I bought a extra Isolator guide and 2 new nozzles that i was thinking on using 1 as a spare and one of them i was thinking on drilling to something bigger to fiddle around with compound filaments like woodfill/bronzfill and so on and on. What do you guys suggest 0,4, 0,45 or 0,5. Im considering a middle thing at 0,45. Anyone have a good reason to alter my thinking?
// Marlark
I wish Velleman would offer different size nozzles, I’ve recently been printing with T-glase and would like to use a larger nozzle size (0.5mm perhaps) to try to increase the clarity of the printed parts. Unfortunately I don’t have access to the sort of equipment needed to drill one myself with the required precision.
I’d think 0.45 would probably be a good place to start, although I haven’t tried Woodfill myself. Perhaps if it works out you could start a little sideline selling drilled nozzles of various sizes to forum members 
I agree with you regarding if velleman could supply dif sizes. That would have been awesome. I have never drilled a nozzle before but sins it is 0,35 drilling it in segments up in size shouldnt be to hard. knock on wood there 
Personaly i would have liked to get hold of a 0,25mm one also but making a hole smaller is somewhat more complicated hehe
I wonder where Velleman is getting hold of their nozzles.
A nozzle kit could maybe be a product for them to supply size 0,25 and upward. I would buy a set
// Marlark
[quote=“Marlark”]I agree with you regarding if velleman could supply dif sizes. That would have been awesome. I have never drilled a nozzle before but sins it is 0,35 drilling it in segments up in size shouldnt be to hard. knock on wood there Personaly i would have liked to get hold of a 0,25mm one also but making a hole smaller is somewhat more complicated hehe
I wonder where Velleman is getting hold of their nozzles.
A nozzle kit could maybe be a product for them to supply size 0,25 and upward. I would buy a set
// Marlark[/quote]
Gonna check at work if we have such a small drill.
Just got my Walter Tritex drill bits home from OTD Tools where i bought them here in sweden. The sizes i got was 0,30mm, 0,35mm, 0,40mm, 0,45mm, 0,50mm, 0,55mm.
Tested first the 0,30mm and it went thru with ease in the nozzle hole top side down and then tried the 0,35mm and it turned out to get resistance so i screwed it around a little by hand and after a while it came thru. Next i decided to test 0,40mm and it found the hole easy enouph and went in a little but didnt want to go further by turning it manually so i used a little oil on it and put it in there again and then fastened it to a hand tool handle and turned slowly around and bingo went thru fairly easy. Considering testing it at this size and if need be go up in sizes.
// Marlark
Total newbie to this group and to additive-mfg. in general here. Greetings.
Our team just got a Vertex, we’re looking to use some metallic-filled PLA filament and the mfrs. suggest .5mm extruder nozzle.
This appears to be a custom-CNC machined part. Dang. Really hoped to be able to swap with existing parts, and while that looks pretty easy on the electronics side (Arduinos and Raspberry Pi have conquered the planet), it’s apparently not so easy on the mechanical side.
~LD
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“When I was a kid, they told me practice makes perfect.
Then, they told me nobody’s perfect, so I stopped practicing.”
–Stephen Wright
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What you could do is redesign the heaterblock so it can use the e3d nozzles. Reason is that brass is not a good idea to use for filaments that have compound mixtures. Reason is that the filament is so abrasive that it literally destroy the nozzle. It also solves something i have talked about before regarding a solution like the olson block that exist for the Ultimaker where the heaterblock is possible to be screwed on to the peek isolator and then the nozzle be screwed on to the heaterblock. If you where going todo something down that road i am defenetly game on
Was a little bored so i did a very fast drawing of what i mean 
The red is basecly the new heatblock. It is a little deeper then the original and then the e3d v6 nozzle (white) is screwed in the bottom hole in the block. That way you can change the nozzle on it between all the v6 types that exist in dif size and in dif material (brass, stainless steel, hardened steel)
You loose about 4 mm in term of build height.
I’m following this thread with interest, but a little confused. I always thought the only reason for larger nozzles was to print faster, in the traditional trade-off between speed and detail. If this is the case, I get the impression that the stock Vertex head has a 0.35 nozzle for a reason - it can barely support anything bigger. A large nozzle means more filament to melt in the same amount of time. I can barely keep my K8400 at 210C for stubborn PLA at sub-normal speeds without lowering the fans enough to risk the PEEK. How will you get filament to go through even faster for a larger nozzle and keep it from sucking the heat out of the hotend faster than it can generate it?
