When printing with PLA at a fine setting of 0.06 the layer lines are visible on the surface of the model. Is this normal? Should I consider acetone treatment to obtain a smooth finish. The phonographs of models usually show a very smooth finish straight from the printer, Your guidance would be appreciated. Thank you.
Hi, need a photo really to see. Put a coin or something next to the object so we can guage size and detail.
Is it the standard hot end?
What size nozzle are you using?
Have you made any mods to the printer? (Z axis, belts etc).
Your settings need to be really good to print a layer much less than about 40% of the nozzle diameter.
Sorry for the delay in replying but I have installed the Z axis upgrade which appears to have overcome the problem. Do I need to upgrade the firmware as I find the models are inaccurate on the Z axis. Any guidance would be appreciated
You don’t necessarily need tu upgrade the firmware, but you have to change the steps/mm for the z axis to 2133.3333 for correct Z travel.
Thanks Christian. How do I adjust the steps in the Repetier software. I have tried the tools menu but it seems to be a combination three factors.
To change the firmware settings go to Config -> Firmware EEprom Configuration
or Press Alt + E
Then change the steps/mm Value in the Z Field in the first line and save to EEprom.
If the fields don’t show values you need to modify and reflash the firmware to enable eeprom control via repetier.
Thanks for your help.The values in the configuration table are all zero, how do I reflash the firmware.
[quote=“zoostorm”]Thanks for your help.The values in the configuration table are all zero, how do I reflash the firmware.
For recompiling and reflashing the firmware you will need the Firmware files from Velleman and the
Arduino IDE in version [color=#BF0000]1.0.6[/color]. The versions above that won’t work!
If you have the firmware unpacked and arduino ide installed, open the Marlin.ino file in Arduino.
Then make the modifications, recompile it and upload it to the controller board.
As many beginners are a little overpowered with these tasks, maybe i can make a short video about it.
I find it quite confusing, if you can find the time to make video I’m sure it would be a great help. not only to me but many others.
[quote=“zoostorm”]I find it quite confusing, if you can find the time to make video I’m sure it would be a great help. not only to me but many others.
Yep. i already thought so.
Let me see if i can get a video done this week.
Look forward to seeing it. Many thanks
Yes looking forward to this video I have just upgraded the firmware but have never used Arduino so know nothing about it. would be a great help!!!
How come this Marlin Firmware EEProm Settings are all zeros in my Repetier Host settings. Where was the settings of this discussed in the Setup procedures.
Will this fix the layer effect on the print?
Where can I view the movie that’s fixes the EEProm settings?
Thanks for your help,
I’m currently at work with the video and will post a youtube link as soon as i get it uploaded.
Please have a bit of patience, cause i’m all doung this in my free time.
Are the settings for the EEPROM above where the Z setting is 2133.3333work for the standard setting?
I am getting one thicker layer every 1.3mm leaving a ridge line.
Would it be better also to up the voltage for the stepper motors from the calibration 4.25v to 5.5v on the board?
The z axis teps per mm is for the k8204 leadscrew upgrade which has a different (higher) pitch than the standard M8 threaded rod.
Standard setting is : Z = 2560 steps/mm (M81.25)
K8204 setting is : Z= 2133.3333 steps/mm (TR81.5)
[color=#BF0000]4.25[/color] Volt is way too high!
The Manual suggests [color=#FF0000]0.425V[/color]!
Wheeas it turns out 0.55V works better on most machines.
John, your uneven surface corresponds very closely to the thread spacing on the z-axis threaded rod. If you have a wobble in this rod, that will generate your problem as the wobble lifts and lowers the extruder slightly.
Just realized why. Wrote to Velleman on facebook and contact from website.
The Z axis is the problem. The threaded screw is dead straight - that’s ok.
The Z axis motor shaft is dead straight - that’s ok.
I have found the shaft to screw connector is drilled slightly offset when I got it, so the motor bounces, dances and wobbles every time it does a rotation.
This causes the Z axis to come down nicely, then slow down, then continue in the normal fashion every revolution.
This is what is causing the problem as when it slows, it puts another layer on top and squeezes out the sides creating the ridge every 1.3mm.
I’m in Western Australia. Is there anywhere that might sell this connector or something similar so I can fix it properly? Any ideas?
The printer is great except for this one piece which is really annoying me. After a month and a half, so far I’m not impressed with the quality because of this.
Would something like this work?
5mm shaft to 8mm hole with grub screws.
[quote=“nuggles58”]Would something like this work?
5mm shaft to 8mm hole with grub screws.
Well, I answered my own question here. I went to my hobby electronics store and got one. The lines in the print have basically disappeared and now I have a much smoother side which I am happy with. The new connector needed a little tweaking but now the motor hardly moves and there is just a very minor offset for the thread.The Z axis runs smoothly and constant in speed.