Hi!
Has anyone got good results for longer bridges like 5 to 10cm?
With basic settings you can print short (1-3cm) bridges, but not any longer.
Ok, sure you can, but not with good results.
In Cura there is no additional settings for bridges…
-S-
I miss such settings too. Would be great if there was something like bridge speed and flow rate setting like in slic3r.
So you can?? 
Well I can’t yet… I have been trying, these are my 20 mm PLA overhang tests :
It looks there is an optimal speed, but increasing the speed further is not helping much.
I also wonder how Niyoki made the arms of the action figure, if not with support…
Maybe this is a goodtopic to ask for some overhang advice? TNX
My best settings were the top part, the thing layer was clearly worse, and so was the slower speed.
Settings: PLA , 195 dgrs, 78% extruder
[quote=“Sketch”]So you can?? Well I can’t yet… I have been trying, these are my 20 mm PLA overhang tests :
It looks there is an optimal speed, but increasing the speed further is not helping much.
I also wonder how Niyoki made the arms of the action figure, if not with support…
Maybe this is a goodtopic to ask for some overhang advice? TNX
My best settings were the top part, the thing layer was clearly worse, and so was the slower speed.
Settings: PLA , 195 dgrs, 78% extruder[/quote]
Hello,
action figure was layed down and printed.
Regards
Niyazi
You could go for support settings
Tnx ! I could also use ribs for my next print…
The figure was laying down… sometimes the solution is so simple!!
On the parts you are showing you could just print them on their side like you have them in the picture.
I get good results (slic3r) with fan blowing at 65 percent, 40mm/s, PLA temp at 170-175, ratio of .9. (this is with a calibrated steps/mm for the extruder)
Ran 6 tests, and this is the best for me for 5cm bridges. Nothing I would use in a design, since supports always runs circles around bridges. Bridges are always worse than supported prints.
Thanks for sharing those settings!
But not only for bridges, I will try them on the eyebrows of a Marvin key chain figure for example.
So… combining it…
Bridges (avoid where you can, support if you can)
40 mm/s; low speed
thicker layer, much better
low extrusion temperature… PLA ca 185 (175 was melted together too poorly. I just tested this… but i did lower it from 195! tnx)
Result is getting better:
and still to test:
reduced extrusion 0,9 (I am at 78% maybe that’s comparable)
fan 65 - these two settings i would try first, but ok!
Additonal settings in Cura … I agree, then you don’t have to use the low speed fr the whole model.
I used this thingiverse bridge to perform the bridge tests;
With slic3r you can split parts in 2 pcs. if you use this, you can purely focus on the hard part of your print (eyes and eyelet for hanging it on your keychain). That way you don’t need to wait for the entire part to finish. Saves both time and filament.
I personally think that the design of the extruder-head isn’t very suitable for long bridges or small parts; there is no way of getting decent cooling to the part, the heated block sits too close to the printed part. (which is good from a printing point of view, the heat needs is exactly where you want it, at the closest end of the filament as possible, but from the point of view of the printed part, with smaller parts (~2x2mm parts/towers), it’s a PITA to cool the part properly.
Cooling the part is a challenge with the design of the k8400.