I upgraded to this hot end a month ago and must admit its a huge improvement.
First thing first is calibrate the E steps, so when you ask for 50mm of filament you get 50mm filament. I think my E steps went from 600 to about 670. This never seemed to work with the original nozzle messing the prints up but corrected my issue of delamination with the E3d v6.
In slicer I would change the nozzle diameter to your new one (I had 0.4mm). Don’t forget to do this on the ABS setting too, I didn’t and when I tried ABS for the first time this weekend it was all messed up.
All other setting are as standard Velleman config.
Go ahead and do a bridge test with one of the downloadable files of the net, I was gobsmacked when I did my first trial with the new nozzle, it did a 99% perfect bridge so I didn’t need to improve it.
PLEASE remember to leave the fan running on the nozzle for at least 5 minutes after a print, or the heat with rise up the alloy part and jam your filament when you next use it.
That’s a good advice. Maybe that is one of the reasons some people face so much jams with this hotend.
Mine is running nearly perfectl now.
The E steps were calibrates first, just as you mentioned.
The settings work great. No ooze or overextrusion and perfect bonding!
The issues with e steps the stock Velleman hotend shows are caused by the Hotend design i think.
The filament gets molten iside the hotend in a very unprecise area, so it sometimes melts too much ans somtimes te few.
This causes blobs or misses in the print. (the 600 steps/mm setting seems to average that out a bit.)
Nozzle diameter also set to correct value.
I got each other Nozzle diameter they ship as a spare, so i will copy the settings for each nozzle diameter for easier use.
I would strongly suggest Velleman to ship their kit with this Hotend from stock. It’s just geat!
Anyway, i’d still like to fine tune my extruder heating, but if i try to run PID autotune Marlin always responds with a timeout.
What can i do to fix that?
Autotune always worked with the stock hotend.
May i have to tweak some firmware settings?
Forgot to say I reduced the retract in slicer to 1mm I think. No ooze with this new hot end.
I agree about the steps, the original Teflon tube heats up after 20 minutes and creates a lot of molten filament which must compress in there making it harder to control its flow and mass. You can see this if you remove the filament when changing colours, 15mm or so on the end is molten, the new one is about 3mm. My main reason for upgrading was the ooze issue and I am really happy with what I have now.
I tried a PID auto tune but my Repetier would shut it off when the it over heated (target temp was 190 and it would shoot past this up to 230+). The new heater is much more powerful and the auto tune couldn’t cope with this, it would print ok when it settles down from the initial start up but I wanted it to work good from the start.
This meant I had to update the firmware, the configuration_h file? dropping the power from 255 to about 180. Then I ran PID again and it worked so I could update the Eprom settings. Looking at the actual power now going to the heater its at 60% max but still warms up quicker than the old one, its also much more stable and reacts quicker when the cooling fan kicks in for bridging etc.
Took me a while to build up the confidence to do the firmware update but was really easy once I tackled it.
[quote]I tried a PID auto tune but my Repetier would shut it off when the it over heated (target temp was 190 and it would shoot past this up to 230+). The new heater is much more powerful and the auto tune couldn’t cope with this, it would print ok when it settles down from the initial start up but I wanted it to work good from the start.
This meant I had to update the firmware, the configuration_h file? dropping the power from 255 to about 180. Then I ran PID again and it worked so I could update the Eprom settings. Looking at the actual power now going to the heater its at 60% max but still warms up quicker than the old one, its also much more stable and reacts quicker when the cooling fan kicks in for bridging etc.
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I tried autotune as well and it always fails with timeout.
I’ll thry to reduce the heater prower in firmware now, maybe that will fix it.
Which setting did you change?
The overshoot results from powering the 12V heater cartridge by 15V as the velleman board does.
The stock heater seems to be rated at 15V. (or maybe 24V ?)
If you open up the firmware on the config_h tab is you will find the setting for the nozzle heater. I changed mine from 255 (max) to 150 which is 58% hence me getting about that on the power graph in Repetier.
I was on the V1 firmware and downloaded that one from this website, I didn’t bother going for the V2 firmware version. ‘If it isn’t broke don’t fix it’
@kaviros: the extruder is designed for 3 mm filament, so the filament path is easily wide enough for 1.75 mm filament. But that’s also the problem: the thin filament is much more flexible, and it has less guidance, so it is very likely that it bends and gets stuck between the hobbed bolt and the hotend.
If you replace the extruder with a version intended for 1.75 mm and groove mount (there are many printable extruder designs available), it should be possible.
@jaggifrank / David: you can use any fan nozzle you like, as long as it does not collide with the heater block. Since most heater blocks are roughly the same size, I have to admit there’s a large chance that nearly all fan nozzles meet this requirement. You can find many designs for suitable fan nozzles on Thingiverse and similar sites.
Cheers,
kuraasu[/quote]
Hello guys,
I have just installed the E3D-v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal (Direct) (12v) on my K8200 but i am facing a problem that i think it has to do with the original extruder - which has been designed for 3mm filament and not for 1.75mm. I detached the hotend from the extruder and i could realize 2 things: first, the extruder flow isn´t perfect, sometimes the filament escapes backwards, which makes me think that the hobbed bolt doesn’t “grab” the filament in a proper way as it worked with 3mm. The second aspect: i manually entered the filament into the hotend and everything went fine.
Has anyone of you faced this problem? Is there a way to correct this? (Assuming that these observations are correct…)
