I have bought the same brass bearing and trapezoidal spindle as fitchie. Do I need to change my firmware? I couldn’t make it up from the responses.
Regards!!!
Edit:
[quote=“VenHeelun”][quote=“szeedijk”]
For what do you want to use the second fan?[/quote]
I see a lot of youtube movies that show better prints with 2 fans.[/quote]
Ah! Another update to remember! 
[quote=“fitchie”][quote=“szeedijk”]
Could you provide the .stl for the mouting bracket for the brass drive (as seen in your picture above)
[/quote]
Please send me an email (fitchie71@hotmail.com), I’ll reply with the STL-file.[/quote]
Thanks! Done!
Reply & STL-files sent, but got the following error:
[ul]This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification.
Delivery to the following recipients failed.
sander@netwerkzeedijk.nl[/ul]
Reply & STL-files sent, but got the following error:
[ul]This is an automatically generated Delivery Status Notification.
Delivery to the following recipients failed.
sander@netwerkzeedijk.nl[/ul][/quote]
You’ve got a reply
Thank fitchie!
I’ve received the STL files.
Something I did notice is that it’s still a little wobbly at the top. Do you use any kind of top mount/brass?
Put the motor at the top it works better for so many reasons (just rearange the standard parts).
Could be interesting too!
Can you name some reasons? 
Hi, the quick answer is:
When you do the Z axis mod you effectively put a spring (flex coupler) between the motor that is fixed (in the Z axis) and the rod that is controlling the position of the extruder.
See (http://www.velleman.eu/downloads/0/assembly/assembly_manual_k8204.pdf)
So you have replaced a poor quality item that was physically supported in the Z +/- direction by a bearing, with a higher quality item that doesn’t use the bearing for Z +/- location. You are relying on a the flex coupler to maintain its overall length in order to have a controlled movement in the Z axis.
If you put your finger on the extruder and press down gently you can see the flex coupler compress. The result of this is you get random bad layers as the Z axis carriage sticks or as the extruder tugs on the filament (pull its self upwards).
If you mount the motor at the top you can reuse the bearing support under the flex coupler providing a much more solid fixing as all Z + forces have been removed. Printing an anti-backlash nut does the same for the Z- forces.
See this thread by “ichbinsnur” (http://forum.velleman.eu/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=13114).
Plus it helps with
Hi
Question 1:
Does anyone know how to set a default temperature for the nozle:
When i set it to 210º the printer sets the temperature back to 190º.
I must tune the printer with the controller to 210º manualy everytime.
The bed temperature is stored correctly from Repetier.
Question 2:
How do i post a photo on this forum?
Where do you set that default temp?
You’d have to use a picture hoster or dropbox for example and post a link to the picture enclosed in an tag.
[quote=“ichbinsnur”]1. Where do you set that default temp?
A1: The default temp’s i set in Repetier Host under: ‘Printer Settings / [tab] Printer’
here is a setting ‘Default Extruder Temperature:’ & ‘Default Heated Bed Temperature:’
Extruder is set to 210, Bed is set to 62.
That’s with a mirror cleaned with 96% alcohol and it sticks very well to the heatbed.
(here is also setting '[b]Park Position:[/b]'. I set it to X=100, Y=188, Z=50.
This should be at the center backside of the heatbed, 50 mm up. After printing the head goes to the
middle left of the heatbed.
I don't thing the wiring is wrong because the prints are good).
In '[b]Repetier Host[/b] / [tab] '[b]Slicer[/b]':
Here i go to [tab] '[b]Filament Settings[/b]' & left choose '[b]Filament[/b]'
In the right window you can set your '[b]Extruder:[/b]' & '[b]Bed:[/b]' temp's.
Then i copy the GCode files to a sd-card.
Choose ‘Change SD-Card’ & ‘Print from SD’
Then the printer heats up.
The heatbed is heating up to 162º
THe extruder is heating up to 190º
So the extruder temp is 20º to low.
Everytime i want to print something i must change the extruder-temp with ‘Tune / Nozzle :’ back to 210º.
What could be the reason for the lower temperature?
A2: This i must try sometime.
[quote=“VenHeelun”][quote=“ichbinsnur”]1. Where do you set that default temp?
A1: The default temp’s i set in Repetier Host under: ‘Printer Settings / [tab] Printer’
here is a setting ‘Default Extruder Temperature:’ & ‘Default Heated Bed Temperature:’
Extruder is set to 210, Bed is set to 62.
That’s with a mirror cleaned with 96% alcohol and it sticks very well to the heatbed.
(here is also setting '[b]Park Position:[/b]'. I set it to X=100, Y=188, Z=50.
This should be at the center backside of the heatbed, 50 mm up. After printing the head goes to the
middle left of the heatbed.
I don't thing the wiring is wrong because the prints are good).
In '[b]Repetier Host[/b] / [tab] '[b]Slicer[/b]':
Here i go to [tab] '[b]Filament Settings[/b]' & left choose '[b]Filament[/b]'
In the right window you can set your '[b]Extruder:[/b]' & '[b]Bed:[/b]' temp's.
Then i copy the GCode files to a sd-card.
Choose ‘Change SD-Card’ & ‘Print from SD’
Then the printer heats up.
The heatbed is heating up to 162º
THe extruder is heating up to 190º
So the extruder temp is 20º to low.
Everytime i want to print something i must change the extruder-temp with ‘Tune / Nozzle :’ back to 210º.
What could be the reason for the lower temperature?
A2: This i must try sometime.[/quote]
Make sure you set the filament and bed temp in slic3r and SAVE the configuration BEFORE slicing.
Also RELOAD (reselect) the correct configuration in the repetier tab.
If You don’t reselect it, slic3r doesn’t respect the changes sometimes.
[quote=“ichbinsnur”][quote=“VenHeelun”][quote=“ichbinsnur”]1. Where do you set that default temp?
A1: The default temp’s i set in Repetier Host under: ‘Printer Settings / [tab] Printer’
here is a setting ‘Default Extruder Temperature:’ & ‘Default Heated Bed Temperature:’
Extruder is set to 210, Bed is set to 62.
That’s with a mirror cleaned with 96% alcohol and it sticks very well to the heatbed.
(here is also setting '[b]Park Position:[/b]'. I set it to X=100, Y=188, Z=50.
This should be at the center backside of the heatbed, 50 mm up. After printing the head goes to the
middle left of the heatbed.
I don't thing the wiring is wrong because the prints are good).
In '[b]Repetier Host[/b] / [tab] '[b]Slicer[/b]':
Here i go to [tab] '[b]Filament Settings[/b]' & left choose '[b]Filament[/b]'
In the right window you can set your '[b]Extruder:[/b]' & '[b]Bed:[/b]' temp's.
Then i copy the GCode files to a sd-card.
Choose ‘Change SD-Card’ & ‘Print from SD’
Then the printer heats up.
The heatbed is heating up to 162º
THe extruder is heating up to 190º
So the extruder temp is 20º to low.
Everytime i want to print something i must change the extruder-temp with ‘Tune / Nozzle :’ back to 210º.
What could be the reason for the lower temperature?
A2: This i must try sometime.[/quote]
Make sure you set the filament and bed temp in slic3r and SAVE the configuration BEFORE slicing.
Also RELOAD (reselect) the correct configuration in the repetier tab.
If You don’t reselect it, slic3r doesn’t respect the changes sometimes.[/quote]
What do you mean with:
"Also RELOAD (reselect) the correct configuration in the repetier tab. "
Is this not the same as the “Save current print settings” button under the 3 tabs in Slic3r?
I don’t see any “repetier tab” in Slic3r.
Also when printing is finished the heatbed does not turn off. It stays at the print temperatur.
Where can i put in a setting that turns off the heatbed after printing is finished?
Any temperature set commands in your start code will prevent Slic3r from outputting further temperature commands during the print.
I entered the good code in the start code and now the extruder heats up to this temp.
I don’t understand your comment. Everything after the actual printing process should be in the end code or not?
Why must i put in the code for cooling down the printbed after printing in the start code?
Up to now i did not get the printer to cool down after printing.
Could someone please give me the lines i must enter for cooling down the printbed after printing?
Also where i must enter the code(s).
Thank you
This is how my Slic3r end g-code looks:
M104 S0 ; turn off temperature
G28 X0 ; home X axis
M84 ; disable motors
HTH
cheers,
Christian
In Slic3r under filament settings, you can set bed and Extruder temperatures for first and subsequent layers and Slic3r will insert the appropriate temperature commands (M104 and M190) into the generated G-code.
Unless that is you have an M104 or M190 in your start code!
In that case Slic3r will not generate any temperature commands and you’ll just get the temperatures specified in the start code.
If you hover your mouse pointer over the start code in Slic3r a popup will appear (fairly briefly) explaining this.
If i put M104 or M190 both to 0 degrees the printer starts with a cold bed and extruder.
I put the codes in the end code and now the bed cools down like it should.
I did use M190 S0 witch sould (heat) the bed to 0 degrees. I don’t understand why that did not work.
Why is there a code for turning off extruders (M103) but not such a code for the heatbed?
Anyway the probem is fixed.
Thank you for the codes.
hello,
I must agree, the k8200 does rule! (especially, as people develop the CNC attachment, and the lazercutter head with quick-change connections, it is a lazer etching, CNC’ing, 3D printing swiss army knife of awesome).
I wonder a few questions;
what finish can people achieve with: a conic segment, a 127-cell, a tetrahedron? (do pointy objects print pointy, do spherical or curved shapes print curvy etc). I find the final point on the tetrahedron does not print properly.
also,
how long does it take people to print a square plate of the following dimensions:
187mm W x 187mm L x 3-5mm D?
using 0.3mm layerheight, low acceleration, low infill speed, and at 30%infill, solid fill every 4 layers?
It is estimated, with a simple tri mesh, 6 faces, 8 verts;
to take my rig between 1hr:37mins:43sec and 2hours:45mins:13secs per plate,
using slic3r v1.1.7 stable,
baring any unforeseen hiccup. This is without the nekker/escher/geiger details…
any perspective, or hints to reduce that print time will be appreciated at the collective.
If you can suggest some ways to print inside of 45mins per plate… you may just make the object printable hehehe.
I look forward to seeing the 3D ceramic printer filaments,
PCB board pre-wired filaments,
and the newer 6-axis Printer and '3D sand vacuform printers" develop.
Sure, lazer cutter, lazer scintilated resin ala “Frosted Ultra Detailed” and the like are cool, and have that finish everyone quests,
but the k8200 have some charms to it, and is more affordable; great for experimenting.