I believe that it is important to recommend that people building this kit obtain a wire stripper that works properly on the 30 gauge wire included in the kit. It takes a certain “feel” to be able to strip 30 gauge with a pair of cutters as shown. With such small conductors, putting a knick in the wire will either reduce the number of strands, which can increase resistance, or yield a connection that despite having been soldered, breaks inside the heat shrink and becomes intermiittent, possibly causing some of temperature and motor drive problems reported here.
In addition, while dial calipers are certainly a great idea, not all builders may be able to justify the cost. Hobby stores sell a plastic vernier caliper , that while a little more difficult to use would be useful for relative measurements as a 'go" “no go”
gauge like when lining up the x axis rod mounts relative to the extrusions. There you would be concerned about the relative clearances rather than a measurement accurate to 4 decimal places.
As several other builders have done, I replaced all the kit wining with 22 to 24 gauge tripled up for the hot end and heater bed to reduce the electrical resistance. I just reflected the red, black, blue green color code of the motors and twisted the conductors with a drill before soldering them to the motors. The twist will in theory reduce the radiated noise from inductive kick as the motor windings are cycled.
The only issue I had was that I broke both of the hot end thermistors while attempting to attach them to the leads. apparently, the little glass bead does not tolerate having its leads spread apart too far. In the first case, I got unstable mutimeter readings from the thermistor and on very close inspection, i realize I had chipped the glass envelope. On the second try, the thermistor just cracked in two. I have a replacement due in soon and I can’t wait. All other wiring checked out, but you cant run the hot end or the extruder unless the controller is getting input from a thermistor. I hit on the idea of using some available gold plated pins that are meant to be inserted into a female d sub connector. I crimped the pins to the white wires and then cut the female end shorter these should form a tiny solder cup for the new thermistor wires that will still fit under the sleeving and clear the mounting screw.
I was able to run the steppers in manual mode except for the extruder after I temporarily wired a 100k resistor across the white and black thermistor wires.
I consider this kit to be an excellent value for the money, and I appreciate the thought and effort that went into the manual as well as the “safety interlocks” in the software.