Just completed the spinning top: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:492488/#files
Printed very neatly, except the top part started to string from the model towards the rest area between layers:
Is this just down to the nozzle temperature being too high (due to the firmware setting error)? Or is there something else I should tweak? This is with the standard settings, except it was printed at 195C, which I thought would be cool enough.
[quote=“biscuitlad”]Just completed the spinning top: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:492488/#files
Printed very neatly, except the top part started to string from the model towards the rest area between layers:
Is this just down to the nozzle temperature being too high (due to the firmware setting error)? Or is there something else I should tweak? This is with the standard settings, except it was printed at 195C, which I thought would be cool enough.[/quote]
I just wanted to say that i’m jealous on the quality of those prints! I will need to recalibrate…
Yes, don’t get me wrong, the print quality is generally fantastic. The left hand part was flawless. But this slight stringing does spoil the surface finish. I’m going to try and lower the temperature a fraction to see if that eliminates it. I was just hoping that someone could say for certain that’s what it is before I tackle another big print today!
My biggest problem with calibration is that I can’t get the prints off the Buildtak bed. For example, the right hand side model came off easily, but the left hand side required a hammer and chisel! Tried adjusting the Z height but any higher (or lower depending on your viewpoint!) and the first layer doesn’t stick at all.
BTW, that spinning top is a great demonstration of the printer’s ability, but it’s a rubbish spinning top!
BuildTak has good adhesion, i agree. I use a sharp kitchenknife to get under it a bit and then let the tension slowly build up. You can hear the bond with the printbed break without too much force.
The stringing occurs because the printers waits in between layers as they are to small to print consecutively. Either you trim away the little “anntennas” with a sharp knife or you print more than one piece at a time making the layer time longer so the printer will not wait for the piece to cooldown.
[quote=“biscuitlad”]Yes, don’t get me wrong, the print quality is generally fantastic. The left hand part was flawless. But this slight stringing does spoil the surface finish. I’m going to try and lower the temperature a fraction to see if that eliminates it. I was just hoping that someone could say for certain that’s what it is before I tackle another big print today!
My biggest problem with calibration is that I can’t get the prints off the Buildtak bed. For example, the right hand side model came off easily, but the left hand side required a hammer and chisel! Tried adjusting the Z height but any higher (or lower depending on your viewpoint!) and the first layer doesn’t stick at all.
BTW, that spinning top is a great demonstration of the printer’s ability, but it’s a rubbish spinning top![/quote]
Biscuitlad, have you solved this? Try printing with “minimum layer time = 1” from the Filament settings to avoid resting. If you have my fan duct installed to improve cooling you just might survive 
I have succesfully made some very small small parts this way, diameter ~ 6mm.
[quote=“ronkeli”]Biscuitlad, have you solved this? Try printing with “minimum layer time = 1” from the Filament settings to avoid resting. If you have my fan duct installed to improve cooling you just might survive
I have succesfully made some very small small parts this way, diameter ~ 6mm.[/quote]
Not tried another print similar to that one yet, still fighting my dual nozzle set up! But thanks for the tip.
@biscuitlad - As a newb I just learned this at the forum:
It also seems acceleration is related to this. Have you lowered it from the standard setting of 6000? Possibly it should remain at 6000.
(people like to lower acceleration to prevent layer shift, but that could lead to your issue of stringing if it becomes too low…)
It seems the top layers are small in your model, and the printer moves away for cooling time.
Doing that, it accelerates. If it is not quick enough, plastic is not disattached from the nozzle, so strings are formed away to the side.
So lowering the minimum layer time (as suggested by Ronkeli) would prevent the printer from moving to the side, but might cause crumbling, melting layers instead (layer has no time to solidify before the next is deposited)
… check acceleration?
