After a break for ordering replacement pulleys I am now trying to get back to printing my first object. The settings should not have changed from last time (and I expected a better print job than the last, which had shifted layers - hence the break due to faulty pulleys) but for some reason the printer is now waiting for a heated bed, that doesn’t even exist, to reach a certain temperature.
I reinstalled the Repetier Host (downloaded from the Vertex3DPrinter Downloads page) so that I would get the pre-entered settings but they still aren’t the same as displayed in the “Repetier explained” instructions, so I could only correct them for those parts visible in the image.
I tried to find all options that mention the Heated Bed and turned that value to 0.
I also decided to give the printer the Single Print Head firmware (despite a second one installed, but that’s not going to be used for some while).
I am not sure why it keeps wanting that heated bed…
In the Printer Settings of the software, under Extruder, is another option for the bed temperature… but if I change that the field turns red, so I haven’t done it yet. Is it safe to do so? Will that actually be of any help?
The easier way is to comment the line “{IF_BED}M190 S{BED}” in the Start G-code (Cura settings). Then it won’t try to heat the bed.
[quote=“datalabs”]In the Printer Settings of the software, under Extruder, is another option for the bed temperature… but if I change that the field turns red, so I haven’t done it yet. Is it safe to do so? Will that actually be of any help?[/quote]You don’t have to modify this setting as it isn’t used by Cura.
@Wrong Way
That’s exactly what I’ve done. But guess what, I tried again today, making sure this is on 0, and it worked this time. I was pretty sure I chose the correct configuration before slicing, but apparently it wasn’t the case.
@Raby
If I was to enter that bit of code in what line should I put it? As there is a sequence to things I suppose somewhere in the middle, but where?
Thanks! It seems sometimes one just have to sleep over it.
Now I’ll just have to sort out the printhead from skipping all over the place. If getting the rods to be parallel is SO IMPORTANT to a common problem of shifted layers, why not add a tool for that purpose to the kit? I’ve seen someone print such a tool but if I was able to print it myself I didn’t need the tool. xD
The most important thing is the distance between the X/Y clamps which is usually to small.
The right procedure is :
remove all belts
adjust the clamps to get the 2 axis running smoothly from side to side (must move when tilting the printer).
put the belts in place
Place the spacers to get the rods // (you can use anything allowing you to set the same distance like 2 blocks of wood or 2 identical open-end wrenches).
align the pulleys to have the belts touching the inner edge. The belts must run straight and not from one side to the other.
I can only think of 1 reason (there may be more) that it didn’t work the first time.
Did you save the settings after the change?
That part always gets me.
@Wrong Way
Yeah, I thought I had. I certainly have now and it is working perfectly.
I have changed the distance between the clamps until both sides could slide on their own when tilting the printer. It really should have been mentioned in the instructions at that point. Also, once the belts are back and the pulleys tightened it doesn’t move as easily anymore so it’s really hard to understand/feel the difference.
At least, this seemed to do the trick. My first two test prints are fine.
Now on to quality improvement.
Thanks for the help!
