I have printed Fan Holder part which is downloaded from thingverse.
Bottom section of the part is nearly good (not totally)
But upper side (rib and mounting interface) seems really bad.
Can you guess the reason for this?
Printed part photos:
I am using PLA as material.
Slicer is used for gcode. And Slicer config is shared below:
What is your opinion for this bad result?
Best Regards;
Looks like your extrusion is uneven.
Did you use cooling?
Check if your extruder stalls or skips steps during print.
Also check if the filament is correctly fed forward by the hobbed bolt. (no grinding, no slipping)
cheers,
Christian
[quote=“ichbinsnur”]Looks like your extrusion is uneven.
Did you use cooling?
Check if your extruder stalls or skips steps during print.
Also check if the filament is correctly fed forward by the hobbed bolt. (no grinding, no slipping)
cheers,
Christian[/quote]
You can see that planar bottom part is much better than the other section. If there is permanent problem shouldnt it affect all sections?
I recorded video while printing. I’ve just watch it again. I realized that extruder is skipping step for very short second or it may be usual motion (stopping for very short time may be proper)
In my first try, extruder disk was stalling. I have raised working voltage of the stepper to 0.7V and I have mounted motor and extrusion gears with some backlash (in order to get loose contact for the gears.) Becouse pinion and gear always stall at the same orientation. I guess teeth on the pinion or gear is not concentric to rotating shaft.
After those tuning described above. Extrusion gear was rotating without skipping or stalling.
Cooling fan is not working at the beggining, it starts working after some minutes (auto cooling mode is on)
I guess filament is fed properly. because I can extrude some material on manuel control mode. Do you have any suggestion to check it?
Can be the fan runs to fast, thus cooling the hotend down and clogging the nozzle.
Try printing without, or with less cooling.
[quote=“ichbinsnur”]Can be the fan runs to fast, thus cooling the hotend down and clogging the nozzle.
Try printing without, or with less cooling.[/quote]
Actually whole brass parts of nozzle assembly is wrapped with silicon tape in order to insulate those parts thermally.
Therefore, I guess that cooling fan will not cool the hotend. But, i will try without cooling.
Do you think that configuration of Slicer or Repetier can cause this problem?
Can you share optiumum config for printing PLA?
In my other print I also see some problems. for example vertical walls was very thin.
And the printer was trying to fill the wall section with huge vibration. I think it was due to high frequency and low displacement of movement.
Are you using special config for filling or honey comb structures.
[quote=“Sdt_Dmr”]
In my other print I also see some problems. for example vertical walls was very thin.
And the printer was trying to fill the wall section with huge vibration. I think it was due to high frequency and low displacement of movement.
Are you using special config for filling or honey comb structures.[/quote]
That can be the case too.
Very little filemant feed over time can lead to the filament melting inside the PTFE part and cause jams.
My Machine is heavily modified and has an E3D Hotend, so my settings won’t fit for you.
But i generally use curaengine for slicing.
It gives better results for most parts and is WAY faster than slic3r.
Curaengine is included in the recent repetier host versions.
Maybe give it a try.
When you adjusted the reference voltage did you set them at 0.55?
anything over 0.6 and they will over heat the 0.425 is really to low.
[quote=“Wrong Way”]When you adjusted the reference voltage did you set them at 0.55?
anything over 0.6 and they will over heat the 0.425 is really to low.[/quote]
My Z motor and Extruder motor drivers are setti 0.75V and there is no problem. I am using heat sinks on motor drivers and also cooling them with 80mm fan.
Also motors do not heat up much.
Filament diameter of 1.75 ?
Extruder temerature to high. 190 degrees C would be enough.
Hi,
Did you have any success with the suggestions? I have the same problems and still have not found an answer and cannot get consistently good quality parts. Did you try curaengine?
I am continuing with slicer.
I have added 60mm fan for cooling fast.
But it has not solved the problem completely.
Did you check the screw for the small gear?
Is it tight?
Are the gears to close together?
Does the bearing on the inside of the extruder turn freely?
Hi There
It looks as if it printed the large area reasonably well, but went wrong when it had the smaller areas to work on. This looks as if the extruder was slightly clogged, and/or the hobbed bolt started slipping.
To start with, always set up the backlash of the extruder gears with some filament in. This will push the hobbed bolt sideways and will tighten the mesh of the gears. Check that the pinch bearing holder is free to move properly. If you didn’t file down the ends of the bolt that holds it together, they can rub on the aluminium sides of the extruder head. The holder can move sideways a bit, so if the bold protrudes, can stick part way through a print. This allows the hobbed bolt to slip.
I would recommend making a spool holder with bearings for the filament. Any extra force needed to pull the filament can help to make the hobbed bolt slip. You always start a print with the filament fairly loose on the spool, and it will tighten up as the print progresses.
Alter the retraction distance in the slic3r settings. Take the distance down to at least 1mm. I think the default was 4mm. If the hot end of the filament is retracted too much into a cooler part of the extruder, then that may cause it to stick. the hobbed bolt will still try to feed, but instead it will grind into the filament. It might restart again, but the bits of the grinding will cause it to stick further on - and so on! Also the extra retraction amount will cause extra wear in the filament if there are a lot of retractions close together in time. This will also cause the hobbed bolt to loose traction.
The hobbed bolt itself is not perfect. Other people have used a Dremel to sharpen the teeth. I personally put in a Hobb Goblin bolt from E3d. No problems with slipping now.
The other problems can be caused by the action of slic3r. When the print requires a lot of small zig-zag movements to fill up a small area, then the amount of filament around the nozzle can cause a bit of back pressure up the nozzle and cause a partial blockage.
Try slowing the print speed down to allow the filament to lay down properly in these small movements.
I find that Cura is better in many ways to Slic3r. The movements required by the printer seem much more gentle, and the honeycomb effect that shakes the printer (and makes your teeth rattle) is replaced by the quieter criss cross pattern. The small zig-zag movements are different too, thus helping to keep the nozzle clear.
One last thing - filaments vary quite a bit in quality. I am hooked on Rigidink, which seems to be very stable between reels. But some filaments can be nothing but trouble.
You will now have information overload! Don’t give up though.
Happy printing
Peter
I always had problems with slic3r , curaengine is much better.
ok, I just builded the K8200 so i’m also in testing mode.
The print result is at this moment also not so good.
But general rule is:
ideal print is always linked to temperature extruder, the speed of the wire that the extruder motor is pushing the filament trough the nozzle and the X/Y speeds and quality of the filament.
About temperature: there is no such thing that claims that 190° will do it right.
okay, most of the time with PLA but if You got print problems, you should rise up this extruder temperature in steps of 5°C tot maximum 210°C and see yourself wat the differences are. Golden rule is : temp never too high.
Hello, it seems that your extrusion rate is not good, just try some other software default values like :
filament diameter 2.97 and 1.00 extrusion multiplier
or
filament diameter 3.00 and 0.90 extrusion multiplier
and before begin with Velleman default printer config
