enough, but we recommend to sand the bed slightly tomachieve good results with ABS.
Of course, when you modify the unit and you add a glass plate, it will no longer reach the desired temperature, as it has not been designed to support that.
[quote=“VEL417”]60 degrees celcius is enough, but we recommend to sand the bed slightly tomachieve good results with ABS.
Of course, when you modify the unit and you add a glass plate, it will no longer reach the desired temperature, as it has not been designed to support that.[/quote]
Tried with 60 and abs (sanded with 400, several times, the bed is really sticky now), but i think i reach the limit of the design.
To get a really flat bed, glass is necessary, and there is simply not enough power to get this working.
So, i will mount a 20x20 bed with 1.5 to 2.5 ohms resistance (the norm in reprap world), but then, all the rest becomes problematic. Power supply is only 100watt, already fully loaded with the standard bed.
Means:
to mount a better i need a better power supply, and probably a better motherboard (not sure about that)
Honestly, i thought with buying a more expensive version of the reprap design printer, that i did not have to face these issues, but as i see it now, i will have to change a lot to get the results i want.
There are more issues, i get a dissapointing x-y resolution, my pullys are not round, even the z axe is not round.
Funny… but it seems to work for some bit… I can only tell that serious mechanic engineering is something different.
Funny… but it seems to work for some bit… I can only tell that serious mechanic engineering is something different.
