I’m also having fun with my K8200 printer. But now i need some advice.
First, i’ve done the upgrade spindle K8204 and uploaded the new firmware and octopi.
Now i start to callibrate the printer but i’ve got some questions.
When i measure the z-axis movement then it is spot on the right distance of movement. But when i print a testcube of 10 mm height the i measure 10.4mm, and the same when i print a cube 20 mm height the i measure 20.4 mm.
Do i need to re-calibrate and only look at the printed object?
@first picture
on the right top (the 16 last layers), the corner start to grow and the size is bigger than 20mm @2nd picture
The same but on the bottom and this is the back site of the first picture.
Are there some tips haw i can try to finetune my printer.
Ok after some adjustments i’ve solved the height problem.
But now i’m still fighting with the stange corners, Is there a solution for?
And an other question, when i prehead the printhead the PLA starts to drip out of the printhead. (Original Velleman 0.5 mm printhead, extruder calibrated)
So when i start to print there is not enough PLA to start.
Final question, what settings in Slic3r do i need to set so that the bottem layer is completeley filed during printing, Now i see and feel the different tracks.
[quote=“Moondust”]
PLA starts to drip out of the printhead. (Original Velleman 0.5 mm printhead, extruder calibrated)
So when i start to print there is not enough PLA to start.[/quote]
easily fixed by letting slicer create a skirt of for example 3 loops this way you extrude a bit of filament before you start your object.
my settings are as followed: Skirt loops:3 distance 6 height 1 minimum extrusion 0
this can be set under ‘‘horizontal shells’’ bottom/top layers default is set to 3 layers.
PLA starts to drip out of the printhead. (Original Velleman 0.5 mm printhead, extruder calibrated)
So when i start to print there is not enough PLA to start.
[/quote]
easily fixed by letting slicer create a skirt of for example 3 loops this way you extrude a bit of filament before you start your object.
my settings are as followed: Skirt loops:3 distance 6 height 1 minimum extrusion 0
[/quote]
This part i’ve fixed by editing the gcode and start with extruding some extra filament.
But now i’m stuggling with the other problem.
In Slic3r i can’t find any setting for the first layer infill.
When the first is printed , the infill doens’t touch each other. There is a small space between each infill.
I have long since given up trying to get the Z axis calibrated to start.
I print directly on to really clean glass. (dishwasher then brief rub with dry scouring pad)
I print 2 or more loops starting slightly high and then tweak the z axis by rotating the threaded rod anti clockwise manually until the printed bead is flat and wide. If you go too far a very thin almost transparent layer will result - just row back slightly. This gives a mirror like finish and the adhesion is so good that I have to put the plate under a running tap to release the print. (if I try to remove without water the print will sometimes pull chips of glass from the plate)
I’ve measured the Z-homing and this is still 0.25mm.
The amount/lenght filament that i feed i have also checked and adjusted in the firmware.
Settings in Slic3r:
My print layer height is 0.2mm and the first layer is 125%.
First layer temp 185 all the rest 180.
Bed temp first layer 70 all the rest 68.
I use a glass plate to print on. And it sticked very good to the glass plate.
On the first picture you can see that at some points the layer don’t touch. But the height is ok, all the layers are right on top of each other.
The second picture is an example of the first layer where the infill doesn’t stick together.
The top layer has not this problem.
So i hope there is a solution in the settings of slic3r.
[quote=“Fafnir”]I have long since given up trying to get the Z axis calibrated to start.
I print directly on to really clean glass. (dishwasher then brief rub with dry scouring pad)
I print 2 or more loops starting slightly high and then tweak the z axis by rotating the threaded rod anti clockwise manually until the printed bead is flat and wide. If you go too far a very thin almost transparent layer will result - just row back slightly. This gives a mirror like finish and the adhesion is so good that I have to put the plate under a running tap to release the print. (if I try to remove without water the print will sometimes pull chips of glass from the plate)[/quote]
I also use this same technique. I transport my printer occasionally and it was getting out of calibration too often. Even with good z calibration it is still a good idea to observe and fine-tune the first layer to get good “squashing” of the bead.
@Moondust, I think you want your first layer to be thinner than the rest. Maybe try 75% instead of 125% for the first layer height?
[quote=“Dr. Vegetable”][quote=“Fafnir”]I have long since given up trying to get the Z axis calibrated to start.
I print directly on to really clean glass. (dishwasher then brief rub with dry scouring pad)
I print 2 or more loops starting slightly high and then tweak the z axis by rotating the threaded rod anti clockwise manually until the printed bead is flat and wide. If you go too far a very thin almost transparent layer will result - just row back slightly. This gives a mirror like finish and the adhesion is so good that I have to put the plate under a running tap to release the print. (if I try to remove without water the print will sometimes pull chips of glass from the plate)[/quote]
I also use this same technique. I transport my printer occasionally and it was getting out of calibration too often. Even with good z calibration it is still a good idea to observe and fine-tune the first layer to get good “squashing” of the bead.
@Moondust, I think you want your first layer to be thinner than the rest. Maybe try 75% instead of 125% for the first layer height?[/quote]
A thinner layer? Ok because i Always read that the first layer must be more than the rest.
I’ll try it.
