Looks even better, you mind uploading it to thingiverse? Or putting it on dropbox for us?
Kind Regards!
JeAfKe
Good evening everyone
I made the change, first the white part to validate the file (created with my cnc) then the parts in blue which I then installed on my machine. the operation is perfect.
I threaded the central hole 8mm , remember to drill the center hole ( printer side) to 12mm 3.5 or 4mm depth.
if anyone is interested I can post the file.
friendly
Jean-Michel
dropbox.com/s/i0q658vqxm5mv … 0.jpg?dl=0
dropbox.com/s/rrbmlkb2z9odd … 8.jpg?dl=0
dropbox.com/s/c5aqt4o7x413j … 9.jpg?dl=0
dropbox.com/s/6glipp48chkz8 … 7.jpg?dl=0
ps sorry for my poor English tks Google!!!
[quote=“jeafke”]Looks even better, you mind uploading it to thingiverse? Or putting it on dropbox for us?
Kind Regards!
JeAfKe[/quote]
Hey,
this weekend I haven’t had much time to do anything because of really bad weather here. No electricity for most part of the weekend and also my 2 year old son takes alot of my time.
But I’ll upload my drawings later on ( my company policies locks onedrive… ).
Still after my 3rd print I realized I couldn’t see if it’s the sphere or the “screw” touching the axis. This meant I had to redo part of the design to have a small window to allow to see if it’s the sphere or the screw holding the axis. This is where i am right now. Having this window will allow 2 things: 1 - See the contact with the axis and 2 - Fine tune the “force” applied.
I’m trying to keep this at 5mm screw to be more aestheticly pleasant. Also need to think on making a small pocket in the same way as the original part ( pretty sure it’s important to garantee the sphere-only contact ).
Update:
This is how it looks without window:
My first try at making a spying window
As you can see I can’t see the sphere…Improving…
nice print!!
to be sure touching the axis, i used my ohmeter beetween the screw and the axis. when the contact is ok, i screw a littel bit more and it’s ok .
i hope you will understand because my English is very bad!!
jm
[quote=“KERGUELEN”]nice print!!
to be sure touching the axis, i used my ohmeter beetween the screw and the axis. when the contact is ok, i screw a littel bit more and it’s ok .
i hope you will understand because my English is very bad!!
jm[/quote]
I do understand.
Still having problems with bridging as you can see in pic.
I just inserted 2 washers between the plate and the plexiglass panel to create a gap to see if the ball is touching or not.
I’m a fucking idiot… As seen on the baggy in the picture on page 1 those are M5 spring plungers… I have no idea how I came on the idea I had installed M3 ones :S
This is complete bullshit I have written previously
[quote=“Wrong info I posted previously”]I’ve used m3 size plungers. But what advantage or disadvantage does a m3 vs a m5 have? My idea was that a smaller surface area touching the rod would reduce friction and allows to have the tension holding the rods in place to be higher which would end up in a lesser moving rod in combination with low added friction.
Does that make sense?
[/quote]
Kind regards
JeAfKe
Hello
can be used any diameter. I used 8mm because I had in stock !! contact with the axis is tangentially so there is no problem.
friendly
Jean-Michel
good idea for washers, you will not have to redo parts!
The smaller the sphere the less course you have to allow axis movement. Also the spring has less strength allowing to rods to actually move.
The contact point of a 3mm sphere or 12mm is basically the same…and that won’t create any friction.
Well…the strength applied by either is, of course, different.
That said I think I have finished my tiny project.
I split it in two parts to allow some tunning of height.
Parts and pictures ( .stl + .CATPart )
I’m still trying to figure how to do some drawings in CATIA so…You might be a bit surprised 
Next challenge…8mm plungers
Hello to all,
i am pleased to see that my idea is well received.
Just wont to say: my idea only last long if you do lubrication, it works metal on metal.
Do not forget to put grease on the balls of the ballplunger !
(you then can not see the ball to adjust the plunger, but if you use normal nuts and the thread runs smooth you can feel the right adjustment )
[quote=“Digi-Bert”]Hello to all,
i am pleased to see that my idea is well received.
Just wont to say: my idea only last long if you do lubrication, it works metal on metal.
Do not forget to put grease on the balls of the ballplunger !
(you then can not see the ball to adjust the plunger, but if you use normal nuts and the thread runs smooth you can feel the right adjustment )[/quote]
Your idea sparked all this. I’d say to not use any kind of oil. It gets bad really fast. Use refined vaseline.
Design updated for 8mm locking nut.
It’s a fast one. Might need some support.
I haven’t tried these ones as I think they’re abit overkill 
Make one and gimme a shout
Again I made them in a two part to allow to make thicker or slimmer ones.
Oil not there, for shure.
I used the word lubrication in generally, i mean with ‘do lubrication’ the same as ‘do not run it dry’.
As i wrote earlier i recommend a technical grease without bad effects to plastics, for instance “Klüber 46MR401” or “Rivolta MZF4003”.
Best size of the ballplungers is M5 for this application.
I understood. I was speaking in general terms. Oil has the bsd effect of getting too thick after some time and turning black and also grabing alot of dust and stuff… Vaseline is alot cleaner and wont turn thick. Also is a very nice cleanning liquid. Good to use after fiddling the printer and touching the rods or other metalic parts by accident.
Good morning,
received my parts last week.
Now I am wondering, if the changes to be made are for one site only, or do you guys replace the parts on both sites of each rod.
I would guess, that one site is enough…
Please advise…
Good morning
i replace the parts both sides of each rods because if you change only on side the other continue to become flat and the rod play again.
sorry for my bad English!
jean michel
goog morning JM,
thanks for your reply…
I am going to print the items in a few minutes…
So your advise came right on spot :-)))
By
Frank
“Ball plunger” is the searchword to use on Ebay.
Installed these ages ago after this post! Massive thanks knocking went! I did however use m3 plungers,
I’m working on something in the pipeline with one of my metal guys, may be of some help to eliminate the knocking by swapping out the 608z bearings for f608s, just got my machine back so got a lot of stuff to do but will post up the concept asap!
I like a set screwed bearing, if that’s what you’re thinking about, better than both metal-plastic abrasion and metal-metal abrasion with feeder mechanism.
Here’s a render I just did of what I’ve been toying around with:
It replaces the end cap and the axial bearing clamp and introduces a spacer. It’s based on the solution used in the UM2.