after printing with my k8200 for 4 years now i never had this issue… I recently switched to the Z axis upgrade and upgraded the firmware as instructed. I also did a PID auto tune because i have another hot end that had an unstable temperature.
As i was printing and reaching the best performance i ever had, it stopped. The controller on the printer went blank and the leds went off, except for the USB leds they stay on and don’t blink anymore. My pc recognizes the USB going in and out my pc but when i try to connect it times out, no response of printer. The PSU is still working. As it is now i don’t get anything on my controller and i am quite scared the controller board might be broken.
I think the power isn’t getting trough on the board, the usb leds don’t flash and i can’t get connection and as i said the controller screen doesn’t turn on.
[quote=“Wrong Way”]Check for 15 volts dc at the blue connector on the control board.
From your description it sound like the power supply is not working[/quote]
I have already measured the PSU and it’s voltage is over mosfet above it (i think it’s a mosfet).
[quote=“Wrong Way”]The image did not show up.
You will need to post the picture on a free website and put the link up here.
Make sure it has public access[/quote]
Sorry I’m not neat my printer right now but I think that is the 5 volt regulator.
Put you negative lead on the negative side of the blue connector them measure each pin by itself.
You should see 15 volts on one leg 0 on the middle and 5 volts on the other.
[quote=“Wrong Way”]Sorry I’m not neat my printer right now but I think that is the 5 volt regulator.
Put you negative lead on the negative side of the blue connector them measure each pin by itself.
You should see 15 volts on one leg 0 on the middle and 5 volts on the other.[/quote]
I’m not near it it right now aswell, but thanks for the suggestion ! If i measure 15 volts accros it it means one is 0 and the other +15 so it might be blown i think.
Does this by any chance supply the hot end of energy too ? I did a PID autotune the day before it blew up. And also uploaded the new marlin with the Z axes upgrade.
[quote=“Wrong Way”]The card supplies power to everything.
Since the USB LEDs are on it sounds like the 5 volts is not getting out to the card[/quote]
I ment that mosfet in perticular. Hm yh i don’t think it is too because the controller isn’t powered and the usb’s are not flashing. So what could it be the regulator busted ?
Different power socket ? Lol i’m not throwing away my printer for a mosfet that costs like 4€ tops.
Costumer care won’t do any good lol they’ll instruct me to give them more money and buy another PCB. I’m an electrical engineer so i’ll have a go at it, but it’s really nice to get some insight from people who already have spent time on these boards.
[quote=“lebrou”]But don’t buy an original new board for 100+ euro’s
Mine got broken, and i bought a Ramps 1.4 board in China, for about 20 euro’s
It’s working good.[/quote]
I have already ordered one hehe. How did you install it ? Dif you used à guide or have some tips ?
I’ve ordered a ramps and also fixed my board now. I will prob still switch to the ramps because it has a really nice screen and has allot more possibilities.
The copper lead of the positive therminal burned trough and was acting as a resistor, that’s why i only got 3 or something volt out of it. I measured trough the section with a multi meter and bridged the ones that were broken with a 1.5mm² wire that won’t burn trough any time soon. I also snapped off the screw therminals and soldered some wires to the board instead. I used PID autotune and the hotend’s switching + the heatbed was enough to burn it trough it seems. I would have to look into putting a fuse in there lol.
Switch your printer to the different power socket. If the problem persists, call the printer customer care or buy a new printer. 3d printing rapid prototyping mumbai pune
