Has anyone already tried to print the stand.stl file from object thingiverse.com/thing:52769 without support material?
I have tried without it and once the bottom 8 beams start to get printed after a few layers the PLA starts to curl upwards and the nozzle hits them resulting in skipping steps. This ruins the whole object. When printing it with support material there is just so much material to remove that it isn’t even worth it.
If anyone did print this with success what slic3r settings are used for it?
Ive tried everything Ive read all over the web to fight curling, but with only very limited success. Thin overhangs will curl using PLA pretty much no matter what I do. For the record, I added a second (ducted) fan, experimented with large extrusion temperature ranges, tried every setting in slic3r I could think off. The problem remains. Its not a problem on lower layers, a hot bed and good adhesion (blue tape) takes care of it there, but once you get 10mm or so up, it curls on small overhangs, no matter how slow I print or what I try.
If someone really has a solution, Id love to hear it, but for now Im using my fingers to bend back the curls during print. Either that, or using 0.4mm layer thickness, that also helps a lot, but obviously at the expense of print quality.
One of my favorite test objects that clearly exhibits the problem and where I risk the nozzle hitting the overhangs is this cointrap: thingiverse.com/thing:193941
Sometimes the pla coils upward, it sometimes is a sign of overcooling. Tweak the cooling settings in the slicer a bit so the print gets cooled a bit less.
I’ve done a ton of printing and was relatively new to PLA until recently.
I just could not for the life of me get the edges of the robohand parts to stop curling (thingiverse.com/thing:44150)
I tried double fans, higher temp, faster perimeters, lower multiplier, nothing worked with slight tweaking to these parameters
I had to increased the temp to 205! (for PLA I didn’t think it should go that high!) but again with two fans so that might affect it.
I might try the next part with one fan and see if thats too hot.
I think the point where the overhangs sag and look bad is probably the point where heating is too high or there is not enough cooling.
I think the key is getting it hot enough to completely melt it so it doesn’t try and return to its pre-stressed shape.
I’m cross posting at (forums.reprap.org/read.php?262,267088) the other best discussion on this ive found.
4MULE8 brings up this point in the reprap.org forum thread, but I have to go higher than the OP to get mine working.
Someone brought up too much cooling might cause this but I dont think thats it.
I’ve seen cooling on the first layer cause peeling, but not the same thing.
I originally started using 2 fans because I was printing threaded bolts and with only one fan, only one side had adequate detail
brim is an option in Slic3r that creates a kind of “enlarged” first layer like visible on the upper object. It improves sticking to the surface due to the larger area.
I am using the regular white paper glue in a stick “Pritt” from Henkel.
With a warming bed at 60 degrees on glass it is working without curling.
It is often difficult to remove the item.
Even without warming the bed it is working.
Philip
