As title says my prints won’t stick to the glass. I’m am using a non heated bed and I be tried the methods applying stick and cleaning glass with acetone. Anybody a good advice?
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It will stick sorry but after some layers it will curve on the corners
Is this for the K8200 or the K8400?
For the K8400 apply the buildtak and set a correct nozzle height.
Manually turn the z motor a little bit clockwise.
For the K8200 you should use a heated bed on pure glass.
Hello, it is for the k8400 and for the buildtak it is perfectly calibrated. If I do what you say the print will not be so good since PLA WILL BE CRUSHED on the buildtank and the layer will be very think almost invisible
Did you add an brim?
You can add this in repetier Slice -> Adhesion Type ->From dopdown menu Brim
Another thing you can try is make the first layer wider i print at times with 250% inc on the first layer width to inc adhesion. Another thing you can try is for the first layer lower the temp with about 5-10 degree C on the buildtak that helps inc the adhesion also but that is with PLA based filaments thow.
// Marlark
No havent add a brim since the print itself takes alot of time to be printed but I will try that thanks. About making the first layer wider how can I do that? 250% what? Flow? You mean increases the feedrate at 250%?
I also bought blue painter tape but havent tried that yet, you think that may help?
Thanks in advance.
PLA will stick perfectly on Blue painters tape (any paper tape works imho…) or if you heat your glass plate to about 60C° It will stick to glass fairly well without anything else (*Clean Clean Clean glass and enough adhesion surface)
If ur starting and ruined the buildtak a good alternative for starting with is the velours decoration foil… The bottom of your prints will have some crap embedded but it is perfect for getting started and very easy to print on and testing stuff on…
I’ve already ruined the sticker on the buildtak so I flipped it over and that’s why I’m printing on glass. Bought today blue painter tape going to try it soon. Will it work on any type of painter tape? Coz I mean the blue is made to resist the heat. Will the white one resist too?
Thanks in advance
I used both, the white very wide 50mm which worked, but got ruined pretty much every print and had to be replaced very often… The blue I could only get in 20mm and was a little tougher and could withstand like 2 or 3 prints if I was lucky… Velours is the Thing you can print like 50 times on and just swap it because you think its getting dirty 
But biggest drawback is the embedded particles on the bottom of your prints… But if ur starting with all this 3d printing stuff and having huge adhesion issues I can only say try it and build-up some experience and finetune the machine with that instead of those expensive Buildtak(crap) stickers. Most likely your going to invest in a heatbed after a while and you can forget about all that adhesion will it stick or not headache…
Btw I’m using a “Marlark” heatbed in combo with a 3mm 240mmx240mm glass plate with polyimide tape on.
Kind regards!
JeAfKe
Did you try UHU or PRIT glue stick?
But heated bed with clean glass runs perfectly without anything (PLA)
I struggled to get PLA to stick on clean glass. I use a couple of layers of diluted PVA glue (diluted 1:10 with water) which I just wipe on with a cloth, it dries very quickly and the prints stick nicely and can be removed very easily. Once applied you can use it for quite a few prints before it needs to be re-applied.
I gave up using BuildTak because it worked almost too well, it was very hard to remove the prints without gouging it up. Also compared to the cost of new BuildTak sheets the glue solution is absurdly cheap.
I can acknowledge this.
Actually, I do not use additional water, just the glue stick in general, but I will check that one.
I used ABS slurry, and it worked perfect as well.
Unfortunately, you have to use the right color for the slurry, otherwise you get little “overlay” of the acetone-ABS mix on the ground of the PLA object. So black slurry on light green PLA gives you a very thin grey layer.
Which can be removed by a newly acetone polish… which is additional work
So a super clean glass plate with a heated bed or just the glue stick will do
I had a 17x17cm fan grid on a clean glass plate in PLA (Velleman PLA BLACK, 195°C, 60° bed) without warping.
Using ordinary soap fluid and a towel and renting it with a lot of warm water
Best
Frank
[quote=“snic”]I struggled to get PLA to stick on clean glass. I use a couple of layers of diluted PVA glue (diluted 1:10 with water) which I just wipe on with a cloth, it dries very quickly and the prints stick nicely and can be removed very easily. Once applied you can use it for quite a few prints before it needs to be re-applied.
I gave up using BuildTak because it worked almost too well, it was very hard to remove the prints without gouging it up. Also compared to the cost of new BuildTak sheets the glue solution is absurdly cheap.[/quote]
Manager to find a solution and afterall everything is gained from experience but your help was really useful. It was just about calibrating the buildtak and just added a blue tape for small prints. My object wasn’t sticking because calibration was dead and object was very large to be printed in one piece.
What I do now is blue tape simply for small object, add PRIT glue on tape for medium objects and both of them plus a good design on sketchyp for larger objects. Since large layers will warp all I managed to find by experience and some,maths was that I could try to add some ARCs and CIRCLEs on the lines of the object to separate the long distances but still keep it in one piece
Thanks all for all but,got some other questions now 
When printing 2-3 objects at the same time and the head is travelling from object to object it will leave behind white thin line like the nozzle is overfeed and is pushing it out without extruder working. Settings 110% retrac speed/4mm, 100% flow, printing 185-195• with 100 fan speed.
Also when the nozzle has for example finished the bottom or the top layer in the corner of a square and has to move on the opposite corner to start the next layer is will scratch the infill making this enormous noise like printer is about to break down and you have the impression it has skipped a layer.
Anybody has some good advices now about abs printing? Will I be able to print without heated bed? Some options that can help?
[quote=“Lorenco”]Will I be able to print without heated bed? [/quote]The answer is clearly no. It will warp like hell.
You can find some tips in the [color=#408040]Wiki[/color].
You can reduce the flow to 75-80%. If your nozzle is scraping the infill or the surface it means there’s too much material deposited. Also avoid setting the infill% above 60%.
Im printing with 20% infill. Also extruder in eeprom is already at 150.00 (200 default)
And I’m printing at 85 flow. What you suggest that I should touch? Mb try ply with eeprom or flow?
Thanks in,advance