Solution for moving rods?

Vertex 3D Printer Vertex - Your printer, creations, and ideas for im
41

wow your rendering is ALOT better than my work lol

i have a machinist looking at making up some sleeves out of steel for me,

red - bearing
chrome - axis rod
black - sleeve mod,

idea is to remove the plates completely nuts bolts the lot, and install a bearing and that sleeve,

then possibly look at this to hold frame together from tension

thingiverse.com/thing:966056

main concern is clearance, but this way it’ll be adjustable online the ultimaker 2 runners that just use pre sized spacers and push on bearing using pulley wheel

42

you can by this readymade as standard-parts, we call it “Stellring” in german (don’t know wich is the right word in english).
There are all possibe dimensions as engineer standards available.

But please think about, that the solution with the ball-plungers have some extensive advantages:

  • you can fine-adjust them and easy secure them with a simple nut (against the thread in the tab)
  • it is done fast and easy (just remove the tabs, modify them and remount, no disassembling of x-y-axis …)
  • easy access from outside (for installation, adjusting and readjusting after all is run in, nothing to do inside the case-edges …)
  • in opposite to the solution with the sleeve, you don’t have to change positions of the gear-wheels to adjust, they should be where the best position is for the belt
43

My version of end cap-s
thingiverse.com/thing:1597457

44

Hey,

has maybe someone tried that bearings?

X6IrBxP.jpg?1803×463

45

Hi,

This is my solution to the problem with the moving rods:

rS9hCzW.jpg3968×2976

I got four new 8mm rods, eight 8mm DIN705 lock rings and 16 M5 washers. The rods were cut to 370mm. I could have made them a couple of mm shorter as you can see in the picture.

You can still use the original axial bearing clamps. The red ones in the picture were part of another solution to solve this problem.

The advantage of this solution, apart from the rods not moving, is that the panels are no longer pushed apart. There is now zero play between the panels.

Regards,
Karl

46

Thats a nice one! Couldn’t you put the lock rings in the inside so there would be no need for longer rods?

47

I guess it should be possible if you can find lock rings with a small enough diameter so that they don’t touch the bearing clamps on the other rod.

You will also have to create bearing clamps with a larger inner diameter so that the lock ring touches the bearing.

By putting the lock rings inside you’ll loose the advantage of keeping the panels tight together though.

48

Digi-bert wrote:

[quote]Just wont to say: my idea only last long if you do lubrication, it works metal on metal.

Do not forget to put grease on the balls of the ballplunger ![/quote]

I think I found out what happens if you forget to renew the grease. I have had 3 cases of the piece behind the nut (for want of a better description) breaking off, leaving the nut exposed and the eventually falling out together with the ball-plunger. It could also be that I tightened the ball plungers too tight. I used PLA with 100% infill, maybe it’s too brittle. Fortunately I had a spare when the first one broke so I could replace the broken one. Then I immediately printed a few spares.

Anyone else seen this? I quite liked the solution actually.

I am going to try Karl’s suggestion - I ordered the parts a few weeks ago but never got round to installing them. Today the 3rd end cap failed so I’ll at least replace that rod, maybe all of them

John

49

thingiverse.com/thing:2357811

With grease on the balls of the ballplunger.

improvement in print (test print) need further settings are required



50

improvement in print no support

youtube.com/embed/EVTEo8MdPQo