Bumping an old thread here…
The LED flashing on power-up is a slight issue, but one that can be easily worked around. No need to change the PIC.
As for other ‘real world’ interfaces that output strange signals, consider the parallel (LPT port). Since the demise of the beloved ISA bus for which many prototype PC cards were available, one of the only options to hook up digital IO to a PC was to use the LPT port. Very well documented, and an industry standard interface…8 digital output ports and 5 digital input lines on a printer port. Just like the K8055, but without the analogue I/O.
However, when ‘Plug and Pray’ came along, using the port as a mission critical interface was no longer possible…during boot any Windows from W95 OSR2 upwards sends out signals on the port during boot to identify printers hooked up to the LPT port. Parallel port interfaces that worked perfectly fine on pre-95 OS’s started playing up with printer port VXD’s initialising during boot.
Things then changed when PC manufacturers started dropping ‘legacy’ COM and LPT ports in favour of USB. Systems which I originally controlled with an ISA interface and had to modify to operate from a printer port now needed to be reworked to operate with something else. 8 output, 5 input…the K8055 was the obvious choice for me.
I’m still using them to this day, for ‘quick and dirty’ prototyping, monitoring and control on industrial and commercial systems…cheap, reliable and easy to control with a PC. Yes, the LED flash can be a problem, but the simplest resolution is to hook up the USB to a port that is permanently powered. Even with the PC powered off, the +5vSB line powers the PC USB ports and the board stays live. I’ve read Inputs 1 and 2 (and registered counts on the counter)…powered the system off, come back a week later and fired up the computer, and not only does the LED not flash with a permanently powered board but the counts in the counter registers are preserved and even updated with no software running!
If that really is a problem, and you use a laptop or wish to disconnect the board and reconnect it, then there is a simple electronic workaround which I’ve tried and works for me.
Remove pin 9 (Gnd) of the output ULN2803A and connect it to the negative side of a 22uF 16v electrolytic capacitor. Connect the positive side of the capacitor to +5v. Connect Pin9 and the capacitor negative to Gnd Via a 2k2 resistor.
When the board is first powered up, the potential on the ground pin of the ULN2803 will be near enough +5v as the capacitor is almost a short circuit to +5v on power up. As the capacitor charges through the 1k resistor, the voltage across it reaches 5v, lowering the Pin 9 to near enough ground. This has the effect that, during power up, the two output pulses which would normally flash the LED are below the potential on Pin9 and hence do not get transferred to the outputs. Once the capacitor is charged, the board will work as usual.
Fortunately on the VM110, the ULN2803A’s are fully socketed, so this ‘fix’ works on these boards too.