Ok, then some questions about your config. The extrusion multiplier seems reasonable at 1.07, but I doubt the filament diameter is exactly 3 mm. Can you measure that (at different angles, in case the cross-section is elliptical)? You calibrated the multiplier to have 0.5 mm wall width; was the perimeter extrusion width also set to 0.5 mm during the calibration prints?
It really is exactly 3mm best I can measure with my old calipers. Ill pick up a digital tomorrow.
[quote] You calibrated the multiplier to have 0.5 mm wall width; was the perimeter extrusion width also set to 0.5 mm during the calibration prints?
[/quote]
No, it was at 0.45mm. Hmm. now Im confused lol.
I think I have the same problem.
I did print the frog in ABS and it looks nice, but adding a small amount of force to it an it was breaking apart. The layers simply don’t stick together. with 3 perimeters and 0.3 infill I could break it apart.
I did print it with 255 deg. Can ABS be printed with too much heat? making it “dry” and fragile?
Hi,
[quote=“P4man”]It really is exactly 3mm best I can measure with my old calipers. Ill pick up a digital tomorrow.[/quote]nothing against a good 1:10 or 1:20 nonius caliper, they’re never out of batteries. Apart from one thing, which is the …
[quote=“P4man”]No, it was at 0.45mm.[/quote]… single wall calibration, where 0.01 mm resolution is required to see the differences.
I rechecked the test-prints I made with white ABS (non-Velleman). They seem to have this, too, but to a lower extent I’d say. I was able to break the structure along the layers, but I had no problems before, e.g. when using a bit of force to pull the parts off the heatbed.
This reminds me: a German computer magazine had some articles about 3D printing last autumn, among them one with focus on polishing and hardening (!) of ABS prints in Acetone vapor. The RepRap-forum also has several threads on both topics, poor layer adhesion as well as hardening with Acetone. So this is no confined issue, but rather a general one. Which in turn means, that there’s also a larger number of possible solutions, so it’s going to cost some time to find the one relevant here …
Cheers,
kuraasu
PS: as a first result, the black ABS from Velleman prints with good layer adhesion at 240 °C if the fan is left off. Of course, that’s bad for overhanging structures that like to curl up, but at least it’s a start.
Here is my latest experiment, after lying a bit and setting filament width to 2.95, causing some over extrusion
The result is quite strong, but it still split mid print.
One more thing I read; we might have better success using a larger nozzle. Cant hurt to try with a 0.5mm one.
Anyway, I think Im going back to PLA for now. Ive ordered an improved heated bed and I intend to build some sort of shroud around the printer, then I may revisit ABS. And perhaps Nylon. Anyone tried that yet?
Tried the cooling shroud I linked earlier:
Seems to work fine, and looks very cool, but its obstructing the view too much, especially with small prints its annoying.
BTW, when switching back from ABS to PLA and modifying my slicer settings, I encountered a bug thats been reported a few times, that changing Slic3r settings and saving them doesnt change anything, they revert to the previous value after you click the save icon. Its as if the ini file somehow got corrupted. You can change the value manually in the file, but even after that, changes in the GUI are not written to the file, so something is still wrong.
I do wonder if that may explain some of the issues I had with ABS where changing certain parameters seemed to make almost no difference.
Anyway, I started again with a blank config (and newest versions of repetier and slicer), and Ive been printing with the E3D trouble free, although in PLA.
Can you share your config files?
I wonder if anybody will design a nice fan shroud. I’d really need one but I suck at designing these kinds of parts.
~ Tectu
switched to Cura. This is my config for cura:
CURA_PROFILE_STRING:eNrtV0tv20YQvhJGf8QcUzRml5TkPARektq5xEVQu6jj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careful, if you copy the above while cura is open, it will apply instantly without asking or warning. Kinda weird.
As for the fan, IM using this:
thingiverse.com/thing:197397
But it wont help you mount it. For that, I just used an alumium plate and dremeled an opening in it to slide the hotend in. NOt elegant, but works fine. See also pics above.
I just stumbled upon this, and thought Id post it here. In order to mount the E3D on our K8200, I think this ought to work:
plastic2print.com/eu/jhead-a … mount.html
It looks almost exactly like the plate I improvised.
Of course, kuraasu’s mount will work just as well, but the advantage of using a bracket is that you are free to use various designs on thingiverse for cooling both the hotend and print.
Of course you can also use such a bracket. Just keep in mind that the distance of the mounting holes on most of these brackets is not 30 mm but more like 45 mm or similar. Also, the groove can only be mounted several mm below the extruder base since the space there is already occupied by the extruder mounting plate and its bolts. For shorter hotends like J-Head or Merlin, this can work well, since they need an adapter to get to the same nozzle height as the original hotend anyway. E3D however is a different story, but you’ve probably already seen that yourself.
Cheers,
kuraasu
Why is the fan needed on the hotend?
Also, how much speed does the fan need to be?
And where did you connect the fan to?
Maybe looking to buy a E3D-v5 hotend…
Thank you
[quote=“Citystars”]Why is the fan needed on the hotend?
Also, how much speed does the fan need to be?
And where did you connect the fan to?
Maybe looking to buy a E3D-v5 hotend…
Thank you[/quote]
The fan is to cool the metal heatbreak. The idea is to maximize the temperature gradient so that the filament melts only in the nozzle and not higher up. That gives better retraction and less chance of getting stuck. The fan is included with the nozzle, I have no idea what speed it runs. Its audible not not overly so and airflow is fairly minimal.
To connect it, I had no problems because I reconfigured my printer to work at 12V. If you are running yours with the stock PSU, its probably not a bad idea to power the fan separately with some wallmart style 12V power adapter.
Hi Citystars,
complementary (and to some point in parallel) to P4man’s post,
[quote=“Citystars”]Why is the fan needed on the hotend?
Also, how much speed does the fan need to be?
And where did you connect the fan to?[/quote]
the E3D is an all-metal hotend, so the heat transfer from the heater block up towards the extruder is high. To ensure that the mount and the larger part of the bore guiding the filament stays cool, there is a so-called heat-break (the thin tube between heater block and barrel), and the barrel has fins to enlarge the surface for better cooling. The fan is used to ensure airflow through the fins. It’s recommended to run it at full power (12 V) while the hotend is active.
Currently, I use a board which has a special fan connector for this, powering the fan anytime the hotend is above 50 °C (this function is already integrated in the firmware). After switching off the hotend, the fan runs approx. 8 minutes until this limit is reached.
- If you want to emulate this behavior with the original controller board, you’d need a small addon electronic circuit (do you have experience in that area?).
- Second version would be to connect the fan directly to the power supply. Drawback is that this means 15 V on a 12 V fan. May work, but could also fail pretty badly, thus no good long-term solution. Pro and con: if the printer is on, the fan is on. Annoying, but you can’t forget to switch it on. The voltage issue can be solved with electronics.
- Third option is to use a separated 12 V power supply for this fan. A fairly small one (lower watts range) is sufficient for the fan, but you need to make sure that it’s switched on when needed. Easiest solution, greatest risk, like so often.
Cheers
kuraasu
are you using the stock board for the k8200?
yes i know a fair amount of electronics.
do you have schematics for the small electronic board?
Hi Citystars,
[quote=“Citystars”]are you using the stock board for the k8200?
yes i know a fair amount of electronics.
do you have schematics for the small electronic board?[/quote]
no, at the moment a Rumba is mounted. But my (repaired) board should arrive any day, so I’ll have to get working on this soon.
As for the electronics: NE555. Basically, the necessary circuit is a retriggerable monoflop with time span of 8 mins. Plus a small MOSFET for switching and a 7812 for voltage regulation.
Cheers
kuraasu
PS: almost forgot, I was thinking of a similar circuit like the one already posted by donmillo here.
[quote=“kuraasu”]Hi Citystars,
[quote=“Citystars”]are you using the stock board for the k8200?
yes i know a fair amount of electronics.
do you have schematics for the small electronic board?[/quote]
no, at the moment a Rumba is mounted. But my (repaired) board should arrive any day, so I’ll have to get working on this soon.
As for the electronics: NE555. Basically, the necessary circuit is a retriggerable monoflop with time span of 8 mins. Plus a small MOSFET for switching and a 7812 for voltage regulation.
Cheers
kuraasu
PS: almost forgot, I was thinking of a similar circuit like the one already posted by donmillo here.[/quote]
Ok, but for the trigger what do you use then for it?
Also will you use the ne555 as 8min on and 8min off or allways on or?
Would it then not be better to just to put the fan over the 15/12V with resistor for little bit lower speed thats always on?
Hi Citystars,
[quote=“Citystars”]Ok, but for the trigger what do you use then for it?
Also will you use the ne555 as 8min on and 8min off or allways on or?
Would it then not be better to just to put the fan over the 15/12V with resistor for little bit lower speed thats always on?[/quote]
the trigger is of course the hotend heater output. The idea is as follows: if the heater is switched on, so is the fan. Only when the heater has had no current in 8 minutes, the fan will go off (since then the hotend will be cooled down enough by then). In between, the fan is always on, and everytime the heater cartridge is switched on for a few seconds, the 8 min countdown is reset. This is called a re-triggerable monoflop.
As mentioned before, you can of course also connect the fan (with voltage adaption) to the main power. But this way, it will not switch off before the printer itself is switched off. I often have the printer standing right next to me on my desk while designing, and I don’t want to have the fan running all the time. However, if your situation is different, this solution (fan on main power) may be the one of your choice.
A resistor could work as well. I don’t have the specs of the fan available at the moment, but a few ten ohms should do it. The resistor should probably be one with 1/2 W or larger power rating.
Cheers,
kuraasu
Is there a manner to limit the max power taken by the e3d hotend the hotend heats twice as fast as the original and I am afraid that this will damage the PCB.
I was thinking either a gcode string or in Marlin firmware?
Hi bour12,
yes, you can set the firmware to reduce the heating power. Look for the line “#define PIDTEMP” in Configuration.h. The block of settings following this line contains all the necessary parameters including comments on their function. The limits (BANG_MAX, PID_MAX) have to be set in the firmware. The PID parameters Kp, Ki, and Kd can be tuned and set using M commands (M303 and M301) in Repetier Host, plus they are also accessable through its EEPROM dialog. Here’s some more on that topic.
Also, please keep in mind (as noted in the other thread, too), that by this method you can only reduce the average current, but not the peak current. With the 40 W (12 V!) heater cartridge, you need to recheck whether the printer’s power consumption still matches the supply.
Cheers,
kuraasu
I left the 8200 behind me, on of the reasons where the extruder limitations.
At this moment i have a self build, very sturdy printer, with a bulldog XL extruder, and a E3D hotend.
This hotend is really really good, i can print almost everything with it, and i can go as high as my thermistor allows me.
Advantage of e3d for me:
Zero ooze!!
Very good controlable (no heat going up in the head), i have only the fan of the bulldog extruder, and even with that, the E3D stays cool.
Super easy change of nozzle, and very fine nozzles available.
I can really advise all of you who are searching for the limits to go that route! (i mean replacing the Velleman hotend)