Hello, i’ve been printing with my new K8200, and so far i’m neutral, but the biggest problem i have is that the first layer doesn’t stick to the glass, the glass itself has small texture to it and it still doesn’t get the job done… any idea?
use blue painters tape or make a mixture 1/2 water + 1/2 white wood glue and put it on the glass plate and let it dry.
grtz
Hi tigox,
first check the adjustment of the Z home position (i.e. the endstop screw). With a very flat bed (e.g. a glass plate like in your case), the clearance between nozzle and bed surface can be very low, much lower than the 0.25 mm recommended in the manual. Bed levelling has to be good, of course.
Since the Z motor is switched off when not in use, you can turn the Z rod manually to adjust the height, e.g. while the skirt is printed. If you find that you have to adjust downwards (or upwards) all the time, correct the endstop screw accordingly. When the nozzle is too low, the lines are printed much wider than they should be and have rough edges, when it’s too high the edges are smooth, but the top of the line is round. In between there sould be a setting where the edges are still smooth, but the line is pressed into an oval or flat shape by the nozzle just enough to get the right width. The printed layer should then also be exactly as high as set in Slic3r.
Cheers,
kuraasu
[quote=“kuraasu”]Hi tigox,
first check the adjustment of the Z home position (i.e. the endstop screw). With a very flat bed (e.g. a glass plate like in your case), the clearance between nozzle and bed surface can be very low, much lower than the 0.25 mm recommended in the manual. Bed levelling has to be good, of course.
Since the Z motor is switched off when not in use, you can turn the Z rod manually to adjust the height, e.g. while the skirt is printed. If you find that you have to adjust downwards (or upwards) all the time, correct the endstop screw accordingly. When the nozzle is too low, the lines are printed much wider than they should be and have rough edges, when it’s too high the edges are smooth, but the top of the line is round. In between there sould be a setting where the edges are still smooth, but the line is pressed into an oval or flat shape by the nozzle just enough to get the right width. The printed layer should then also be exactly as high as set in Slic3r.
Cheers,
kuraasu[/quote]
Thank you 
i will try to calibrate it again
Cheers, i’ll post some results after i’ve made it
HAIR SPRAY just cheep hair spray is the best coating I’ve found so far tell everyone.
I’m using a 1/4 inch thick plate glass with no tape I just mist a light coating of white rain hair spray in a pump bottle and my troubles with parts not sticking are history just let part cool off and it pops right off. it will dry before bed gets to operating temp. TELL THE WORLD lol
Pritt will do the job as well:
- after gently rubbing the heated bed with the glue stick, non sticking parts are history
- after cooling off, the printed parts pop right off