No, I do not like Cura. Does not matter the reasons.
Anyone got a good setup for Slic3r to share with me?
Preferably dual head variants.
Thanks in advance.
No, I do not like Cura. Does not matter the reasons.
Anyone got a good setup for Slic3r to share with me?
Preferably dual head variants.
Thanks in advance.
Hi Erik, setting up slic3r is pretty straightforward. just set up the bed size and nr of nozzles, and you’re ready to go. Default start and end code works for me.
I would recommend reading the slic3r manual on the website. Settings greatly depend on the object properties and material you’re printing with…
When you’re printing objects with thin walls, don’t use gapfill as it has a bug. If you run into problems, just ask.
Thank you.
The main point is what numbers on X & Y to give the second head and where?!
haven’t tried dual head printing.
But you can set extruder offset in the printer-extruder settings.
for checking things I always find it usefull to import(load) the (slic3r)gcode file into repetier host, this is much faster for checking layers and overall object positioning.
There was a box to tick, a fairly discreet one at that.
Everything works as expected now.
Now I just need to get the PVA filament to work to.
Did you succeed with PVA?
I already tried to print this material, but I had two problems:
1: PVA didn’t held on Buildtak foil. I was mentioned some times in this forum and I can confitm this.
2): The specification of the PVA material gives a small thermal band for operation. With the unsufficent thermal control of mny printer I often left this band during printing. During overtemp periodes I heard a crackling in the nozzle, short time later the filament stucked.
What is your experience?
Hm… What thermal band is that?
The crackling ought to be absorbed water exploding out of the filament.
PVA must be dried thoroughly, just as with nylon, before use.
I’ll get back on results ones I get my KaTeX up and running properly.
For my brand (Lay PVA, purchased Oct. 2015) the operation temperature was specified with 205 … 220°C.
For 205°C the filament is not sufficient liquid, at 225°C the material is cracking and clogging the nozzle.
So with a target temperature of 215°C I got lost with any attempt to print this material. A special problem was the insufficient thermal control of the nozzle: the normal thermal band was ± 5°C during operation, with peak deviations up to nearly 10°C. These peaks make the feeder click, either by too hard material or by cracked material.